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Discussion Starter #1
Not sure if if this is doable, or maybe its always doable but not safe. I picked up some lowering multileafs for my car, but since it is 2 years away from completion I was thinking of sticking those on my son's 68 to lower the rear end, but the brand new rear end on his is single leaf now. Can we still use the same single perches, and if so, what is the best method of attaching to make it safe?

-shoe
 

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I was never a fan of the way the mono leaf perch locates the rear on the springs. It uses the lower shock plate to locate, as opposed to the multi-leaf system which uses a pin on the top of the spring that locates in the hole in the spring perch. Here's what I did to put a 3 leaf spring plus a lowering block into a mono perch:

- I bought 2 grade 8 socket head capscrews (aka Allen head bolts) and replaced the bolt that clamps the leafs together. The head of the bolt is now the locating pin. If you already have that type of bolt in your springs, you can skip this step.

- I went to the hardware store and bought a length of 1/4" x 2 1/2" flat bar steel, and cut two identical pieces to fit in each spring perch. Roughhly 5 1/2" as I recall.

- I measured the diameter of the Allen head bolt with a caliper.

- I marked the center of of the pieces of flat bar by drawing diagonal lines corner to corner. The intersection in the middle is center.

- I drilled a hole in piece of flatbar that matched the diameter of the bolt head using a Christmas tree bit.

- With the rear out of the car on horses, I bolted one of the lower shock plates to a perch. Slid the flat bar into the perch and used the large hole in the center of the lower shock plate as a guide to center the hole in the flat bar in the exact center of the perch. Stuck the bolt head in the hole, and made a bushing out of an aluminum spacer I had laying around just to make sure it was lined up perfectly.

- Once I was certain the flat bar was perfectly located in the center of the perch, I welded the flat bar to the perch. Repeat on the other perch.

- I set the lowering block on top of the spring (hole already drilled in center of it) and used the allen head bolt to bolt the block and springs together.

- Install rear back into car. The allen head bolt locates the rear positively in the perch and is pretty much fool proof.

There will be a fairly good sized gap between the bottom of the perch and the shock plate. I chose to fill in the gap. I used some square tubing with holes drilled for the U-bolts to pass through. I used U-bolts at all four locations.

It sounds complicated, but it's pretty easy.

Note the absence of rubber pads.

 

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How many leafs are in the lowering leaf pack? I used the JCW 3 leafs in my mono rear with no issues. I would think that there would be no issues for you. But check out David P's website he has a lot of info there.
 

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^^ I have one side done on my JCW 3-leaf swap. So far, I have a gap between my shock plate and the perch.
Is this normal? From anyone who has done this swap?

I'm assuming since the 3-leaf setup is 1/2 inch thicker than a mono, I'm going to have the gap. Don't think I like it, but .....
 

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^^ I have one side done on my JCW 3-leaf swap. So far, I have a gap between my shock plate and the perch.
Is this normal? From anyone who has done this swap?

I'm assuming since the 3-leaf setup is 1/2 inch thicker than a mono, I'm going to have the gap. Don't think I like it, but .....
Yes there will be a little gap. But won't be an issue. I have also used them with the multi perch. With those you will need to make a little spacer. I just used alum. flat stock. But there are a couple other items that need to be changed when you switch to like a 12 bolt. Brake line mounting bracket to the pumpkin. And if you have wide wheels you need to make sure and use the multi shock plate. Or you might run into clearance issues with the shock and the inner wheel rim.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Short story: The rear end has a lot of "Play" in it with the leaf spring pin size versus the shock plate and multileaf perch. is that by design? The front of the rear tires seem really close to the body, but I can move them around a little.

Long story: So I bit the bullet and paid to have the multileaf pads welded on with the right parts and pitch. $400 later she is finished and looks beautiful. Seems high? Well, I had the disassemble the whole rear end and fix everything that the guy I bought it from had messed up. The Wilwood backing plates weren't on right and the wheel studs (that his shop had undersized) can only be applied with the axle out so...

Anyway, once I got her in and did the math, I realized that we had $3000 in this thing, and it was going into a car we plan to sell right away so last weekend I took it out and replaced it with an original 373 12 bolt posi from another car project. $1500 feels a lot better.

Still, that positioning of the rear end seems a little loose to me. Makes me nervous.

-shoe
 
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