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Discussion Starter #1
Hey there peoples. Got a MSD Pro Billet 8361 that I want to install. The question being, are the o'rings on the bottom of the shaft necessary? I tried installing it once before and ripped one of the rings as it dropped into place. I know that a normal dist. doesn't have em, but am curious about the MSD actually requiring them.
 

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Got your e-mail... I'm going to say yes you need the o-rings. I believe if you mic the shaft where the o-rings go it's smaller than a stock dist. Without the o-rings the dist would rock around and cause all sorts of problems from flakey timing to warn parts...
 

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Dennis, not to sure because it was a real b&tch getting it to drop there. Have to see if I can locate new O'rings to put on it then for round two. Looked at MSD's site, but didnt see any mention of replacement o'rings. should be a real blast to figure out.
Thanks though for the response.
 

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Mine dropped right in just like a stock unit, oiled it up real good. If you have one, the local NAPA carries a good selection of o-rings. Auto Zone and Advance Auto will sometimes pull out a tray full if you catch them in a good mood and they're not busy.
 

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Thanks rojo, I think the problem more than anything might be the oil pump extention. It's one of the newer type that sits on top of the pump stem vs being clamped to it. So it tends to lean a bit. Picked an O'ring up at Home Depot and am playing with the wires now.
 

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Man what a royal PITA that was to install. *Note to self- Never get replacement oil pump connecting rod that does not clamp down.
 

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Just for reference, the MSD replacement O-rings are available through Summit Racing. Part number is MSD-8494. The listed price is $11.69. Seems like alot of money for 2 O-rings.

As for whether the O-rings are needed, here is the quote from my manual(8551):

"Controlled Oil Flow:

The MSD Billet Distributor has two slots on each of the two bottom distributor lands. These slots are provided for installation of the two O-rings provide in the parts bag. These O-rings increase oil pressure by preventing oil from escaping past the oil gallery lands. Before taking advantage of this feature, the engine block must be modified.

If the O-rings are not used, the oil pressure will remain as if a standard distributor were used"

There is a diagram that shows the edges of the distributor bore in the block chamfered. I guess if you do not make the suggested modification to the block, the O-rings can be easily torn during installation.

I hope I am explaining this clearly. I can try to have the diagram from the manual scanned if needed to make this clear.

[ 07-31-2004, 09:06 PM: Message edited by: rcatalano ]
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Rick,
Thanks, the o'rings do make it more difficult to get in, but finally got it in. (picked one up at home depot for $.28. Just got back from dinner and took it out to test it.. Seems like a couple extra ponies crept under the hood along with a better sound out the tail pipes. :D
 

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I'll be darn. I wondered why my oil pressure was so high and was thinking what I could do about it. It was blowing oil out the valve covers until I installed baffled gromets and that was on top of baffled valve covers. I was seeing it go as high as 80psi when cold. I read and read the instructions but I guess I never hit on that part. I'll be pulling it out this afternoon. Aint it neat how one problem provides a solution to another.

Thanks Rick.

And it might sound strange, but thanks Nantooch for having your problem. You might want to consider not using those o-rings.
 

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Well I just knew that was going to take care of my problem but it only helped. Removing the o-rings dropped the oil pressure 5psi on a cold motor. Not sure if that little of change was the intention of the o-rings or if "modifying the block to take advantage of this feature" would have had more of an impact. Either way I'm leaving them off.
 
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