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Discussion Starter #1
OK here is what I did-- I bought a 70 corvette 1" bore manual brake master cylinder hooked it to a 11" Delco moraine power brake booster, plumbed through a disk/disk proportion valve. I have adapted 4-wheel disk brakes from a 01 LS1 camaro. Im still running the plumbing right now on all of this on my 67 camaro.

Question is: Will this combo all work??????

Thanks!
 

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The manual master has a different plunger depth and won't work with the power booster...
Actually, the 68-76 vette as well as the 1st gen camaro used the "deep pushrod hole" master cyl for both manual and power brakes, so the m/c bolts up just fine (assuming "stock" style camaro booster).

By my math, the 1" bore M/C should work well from a pedal effort standpoint, only question is the prop valve. I prefer adjustable valves since any time you mess with the CG height or thr relationship between the front/rear brake clamping force/pressure relationship, you move the "optimum" bias curve. (basically, there is no "universal" prop valve for all "disc" systems or all "drum" systems). BUT, if you already have it plumbed, I'd certainly run it. After you get it bedded in, just do a couple careful stops to make sure the rears don't lock up before the fronts... You may be "close enough" with the prop valve that it's not an issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys, As far as the rod goes, I actually received both the long and the short with the new booster. The longer rod is the one I used. Im hoping its long enough?

Im going to have to try the disk/disk valve I have, because I bought a prebent stainless line kit setup for this application.

The disk/disk valve I have now is from MBM and the part# is PV4 I think. Its suppose to be a aftermarket GM replacement

Lets say that valve doesn't work perfectly--can I leave it and add a adjustable valve in line after it ? or will I have to remove it completely before adding a adjustable proportion valve?

Thanks again!
 

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If you already have the prop valve and line set, I'd certainly run it. It'll most likely be close enough and lock the fronts up first, which is what you want for stability. I just tend to overthink/overengineer stuff, so I like the adjustable valves.

If you do have issues with the rears locking first (and you don't have air in the front lines or some other problem causing it) I wouldn't reccomend installing a second prop valve in series with the on that's already there. I've read about some folks with some really special systems doing this and although it will reduce the pressure output to the rear, it can do some really weird things (or so I've read). Most brake shops also reccomend against this. You may be able to keep the "block" in place and gut/remove the proportioning component, then install an adj. valve in the rear line.

But all that said, I think you'll be "close enough" with the off-the shelf part. Just use some caution on those first test stops "just in case".
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If you already have the prop valve and line set, I'd certainly run it. It'll most likely be close enough and lock the fronts up first, which is what you want for stability. I just tend to overthink/overengineer stuff, so I like the adjustable valves.

If you do have issues with the rears locking first (and you don't have air in the front lines or some other problem causing it) I wouldn't reccomend installing a second prop valve in series with the on that's already there. I've read about some folks with some really special systems doing this and although it will reduce the pressure output to the rear, it can do some really weird things (or so I've read). Most brake shops also reccomend against this. You may be able to keep the "block" in place and gut/remove the proportioning component, then install an adj. valve in the rear line.

But all that said, I think you'll be "close enough" with the off-the shelf part. Just use some caution on those first test stops "just in case".

Thanks a ton!!
 
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