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Discussion Starter #1
I purchase a Motive Products Power Bleeder 105. I understand it is best to anchor the adapter to the master cylinder with a c-clamp instead of the J hooks supplied. Now the question I have is how do you prevent brake fluid from running everywhere when you remove the adapter after you release the pressure and remove the adapter. Like all of us I don't want brake fluid on painted or plated surfaces. So far Motive has not responded to my question.

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Are you referring to the aluminum, maroon (if still the same color) piece that installs on top of the master ??? I have the same Power Bleeder and I didn't have any problems when done. I did use rags as a precaution.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The adapter is aluminum. I understand they went to aluminum to prevent leaking. I just seems to me if fluid is in the adapter and level with the top of the master cylinder it will leak when adapter removed. I plan on using an old bath towel to absorb fluid that leaks when adapter removed. One idea I had was to go back to the bleeders in the rear and front and drain fluid after pressure release at master cylinder (like gravity bleed)but that is a lot of trouble .

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John, It will not be bad at all because the brake fluid level will drop in the MC after bleeding the brakes. Just use some rags, it will not be that bad.
 

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I had no issue with fluid when removing it, release the pressure and have the towel right there and remove it with the towel and right away to the bench.

Keep in mind that if you have the original pull off valve under the master the power bleeder will not work, you must manually bleed them because that valve holds off pressure to the front brakes until something like 40#s, the power bleeder barely gets to 10#s. It works perfect for the rears and is the best to change the fluid in the lines.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I understand the metering valve (hold off valve, etc) has a plunger in the back of the valve. When this is depressed you can bleed the front brakes with the pressure bleeder with 10 psi. This overrides the 40 psi pressure in the valve. This is really a good description of the various valves, etc on Camaros. Camaro Brake Valves.

Thanks everyone for the comments on the fluid. I feel much better know. Hopefully weather will cooperate.
 

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I've used the Motive bleeder for several years on different cars with good success. I also have the 1105 with the rectangular aluminum pressure adapter for the old style master cylinders. I just bled the brakes on my '69 yesterday and got a perfect pedal. i've never had any issues with the hold off valve, have not depressed the button on the back and am able to bleed the front brakes without issue. I've purchased an additional OEM brake reservoir cap for some of the other cars I've done and made an adapter for the Motive with the OEM cap with good success with one caveat - I've always had to use a C-clamp with all of them. The J bolts and chains will not provide enough pressure to prevent leakage, but I'd use them with the C-clamp. On your Camaro be sure the rear bale (or whatever you call it) nearest the booster that holds the lid on your MC doesn't get under the Motive cover or it won't seal. I also put a very light coating of silicone grease on the rubber seal to help it seal. Every time I've used it without the C-clamp it leaks, with the C-clamp no problem. I'd suggest putting something on the floor in case you have a leak. By all means release the pressure by unscrewing the pump from the brake fluid tank on the Motive before you remove the MC cover or you'll have a terrific mess and probably some ruined paint depending upon how far it blows brake fluid over your car. When you release the pressure fluid transfers back from the MC to the tank so when you remove the adapter the fluid is right at the brim of the MC reservoir. The fluid tube from the Motive tank to the MC does not have to be full, it will take what it needs. Also, before you load the Motive tank test the seal by pumping it up without fluid in the tank to whatever pressure you're going to use and make sure it holds the pressure for a minute or so. Don't let the tank run out of new fluid or if you keep bleeding the pressure will eventually force the fluid out of the MC and you'll have to remove it and bench bleed it. Remove the old fluid from the MC before you start and fill with new fluid. You may already know all this so don't take offense if I'm telling you what's already obvious.
 

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Could drop a ping pong ball in each well to bleed and then snatch the top off when done. Probably good to always keep towels/rags under the cylinder to catch the little bit that always gets away.
 

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That's a really creative idea! I like it.
 
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