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In the process of swapping out my 2.73 peg-leg 8.2" rear for a 3.73 8.5" and figure now is a good time to clean up/replace the F/R brake lines. So I picked up the 2-piece F/R line set from NPD and I'm looking at relocating my SSBC/Wilwood adjustable prop valve down the stock location next to the sub-frame.

Problem1) -- The adjustment knob is larger in diameter than the block/base of the valve, so if I mount the block tight to the subframe, I won't be able to turn the knob. I could either shift the valve towards the ground so the knob sticks out/clears the subframe (then I'm worried about catching road debris and ripping the thing off) OR I can shim the valve out 1/4" or so from the subframe for clearance OR I can try to modify/remove the adjustment knob.

Problem2) -- Hmmm. How am I going to mount this thing to the subframe? Right now I'm thinking just drill and tap for 1/4-20 bolts and bolt her down.

Since I think other folks have done this, curious if anyone has any other "good" or "geez don't do what I did" suggestions.

Thanks.
-T
 

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I think your on the right track, space the adjustable prop valve away from the frame so the knob stays protected from the ground. And just drill and tap the holes for it, not much force on the thing and the frame is thick enough.
 

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Are you able to remove the knob and perhaps replace it with a socket head cap screw? (Allen head)
Then the diameter will be smaller and a simple Allen key can be used to adjust..
Or just food for a similar idea perhaps..:)
 

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I wouldn't do it... The adjustible is so much larger, moving parts would be exposed to the elements of the road as well it will be easy for others to tamper with it. Even if it's just some kids ball rolls under the car and he sees the adjustment knob and turns it out of curiosity, you wont know until you are skidding out of control...
 

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I've had a Wilwood proportioning valve mounted off the drivers side frame rail for 10+ years with no problems at all. I have it on roughly 1/4 standoffs and put some wheel bearing grease on the exposed portion of the threads to keep grime and debris from getting to the threads. The knob is facing inward toward the frame/driveline and the formed lip on the rocker panel hides the valve from normal sight 100%. I had plans years ago to make a aluminum box with a cover to put the valve in but never got around to it. Best made plans I guess.

My car is low enough that only a baseball could fit underneath and any kids playing with a baseball near my car won't even get a chance to climb under to retrieve the ball.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Are you able to remove the knob and perhaps replace it with a socket head cap screw? (Allen head)
Then the diameter will be smaller and a simple Allen key can be used to adjust..
Or just food for a similar idea perhaps..:)
Knob appears to be pressed on and I'm not sure I want to try to center-drill the shaft after I pull the knob off. I'm considering removing the knob and slotting the shaft so it's basically a flat-head screwdriver adjustment though.

I wouldn't do it... The adjustible is so much larger, moving parts would be exposed to the elements of the road as well it will be easy for others to tamper with it. Even if it's just some kids ball rolls under the car and he sees the adjustment knob and turns it out of curiosity, you wont know until you are skidding out of control...
Well, I never really leave the car anywhere and always park in my garage, so it's probably a low risk, but I hadn't thought about anyone messing with the valve... Definitely something for me to think about...

I've had a Wilwood proportioning valve mounted off the drivers side frame rail for 10+ years with no problems at all. I have it on roughly 1/4 standoffs and put some wheel bearing grease on the exposed portion of the threads to keep grime and debris from getting to the threads. The knob is facing inward toward the frame/driveline and the formed lip on the rocker panel hides the valve from normal sight 100%. I had plans years ago to make a aluminum box with a cover to put the valve in but never got around to it. Best made plans I guess.
I'm having trouble visualizing your setup. Sounds like your valve is mounted between the subframe and rocker panel with the knob pointed towards the center of the car (?). In that case, the valve is actually mounted to the floor of the car, right?

Thanks for the thoughts. Still messing with getting the 8.5" in (stupid repro shock plates fit like crap and it looks like I'm going to need to shorten my driveshaft bout 2" :mad: ), so I'll have a bit of time before I get around to the brake lines again....
 

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I'm having trouble visualizing your setup. Sounds like your valve is mounted between the subframe and rocker panel with the knob pointed towards the center of the car (?). In that case, the valve is actually mounted to the floor of the car, right?
Mounted to the underside of the floor just inboard from where the floor and rocker are seamed and have the crimp sticking down. My stock brake line ran right along the floor board against the frame in those crappy little clips. I took the stock valve out, rebent the lines, and put the Wilwood in it's place. I used some 1/4" aluminum spacers designed for cabinet pulls and screwed it into place.

If I can get under the car later today and snap a pic for you I will. As a picture is worth 1000 words... with most of the words having 4 letters.
 

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i have an adjustable valve installed on my '64 ChevyII. mine is plumbed so the knob comes through the floor just to the right/front of the driver's seat. it made the adjustment real easy and any fine tuning and it's at my fingertips when ever i'd need it. i've been told the adjustment might need changing/adjusting the first time i drive on a wet road... my car as a little over 4000 miles on it and hasn't seen any rain or wet roads.

so far though i believe it to be set right. my brakes feel fine.

 
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