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Discussion Starter #1
After trying to salvage a hacked up light harness to my 68, I hooked up the battery and fried the wire from the battery to the alt.(internal). It didnt affect any of the red wiring going to the horn relay or starter but completely melted the red wire from the battery to the junction and the red wire to the alternator? Serves me right for not putting a fusible link from the battery to the junction. Nevertheless, I would like to fire the engine to see if it runs and track down the electrical gremlins there later. Can I simply run a 10 gauge red from the battery through a fusible link to the juntion, then run a temporary 10 gauge red straight to the horn relay to crank the engine up? I would assume that if something is still not right, it will fry the fusible link on the horn relay heading out to the fuse box?
 

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you'll want to remove the remnants of that alternator wire and leave the alternator disconnected, but yeah, that sounds like a safe plan.
 

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Regardless whether you had a fusible link in it or not, wire would have burned up any way.

I would replace the burnt wire, disconnect the alt, as it probably has internal damage or the insulator for the B+ stud is broke, and run the engine as it. you could hook up an external battery charger while running to do any breaking in or other stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I took the red 10 gauge alternator wire off the junction and hooked up the battery and everything was cool. I had lights and power to start the car. I took the alt to have it tested and it was ok. I figured everything was good, ran a new red from the junction to the alt and when I hooked up the battery, the fusible link at the battery and the battery itself started to smoke and sizzle. How could this be if the alt is fine? I have the battery negative connected to a bolt that the alt is mounted to the engine with. Does that matter? Is the test lying to me?
 

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How is your grounds?

Your battery is connected to a bolt on the chassis? Or engine?

I had this trouble once and I ran a braided strap from the motor to the chassis, tapped the hole and torqued it down but good. I did the same from transmission to chassis too.

After that, no more problems.

It also made it to where my starter ran better. Sometimes the the starter would smoke and I could never figure out why. I added those very solid grounds and it seemed to do the trick.
 

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Bad grounds will certainly cause problems, but not burned wires. Burning wires are a sign of a direct short to ground somewhere, so the grounds must be good to carry that much current. It's true that bad grounds can lead to smoke as a result of heating at the point of the bad connection. But for a main power feed to burn up like that something is serously shorted.

Wheezer, are you saying that if the engine is not running that everything is fine, but once it's started things start to burn up? I suppose the alternator could be over charging...but dang I wouldn't think it would have enough oumph to burn wires like that.

You might try the old test lamp trick. Disconnect the negative cable and insert a test lamp between the cable and the negative post. Try to isolate things that cause the lamp to glow. I'm begining to think your short is in the IGN power source which would make it misbehave only when the key is switched on.
 
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