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Andrew your photobucket photo is missing - displays as just a gray box, but nice SS396 before it. :) Your third link is broken with an "unknown error".

Maybe type up a detailed process for others to follow.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The picture shows the module opened, you can see the IGBT (part number IRGS14C40LPBF). The fault was no spark. I measured with a digital multimeter, negative lead body gnd or neg battery terminal. Positive lead to the -neg of the coil. When you insert a piece of paper between the two posts of the unilite module it should be the around 12 volts (whatever you current battery voltage is). Remove the paper it will drop the voltage to betwen 1.5-2volts and the coil will fire a spark. If this does not happen i would suspect that the IGBT is blown.
Remove module from distributor and clean off the heat paste. (use long nose pliers to squeeze tab on pin in connector to allow pin removal) On the underside of the module, i just used a drill bit by had to remove the two securing posts a little to enable the cover to be opened. I found this one was shorted between the two legs on the IGBT(used diode check function). To remove, cut both legs and use a soldering iron to heat and remove. Install a new IGBT with aid of soldering iron.
Test module again. If okay install back into distributor, use heat paste. (I sealed the cover on the module with a little super glue)Feed the pins through distributor and open up the tab on the pin that was squeezed close and then install back into plug.

If the IGBT is damage. You will probably see it is cracked and it should smell like burnt plastic

The IGBT only cost me $6 plus freight. It is worth a try if you have an old defective Unilite module

I would also recommend the use of the ballast resistor with the distributor and the + coil connected to the load side. Also connect the r terminal of the starter to the load side, to provide full battery voltage when starting.

 

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Thanks Andrew.
Making this a sticky.

Brian
 

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Usually, these modules fail because someone mis-advised a user to run them without any resistor/resistor wire in place, on full battery voltage4s.

Uni-Lite modules want to run on voltages between 6.50 and 9.50 volts, no higher. The way they like is to use a STOCK coil with STOCK resistor in place to the coil, then, the MOPAR .60 ohm resistor between the coil + feed and red Uni-Lite input wire, double resisting the setup.

Over voltage feeding a Uni-Lite will do nothing but blow it up, proven time and time again. These units do not drive any "perf" coil over what a dead stock coil will do, and they do not like excessive plug gaps, they fail when the gaps get above .035 maximum.

Uni-Lite units are the best drop-in units there are, but, they need to be resisted correctly to 'live long and prosper'.
 

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Did you T/S this in the car or on the bench? If on the bench a power and ground wiring diagram would be appreciated much. I need to check the Unilite I picked up.
 

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If you have a Unilite and its been a problem blowing modules and still blows them after installing the inline surge suppressor Mallory sells. You CAN replace the unilite module with a Pertronics module and do away with the super sensitive unilte module. Pertronics sells a conversion for the unilites and it works like a charm.

The Mallory module is too sensitive to grounds and transient voltages in my opinion. Even with the right resistor. The fact that Mallory came out with a "surge suppressor" for them tells me they know they have issues. If they require a surge suppressor then it should be included with the distributor and NOT sold separately. IMHO

http://autoplicity.com/products/233...o4&network=g&gclid=COSX4vaZkcECFa1m7AoddGsArQ
 

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Andrew J
on your link which part is (part number IRGS14C40LPBF) your link shows 2 but don't see that number on link?????????
 
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