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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have long thought about converting my choke to a simple manual choke.

With my engine build I have moved forward a bit beyond the "thought". :geek:

I purchased this Doorman conversion kit.

choke conversion by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

Link:
Choke and Throttle Conversion Kit | 55101 | Choke Conversion Kit | Dorman Products

I'm just today getting into it. The first thing I see is using this kit there is no modification of the carb or my current electric choke mechanism. I'll be able to simply remove this kit and install my electric choke just like it always was ... Should I choose to ever do that. ;)

While working my firewall I created the provision for the cable.
Choke firewall grommet and cable by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

If there is any interest in this little project, I can post the process as I go. ;)
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
First thing, remove the electric choke spring mechanism. Keep the screw clamps, you need them.
DSC_3150 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

Set the control lever / post into the correct shell from the kit.
DSC_3156 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

The two prong "fork" in the lever slides directly into the unaltered mechanism inside the electric choke housing.
DSC_3153 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

Catch the fork in the inner mechanism as you install the shell into position. Secure it with the existing screw clamps.
DSC_3158 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

The choke can now be fully controlled with the shaft extending out of the shell.

Install the actuator lever on the post.
DSC_3159 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

As far as the Carburetor itself ... that's it!

The kit provides some hardware to anchor the cable behind the choke housing.
DSC_3160 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

I won't be using much more of the kit aside from the cable itself.

I'm more interested in these three unused holes in the carb. they are in a perfect position to be attachment points for a cable shield anchor.
DSC_3161 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

These unused holes are 3/16" and I believe I can tap them to take machine screws to neatly secure a mount for the cable shield anchor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Looks like a #12 bottom tap should handle threading those holes in the carb.

Then I'll fabricate my bracket.
 

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68 RS L30 AA 749 Fred Gibb Chevrolet
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I had manual choke for a while. Had it come out in the cig lighter location, with lighter knob to pull from. Looked factory, lol but dang thing pulled too hard for my liking and went back to electric. As you know, need to keep the cable as straight as possible.

Good luck, that's a neat conversion kit, I've never seen before...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Update:

My bottom tap arrived. I tapped the holes successfully. I then discovered the bad news.

#12 - 28 screws are unicorns. I need two #12 -28 X 1/2" screws and some places want about $28.00 for a pack of five ... pretty crazy. I'll stop by McFadden Dale hardware and see what they have on Monday. they are one of the "go-to" places for this stuff in Las Vegas.

I also have my bracket fabricated. It will obviously mount to the top and bottom screw holes in the carb (pictured above)

View from the rear.
DSC_3165 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

DSC_3166 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

The clamp underneath and out of view.
DSC_3169 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

Cable coming in through the small hole to help control it.
DSC_3171 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr


This is the view one will have from the engine bay looking in on it with the cable installed.
DSC_3170 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Larry, Contact this place.
Thanks Al. :)

It did come down to "Fastener Stop".

These #12 - 28 X 1/2" long machine screws (of any variety) are not available anywhere in Las Vegas that I can find.

I ordered 10 screws at 29 cents each plus $8.00 shipping from PA. Will be coming my way tomorrow.

I called and talked to a guy. From talking to him it sounds like this is probably a family business. Very friendly and helpful.

I appreciate the guidance there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
One more step completed:

The control is mounted.

Quite a bit of reflection and glare going on in the PIC. :(

I know some of you will cringe at this ... but here it is.

IMG_3451 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

I used a plastic tubular spacer I have a few of laying around. I cut it on the diagonal to get the angle to allow the control to function level with the car/earth, as opposed to following the slope of the dash.

Angle cut spacer-tube on the front side and also the rear with the nut behind clamping it all in place. From the front you would be hard pressed to even realize it is there ... it's pretty much invisible to the eye.

The path of the cable is a sweeping "S" curve behind the dash, through the firewall, then on out to the carburetor. The plunger pushes and pulls will great ease.

Next up ... I really do not like this cable connector out at the choke.

DSC_3159 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

I'll have to re-fabricate this thing to get a simpler, more durable and user-friendly connection there.

Here it is hooked up as intended by Dorman ... well with my custom anchor bracket (clamped on since I'm still waiting for those #12 fine thread screws).
IMG_3454 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

It functions flawlessly. I really question the durability of that brass pin though.

DSC_3176 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
All done:

Final - Final here, unless someone has comment or questions.

Which appears unlikely ;)

Choke Closed:
IMG_3463 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr
IMG_3456 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr
IMG_3457 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

Choke Open:
IMG_3461 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr
IMG_3460 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr
IMG_3459 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

To set the choke, always use a light touch on the choke plunger.

Gently pull out on the plunger ... depress the throttle to the floor. As you release the throttle the plunger will pull on out a tiny bit more ... setting the fast idle.

With the fast idle engaged you can now adjust the choke plate to any position you want (fully open to fully closed) using the plunger.

Fast idle will remain engaged, just like usual ... until you depress the throttle again to release it.

If you forget to open the choke fully ... the engine will remind you ... when it wants more air than you are giving it. :cry:

As crazy as it may seem to most of you; this is a dream come true for me. :D

Edited to add: On start-up for just a moderately cool day ... Maybe I don't care about the fast idle and I only need to richen the mix a bit for a few seconds to get going. I can do that with just a tiny pull on the plunger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks boyd66k20.

The way I went about it required some fabrication either from scratch or of the kit. Some may not be up to all that.

One big take-away for me was, while the #12 screws are perfect for my bracket mounting to the carb, stick to the 12-24, not the 12-28.

12-24s are not very common at the usual stores, but the 12-28s are really, really tough to find. I'm so happy that Al had a source for them. The screws should be here in a couple of days ... then I will truly be finished.
 

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1969 Chevy Camaro and 1968 Pontiac Firebird
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Looks good. I began installing one of these on my firebird. Being universal I began shortening it so it wouldn't bind. I got close before other projects got in the way and I stopped. I want to mount mine to the column out of sight if I can.
 
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