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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all.........I just fired up the big block for the first time,its been mounted and toped up with oil and water for a couple of days,but ive noticed the oil has gone very very milky...obviously water.The thing is it wasnt blowing water out of the radiator so i'm pickn the head gaskets are ok
what did happen is when i fitted the alloy manifold there was 4 "tag" type parts on the manifold that i had to grind down a little for it to seat properly onto the gaskets....im wondering if the manifold isn't seated and water is leaking past the gaskets??? is this possible
Gav
 

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Quite often, water will seep past the head bolts/studs and may take a couple of heat cycles to seal up. This will happen with both GM's sealing compound and Loctite's Teflon paste. Scary at first, it may be nothing to worry about.

You can always run the engine up to temp, then shut it down and listen. Even removing a valve cover may show you water/steam from the head bolts/studs.
Let it cool and then do your retorque proceedure while you're at it.

Get under the car and crack the pan bolt. If you get more than an ounce or two of water, I'd say you have a problem. Water is heaviest and if there is any volume of it, it will flow out first in quantity.
 

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Bubbles in the radiator would point to a crack or head gaskets also.

Another check to see what cylinder it is ... look at your spark plugs.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok....theres no bubbles in the radiator,the milky oil on the dipstick seemed to raise in level very quick when i topped up the radiartor today before firing it up again...thats why im wondering if its the intake gaskets....if i pressure tested the cooling system,this should tell me its leaking but how would i know where from??? the motor is "just s good runner" and not reconditioned....will this make a difference to the water in the studs theory??
Thanks gav
 

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if i pressure tested the cooling system,this should tell me its leaking but how would i know where from???
Easy.
Continually lower the cooling system's water level while pressurizing the system until no more water is lost.
As I mentioned earlier, you will see water at the pan bolt very quickly.
When you stop seeing water there, that's when you know the leak is just above the water level.

I used a "jiggler" syphon hose to accuarately remove water at the radiator tank, and lowered the level below the intake, but still above the heads. Then used my Stant preesure tester to pressurize. That's when I found the water had stopped showing up at the pan bolt.
I then removed the intake and found the leak. What a relief.. I had a mate's wedding to do with the car the next day!
 

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You said "alloy" manifold, but did not mention the gasket type you installed.

Many replacement gaskets are too thick/resilient to be used with an aluminum intake (the allowable intake bolt torque is way too little to properly crush the gaskets). Most aluminum intakes come with a recommended gasket part number in the installation instructions; for example, the Edelbrocks I have installed recommend a Print-O-Seal gasket or equivalent.

I use good old GM fiber gaskets on my engines now, having learned the hard way when the Fel-Pro Blues were installed on my 327 in the 68, causing a massive vacuum leak I could not find. Same issue could cause your coolant leaks as well...
 

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What about the issue if the block has been decked, that changes the geometry of the V where the intake fits. I am assuming when he said he fired it for the first time, it is a rebuild.

alan
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi....not a re-build,just a fresh import from 'your place to mine" :).....(im in New zealand)
i think ive found the water issue,i am using felpro blue gaskets as they are the best we can get "down under"....i pulled the motor again today...i dropped the sump and rear main/oil pump and the bearings are worn and rear seal is hard as plastic
the bearings are std size and the crank and thrust is perfect so i guess a set of bearings and a pump will do
Any recomendations on a pump??? hi volume or not hi volume?? that is the question
Thanks Gav
 

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Good gut feeling on removing engine and inspecting the crankcase.
Standard volume pump would be fine.

Tip: remove the relief valve and polish it with crocus cloth, then reassemble. This action will give you a steady timing mark.
 

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Regarding the intake manifold gaskets, what heads do you have?

There are 2 or 3 choices, the FelPro blue "O-ring" type and the Felpro Blue Stripe. If you have Edelbrock's Performer RPM heads, use GM 12366985.



Guess which ones I'll never recomemend or use again?;)

Also, if your block and/or heads have been milled or decked, have your intake machine accordingly. This will help the gaskets seal a lot.

High Volume pump, because more oil is always better than less. Actually, it's more for the slight oil pressure increase in the 0-60psi range (below the pump's pressure relief setting).
 
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