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I have a timing problem. I installed an older MSD mechanical advance distributor with a Blaster 2 coil and 6A box in my fresh rebuilt 327. It runs well but I can't seem to get the timing near spec (8* BTDC), with the gun. It wants to stall as I approach the top of the timing tab! The distributor was new straight from MSD so it has the factory springs etc.. in the set up. I've never modified it. What would cause this? Could the dist. be a tooth off? Should I play with the advance curve (springs & bushings)? I'm at a loss. I can put it on a dyno for $125/hr but want to try it myself 1st. Wally Booth built my short block and says it should run at the factory timing spec even with the bigger cam. I'm sure he degreed it properly, Wally is a legend (Booth-Aarons). It runs pretty well but it is a bit too advanced for easy starts. Any advice would be great! Thanks.:confused:
 

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What balancer and what timing tab do you have? Are they original to that 327? Sounds like they may not be in agreement givng you a bad reading.

If it runs well but is too advanced for easy starts it is likely you are somewhere well above 8 degrees advanced right now. With not much to go on, I'd bring it back(clockwise) a bit until it starts well, then drive it and see if it pings. If it does, back off some more until it stops pinging. Then see what the timing light tells you. Keep your rpm consistent, say 800 rpm for example, everytime you try to read with the light. As you advance rpm should climb.
 

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Hmmmm... never thought of that. the timing cover (with tab) is original but I'm not sure on the balancer. I'll have to check my records.
 

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What balancer and what timing tab do you have? Are they original to that 327? Sounds like they may not be in agreement givng you a bad reading.
my 1st thought....
pull #1 plug, kick the engine over with your finger over the hole....when u feel pressure u are on compression stroke.
Now turn engine up manually ..as the piston gets near the top use a bit of mig wire or screw driver to feel the piston move.
As it comes up it stops moving at the top before goingf back down
mark the postion where it stops moving and where it starts going back down on the timing tag....1/2 way between those 2 marks is TDC...well maybe not exactly put so close it doesnt mater for what u are doing.

While there check that the dizzy is in correct position/tooth..#1 HT lead and rotor faces damn near staight forward and the VA canister pionts to just behind the passenger head light....this enables a wide scope of movement without fouling valley covers and stuff.

says it should run at the factory timing spec even with the bigger cam
yeah or damn close to it..bit more idle (intial+VA) advance thu
u do not mention changing the mixture to suit as u change timing and rpms...these go hand in hand, not just for the idle but when setting the power curve in the time to....and the cruise.
Also the dizzy u have is most proberly set up for later model ported vac engines with approiate emmission crap on,,,these curves are not interchangable
Also I doubt very much the msd is even close to the "factory timing spec " your guy is talking about.
 
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