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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone make a kit?

Does anyone know anything about GLA tubs? I understand they do not require the cutting of the frame rails. I would love to know more, however the only info about them comes from other forums and no link to any site or anything. I'm running the Chassisworks G-link and I would love to mini tub my car, I just don't want to cut into the frame.

Any suggestions?
 

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You can easily fit a 10" rim by just moving the inner wheel wells in. It's much less costly and you wouldn't have to minitub the car or cut the frame rails. I did both. I originally moved them in and ran a 15x10 with a 5.0 backspace . After using the dse tubs it allowed me to go to a15x12 rim. I narrowed my rear enough to be able to play with the back spaces. I am currently running a 15x10 with a 4.50 back space. So what I'm trying to say is. If you can live with the 10 just move the inners in. It's much less expensive and not a hole lot of fab work. Originally when moved the inners in I just cleaned off the undercoat and drilled out the factory spot welds. After I moved them in I made a filler piece out of sheet metal. Seam sealed and under coated. I also had to remove the trunk lid supports on the wheel wells. No big deal. I just re welded after. The rear seat needed no alteration and fit right back in. My car was also a leaf spring car so I moved those in as well and put a narrowed fuel tank in.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Good call! That's most likely what I will do is just move them in to the frame rails.

You can easily fit a 10" rim by just moving the inner wheel wells in. It's much less costly and you wouldn't have to minitub the car or cut the frame rails. I did both. I originally moved them in and ran a 15x10 with a 5.0 backspace . After using the dse tubs it allowed me to go to a15x12 rim. I narrowed my rear enough to be able to play with the back spaces. I am currently running a 15x10 with a 4.50 back space. So what I'm trying to say is. If you can live with the 10 just move the inners in. It's much less expensive and not a hole lot of fab work. Originally when moved the inners in I just cleaned off the undercoat and drilled out the factory spot welds. After I moved them in I made a filler piece out of sheet metal. Seam sealed and under coated. I also had to remove the trunk lid supports on the wheel wells. No big deal. I just re welded after. The rear seat needed no alteration and fit right back in. My car was also a leaf spring car so I moved those in as well and put a narrowed fuel tank in.
 

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Not for nothing but if you are going to do it yourself and have to cut your floor, trunk pan, deck lid hinge brackets and rear seat support brackets anyway - why not cut your frame rails and move them inboard? Not like it is really that much more work - just saying....
 

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Much more cutting and prep for the dse tub installation .
I misread your post. Didn't realize that you were relocating the stock inner wheel housing. I agree with that! I didn't use the dse kit on mine - my 4-link kit came with generic mini tubs that I had to trim to fit. Overall it was rather easy but very labor intensive to move everything inboard. I was also replacing my entire trunk pan when I sectioned in my frame rails so it was easy to get to. Since I went with 4-link, I didn't have to fuss with relocating the leaf springs:D
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Great info guys, Thanks! This should be somewhat easy, just time consuming. The snow just started coming down here, so that will give me the chance to get more work done in the garage.
 

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I imagine you already know that you need to relocate your upper shock mounts to the inside of the frame rails even if you only mini tub up to the frame.

I too mini tubed just up to the frame rails. When I cut the old inners out I left 2 inches of them intact and bought new stock tubs and mig welded them in. Cut 1" out of the floor and bent a 1" flange to weld the new inners too.

I have also seen 2" mini tub inners sold but can't recall where.
 

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A buddy of mine did this by like above, cut the inner well moved over 2" to the frame, and welded in a 2" strip to fill the gap. (this is the short version)
 
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