A window opened up in the body/chassis shop I am working with and I hauled it over there this morning. It will get, firewall, front footwells, trunk floor, tail light panel, trunk gussets, rear deck, trunk lid...(decided to go for one without the spoiler. Car had a rear antenna when the po decided to install the spoiler and those two were in conflict forever. dunno if I will like it in the long run but for now the antenna wins. 67's didn't have them anyway)....and maybe a roof panel. They will also put in the minitubs, upper control arm mounts, and the upper shock mounting assembly. The sheet metal will be AMD. See how long this takes.........
nothing much happened this week. Moved the car. It was at a shop that does any level of modification you want to anything. Regular business, no advertising not even a sign out front. Now its with a moonlight paint/body guy. It will be at this step for a while so pictures will be scarce. In my case abandoning the idea of doing the chassis work was a good idea. I could have done the DSE stuff ok but the level of bodywork that became apparent was outside of my talents/capabilities. Maybe a couple of decades ago it would have been a good idea. The paint side of it was never in my wheelhouse and that's fine. Makes me wonder how many trim tag vin tag deals are the end result of a bungled body job. I have more stuck into this than I thought I would at this point but am glad I have gone the route I have. For me this car isn't a flipper. Bought it at 18, raced it some, did stupid stuff in it plenty. Parked it. Woke it up to use in our wedding. Parked it. Woke it up to bring the oldest home from the hospital, parked it, never woke it again. Some day my kids will figure out what to do with it.
lesson learned here is that they are always worse than you think so if you don't have a sentimental attachment to it have an objective body man look at it also. My budget for the job was the value of a 2nd Harley which would have been a Road Glide so I have some room left in the budget. maybe I should have told her a CVO Road Glide though.
Put the holes for the trunk emblems in yesterday. I made a template of my original truck lid before the emblems I got from Ricks showed up (in Camaro Headquarters wrapping). I taped the template on the old lid, marked the holes, drilled them, dropped in the emblems....crooked with regard to the lid lip. Put the in the original holes....crooked too. Puzzled over that a bit and decided to true them to the lip and modified the template to do that. The Camaro emblem appears perfect. The text on the Chevrolet script is a really good match to an original I have. The nut bosses are not in line with the originals and flex the emblem in the original holes just a bit. I corrected for that too. Dunno if this would have bugged me if it was on your car.
I also bought the rear antenna template. That was a waste of money. I am on the 2nd quarter panel there. That template didn't stand a chance. The line that follows the trunk side and radius wasn't close either. I think I am about an inch off the dimension in the manual. I have to lay it out this weekend.
neither pic shows well what I have. The original lid had the Camaro emblem skewed high on the left side relative to the lip of the lid. The Chevrolet emblem is skewed high on the left relative to the Camaro emblem. They are in line on the new lid.
Antenna hole is a pita. Any suggestions?
Got the black off the new panels today and put it back into epoxy. Have to work on fitment and gaps next. Then rotisserie. The doors were really nice. Just stripped them today. Bright old spots in a load of new sheet metal.
The AAW Classic upgrade kit showed up today. I really don't need it yet but I wanted to see the fuse block. The place on the cowl where the block mounts is a little less than impressive. You can see in the previous post that I wound up with a little warpage on the edge of the original hole. The upgrade harness come with a 68 style block and is attached with a couple of long sheet metal screws. I think I am going to mill a backing plate out of aluminum or stainless, tap it, and bolt the fuse block through the cowl with 1/4-20 or 28 socket heads. The kit is very impressive.
I think the 68's have a return formed on the punched fuse block hole in the firewall to give it some strength. The new firewall seemed like it would be bit flimsy there and the metal screws that came with the aaw harness didn't appeal to me so I made a reinforcement plate for it. The fuse block accepts 1/4 screws so I will use socket heads on it
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