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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
All,

You have been extremely helpful in critiquing the bumblebee strip on my 67.

A few more questions:

1)I was checking out the car more closely. Noticed that the passenger side bottom fender bolt and captive nut is very misaligned with the body. See pics 1 and 2. Driver side is aligned with the body hole perfectly. Is this passenger side alignment "outrigger" a normal process for aligning the fenders? The car was not like this before. If i were to align the fender in the hole like the left side, Im guessing that would throw the panel alignment off.

How can i fix this?

2)The passenger side door/fender gap is a very even 3/16" up and down the entire door. Its ever so slightly larger up by the windshield/cowl. However, the drivers side cowl/top gap is 3/8th"!! the middle door gap is approx 1/4" and the very bottom is slightly less than 3/16th".

Is it possible to increase the gap at the bottom, while decreasing the gap at the top/near cowl, by "rotating" fender around with more shims at the front of the fender? Travelling "clockwise" if you will. Does that make sense?

thanks folks! I really appreciate the knowledge on this board!!

As always, additional information is appreciated!!
 

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Al - Waterloo, Iowa
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A few questions to start with so we have a better understanding of the issues. Was all sheet metal installed and adjusted prior to painting? Are you doing the assembly or is this how the painter returned the car to you? It appears as though the backsides of the panels are covered with buffing compound. Get it cleaned up. You don't want it to adhere to the panels long term. The left side is going to take door and fender adjustment IMO and some give and take on final alignment. On the right side if you can get the lower bolt to grip the fender w/o damage then it will be ok. It also looks like your installing wheel well molding and scratching the paint in the process. Was the molding fit prior to paint. I think preparation is being a problem here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
He took the car to metal, where i assume (incorrectly??) that all the metal was gapped.
The car was returned to me like this.

I was going to clean all of that up anyway but now ill do so sooner.

Moldings were bought and installed by painter after paint.

Are you saying that the driver side might have to go to bare metal and re-gapped and repainted? Or can shims get me where i want to be?

Again, i believe he gapped everything prior to paint. I wasnt there every step of the way though.

This guy came highly recommended and his work has always been great. kinda bummed that mine needs all this extra love to get there.

thank you sir!!
 

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Al - Waterloo, Iowa
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So it was returned assembled. Take back to him. It's his business and should know wth he's doing. No, the drivers side shouldn't need to be taken back to metal. The fender and the door just need to be properly adjusted. I'm starting to think this guy is a hack considering the nose stripe problems along with these new problems. Good luck.
 

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It’s unwise to look at fender to door alignment in isolation imho. Start with the door to quarter and rocker alignment and work your way forward. How are those gaps and is everything flush?

Don
 
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Al - Waterloo, Iowa
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Don is correct on the quarter to door gap and I should have mentioned that in my earlier reply. Hell, I didn't even catch the inner fender is not installed as Scott pointed out. I think there's a whole lot more to this than what we are currently informed of. Post more pics from further back showing all of the gaps, etc. Basically we need a walk around.
 

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It's hard to tell with pictures, but the sheet metal might have been stamped too small, out of dimension, and then bent on the brake press wrong. In which case you're probably looking at replacement, match the paint -senario... hope I'm wrong!
 
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