[Classycamaro]

Trying to keep cost down. I have a Nov 66 Muncie M20. I'm going to be putting in a new Centerforce clutch kit.

But I have a separate issue, sometimes when i put it in 1st it wont grab, and i have to put it in 2nd and knudge it a bit, then i put it back in 1st and it usually always grabs.

The guy that does transmissions around here wants 2200 bucks to do all the work which i think is too much by about 700. Anyways he says if i brought in the parts, he could put them in, (but he wont warranty the work or parts) which is fine....

what parts am i looking at? (or do you have to crack it open to find out?)

Thanks much!

 

[R66]

$2200 plus parts is way high in my opinion depending on your area of the country. I would try adjusting the shifter first - could be a free repair. You can buy a rebuilt from some vendors. Check out Autogear and 5 Speeds sites for info on parts and upgrades.
You have to remove it and open it up to replace almost any parts except the shifting paws on the side cover.

 

[Sauron67MM]

Shifter linkage alignment. I only deal with Jodys Transmissions. You probably don't know about parallel and concentric bellhousing alignment. I have all the tools and shims to properly do job.

 

[blm]

Could be as simple as worn linkage bushings or slots worn in linkage levers. In any regard $2.2K is too much to repair a 50 + year old Muncie unless your car is an all original numbers matching vehicle. For a couple hundred more you could be in a brand new Autogear trans or what I would do is go Tremec TKX.

 

[scblucam]

Sounds way high. I bought an M20 with good used internals and new rebuild parts in a new Autogear Super case and a ball bearing side cover for $1800, still sitting on the floor waiting for an opportune time like $$ and no pain.

 

[Classycamaro]

I was sure that 2200 was too much. The parts at most will be $500. you figure about 8 hours labor and that comes to $1500 max... so yes, thanks. And, thanks for the input on the adjustments, I worry about doing the linkage adjustments myself because I know you can screw things up down there.... not much of a tranny guru.... but, i got the car to work on it in the garage...part of the fun, i just might look everything up and give it a try....

 

[3forme]

Yep Autogear M23 from Midwest Muncies cost me 2300 all new
Over the years on this site Jodys transmissions as stated above seems to be a standout

 

[ZZ_430]

You could just go through it yourself and bypass the inflated labor $$ you mentioned.

It's a piece of cake, just need access to a press.

 

[mahunt]

Where do you live?

I just rebuilt my 67 M20 last year completely; keeping only the aluminum casings and main shaft for about $600. There is nothing that compares to a new feeling Muncie.

Check either Jody's or Paul Cangialosi websites for Muncie restoration prices.

 

[blm]

I was sure that 2200 was too much. The parts at most will be $500. you figure about 8 hours labor and that comes to $1500 max... so yes, thanks. And, thanks for the input on the adjustments, I worry about doing the linkage adjustments myself because I know you can screw things up down there.... not much of a tranny guru.... but, i got the car to work on it in the garage...part of the fun, i just might look everything up and give it a try....

Take a look at the bushings at both ends of the shifter rods. Do they have slop in them? If so change them. There are two different versions of the bushngs, being plastic and steel. The steel obviously last longer but make a little more noise when they vibrate. They are simple to change.

Also look at the slots in the shifter levers where they attach to the trans. They can become mushroomed by hard shifts. Mushroomed slots will cause a lot of slop in the shifter. Both the bushings and deformed slots can cause the condition you described.
Both the bushings and the levers are available at Summit racing although I believe Summit only sells the plastic bushings. In the past I have acquired steel bushings at Brewers Performance.

I also want to add that as these Muncie transmissions age they can and do develope issues with the case. Many times the cases should be bushed during a rebuild. That is something that would be difficult for one to do in their home garage the therefore adding to the cost of a rebuild.

 

[SY1]

Agree with everything so far. Blm comments are exactly what I was thinking. Need to eliminate shifter and adjustment as a source first.

Really simple. Purchase a Hurst Pit Pack (kit to install metal bushings and retaining clips). Disconnect all 3 shifter linkage arms, toss the nylon bushings, install metal bushings and with shifter in nuetral put a properly sized drill bit shank end into the shifter arm rig pin holes and leave it. Make sure all 3 attach points set to nuetral and adjust the shifter arms to line up and attach to studs on trans. Remove rig pin. Move shifter through all gears. If handle has excessive movement beyond engaging gear adjust the foward and aft lever stops, these are adjusted from top of trans tunnel with shifter boot removed. Tighten jamb nuts on the lever stops (bolts) when excessive lever travel is eliminated. Some Hurst competition plus shifters do not have lever stops, but do have 3/8" dimple in shifter where stops would be located. I have drilled these out and installed my own stop bolts and jam nuts but shifter must be removed from car to do that. Shift lever will need to be removed from shifter to drop shifter out.

If issue still exist disassemble shifter body and carefull remove/mark for reassembly all plates and shims, inspect for wear, damage, tears. If okay lube and reassemble exactly as taken apart.

 

[Ronnie64-1637]

Trying to keep cost down. I have a Nov 66 Muncie M20. I'm going to be putting in a new Centerforce clutch kit.

But I have a separate issue, sometimes when i put it in 1st it wont grab, and i have to put it in 2nd and knudge it a bit, then i put it back in 1st and it usually always grabs.

The guy that does transmissions around here wants 2200 bucks to do all the work which i think is too much by about 700. Anyways he says if i brought in the parts, he could put them in, (but he wont warranty the work or parts) which is fine....

what parts am i looking at? (or do you have to crack it open to find out?)

Thanks much!

I’d find me another mechanic!

 

[fairfax1000]

Check all the shifter bushings for excessive wear and rods for sloppiness.