Team Camaro Tech banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
630 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm getting my master cylinder in the car finally. Eliminating the power booster.

I purchased my master cylinder from CPP. It did not come with any real instructions for installation.

Should I be installing the new rod on the pedal before I install the master cylinder? It's seeming so in that I have the master cylinder bolted up and really can't seem to get the rod in.

Secondly, I was provided an 1.5" long insert that fits in behind at the end of the bore of the master cylinder. I assume I need that in the bore to accept the end rod.

Input appreciated. CPP is closed so I can't call them tonight. ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
630 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Al, the rod seems too long as things currently sit. It also appears the hole in the pedal lever is lower in elevation than the master cylinder bore, meaning the rod will be entering the master at a bit of an upward slant. If this is the case then that insert would minimize the depth the rod is required to enter the bore.

Side note: The booster mounted at a slant slightly upward which would account for this upward slant of the rod ... the master now mounts to the firewall pretty level.

I could pretty easily thread the rod on down further and cut it off to length to accommodate the insert.

I'll pull the master off the firewall and get the rod in place then evaluate from there.

CPP should be open today for some guidance as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
630 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Al. I see an upper hole, it has the pin and the return spring in it now. I go look closer at that. As you say, that higher pivot will solve the angle problem.

Your rod there looks like what I have. I ordered a new rod from CPP. I decided to re-use my attachment/adjuster which looks just like yours.

The rod for my power booster seemed to be integral to the booster ... not easily removeable.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
630 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Thanks Al. The problem I am having now is not enough room between the pedal lever and the side bracket to fit the pin in.

Without the rod attachment it will go, but with the rod attachment I can't get enough angle on the pin to insert it.

I removed the brake light switch since the further back to the return position the lever is I gain a bit of additional clearance ... but not enough it seems. Any tricks I might use?

Is your pin inserted from the clutch pedal side?

Edited to add: Got it! I pulled the retainer off the pedal assembly pivot and moved the clutch pedal over a little. This broke the brake pedal loose to swing over far enough to allow me to get the pin in. Pushed the clutch pedal back in position and install the retaining clip ... good to go. :)
 

·
Retired
Joined
·
26,641 Posts
Larry, Yes the rod needs to be installed before the master. You may or may not need the
1-1/2" insert. It depends on the depth of the m/c bore and amount of adjustment you have on the pedal rod.
The bullet looking insert is for when using a power brake booster.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
630 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
The bullet looking insert is for when using a power brake booster.
Thanks for the confirmation on that ;) ... I was coming to that conclusion based on the one I pulled out..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
630 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
On the rod length adjustment ... I suppose I just extend it out until the slack is gone?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
630 Posts
Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Well, I have it in. Had to fight one of the fittings a bit, but it was not a big fight.

It's a 1" bore, not as small as was recommended here, but is what CPP recommended.

After one short test drive ... the brakes will stop the car well, especially if the brakes are pumped a bit.

I was getting a slight pull to the right at first, but a little driving seemed to equalize that out.

I'll say the pedal feels real squishy to me. BUT ... I say that as a guy that has been driving the car every day for two months with a dead power booster. Talk about hard brakes! I'm not sure if I need to do some more bleeding or if it's just ME.

I'll drive it for a week and see how things work out.

I'll say with certainty, the power brakes are truly not necessary on these cars in order to have good stopping ability. These four wheel manual disc brakes are indeed doing the job well.

DSC_2309 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
13,978 Posts
You need to bleed the brakes. Should not feel squishy or need pumping at all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
630 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
I'll be doing a little more work on the brakes. They work for now, so I'll drive it to and from work.

I want to clean up the steel tube routing from the front brakes ... it's a bit wayward and gangly looking IMO. This will require some more cutting, bending and flaring. I also have new shorter flex hoses coming for the front.

Then I notice one of my rear calipers is leaking a bit, so I ordered a new caliper for that as well.

Everything should be here by the end of next week. While I might knock out some of this along the way before then, it won't be complete for a couple of weeks.

Oh and yes I did bench bleed the master. I'd guess my problem bleeding is with the rear brakes ... I'll sort that out with the new caliper.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top