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Camaro 1968, going along with a propane powered BPE 383 ci, T56, Eaton Posi 4.10:1, MCB Big Brakes
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey, I am starting to write about my project, don't know really if this is the place, but I am thinking I'd like to share my project... Instagram is not giving me vibrations and I am choosing to share it with you as you always were a great help!

Everything started more than 20 years ago when I got the car here in Belgium after getting help and relation from this forum as a start!

It is a 68 camaro coupe with blue interior and a 327 with a M21 from CA, LA.
I was young back then and learnt from my errors, we went through some headaches, I was feeling quickly alone with the car and not getting a lot of help. In 2008 I started to really work on it and we fixed the brakes, did some minor electricity fixes but I had a major vibration issue , that I later found had been created due to incompetent cheap mechanics that worked on the car...

Later in 2011 I had the chance to buy parts and changed almost everything related to the drivetrain. I also found the origin of the vibration just before I upgraded to big disk brakes...

In 2014 I had my first daughter, now I have 3 girls. Work, built our house, take care of the kids, the car just stayed there.
Early 2021 I decided to check the engine as it always leaked + I wanted to start to install a new electrical harness and get a new interior after that.
This turned out completely differently... the engine was removed and sold...

Tomorrow I am going to Antwerp port with my trailer. I will get a lot of parts, I am excited :)

I will / I can post here on the forum about my job of the past month and more obviously about the next job to come...


Marc
 

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1969 Chevrolet Camaro Convertible
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Sounds like a cool project. Looking forward to seeing your progress.

What was the source of the vibration?

Propane?
 

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Camaro 1968, going along with a propane powered BPE 383 ci, T56, Eaton Posi 4.10:1, MCB Big Brakes
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi!

Before I start with today feedback, I'll answer to your question Vivration was due to a wrong master cylinder. When you applied the brakes a few times the car was slightly braking, at the rear the drums were not free and at each rotation they touched somehow the cover and this created horrible vibration...

Today I picked up my parts.
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I created a engine stand on wheels with the wooden support from Blue Print Engine.

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I started to open boxes and organize my garage.

I have a first question about the DSE heater delete plate.I am suprised it is not meant to touch the firewall.Do you apply a very thick seal there? Like permanant flexible seal (butyl dum dum style) ?

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Indeed I have a lip on the firewall where the plate comes, and it is nt nice on the whole perimeter :

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More to come ...


Marc
 

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1969 Chevrolet Camaro Convertible
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That don't look right to me.

Two lines that pop out from the installation instructions linked here.

ii. Remove the nuts that hold the heater box and cover to the firewall. There will be a total of six nuts.
...
c. Apply sealant to the back of the plate. We recommend using 3M StripCaulk p/n: 08578.

Hope this helps.
 

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Camaro 1968, going along with a propane powered BPE 383 ci, T56, Eaton Posi 4.10:1, MCB Big Brakes
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Maybe my picture is not ok for you to see, but I mean I will need a thick joint as the gap is large behind the plate due to the lip on the firewall. Strip caulk 3M 08578 is a butyl cord 6 mm thick permant flexible, to be used on the kick manel assembly for example.

I guess this is the way to go.

Any suggestion for the type of harware to use to avoid bending the plate (again due to this gap there is no surface contact of the plate on the firewall)?

Marc
 

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That don't look right to me.

Two lines that pop out from the installation instructions linked here.

ii. Remove the nuts that hold the heater box and cover to the firewall. There will be a total of six nuts.
...
c. Apply sealant to the back of the plate. We recommend using 3M StripCaulk p/n: 08578.

Hope this helps.
Those instructions are for the BOLT IN Heater Delete Plate.

277782
 

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Maybe my picture is not ok for you to see, but I mean I will need a thick joint as the gap is large behind the plate due to the lip on the firewall. Strip caulk 3M 08578 is a butyl cord 6 mm thick permant flexible, to be used on the kick manel assembly for example.

I guess this is the way to go.

Any suggestion for the type of harware to use to avoid bending the plate (again due to this gap there is no surface contact of the plate on the firewall)?

Marc
You are supposed to remove the lip before installing the DSE plate. Then it will sit flush and you and weld or panel bond it to the firewall.

Once it is attached you can seam seal the perimeter if needed.

Don
 

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The stamped panel is not flat. It has a perimeter lip that stands it off the firewall to clear lip on the firewall heater hole.
 

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The stamped panel is not flat. It has a perimeter lip that stands it off the firewall to clear lip on the firewall heater hole.
The lip on the firewall is too high in this case. The DSE panel is sitting high on the lip. I have had to remove or flatten it in the past….

Don
 

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Perhaps.

If you look closely at the picture it looks like the raised perimeter lip is facing away from the firewall.

View attachment 277783
I think he is showing the difference between the DSE lip and the firewall lip gap. Must be an engineer… :D

The other caveat is that if the lip is there and the gap is small to the DSE plate it could easily generate a rattle…

Don
 
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I think he is showing the difference between the DSE lip and the firewall lip gap. Must be an engineer… :D

The other caveat is that if the lip is there and the gap is small to the DSE plate it could easily generate a rattle…

Don
i guess. Would have been more helpful to place the firewall panel in place. Could then determine how much trimming will be needed for the plate to contact the firewall.

OP may also need to grind the lip on the panel in some places to fit the firewall. All in the instructions.
 

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Camaro 1968, going along with a propane powered BPE 383 ci, T56, Eaton Posi 4.10:1, MCB Big Brakes
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hi guys! Thanks for your comments!
Indeed I am an engineer good guess :) and yes I showed your the plate positioned flat on the lip , this is with a bolt in DSE heater deletre plate.
The nut you see has nothing to do with the delete plate mounting, it holds a sopport plate for ignition box inside the car.

I know understand I will need to cut out the lip as the lip is protruding a lot, with the DSE plate being almost a flat plate.

I am not really satisfied about that. My firewall is painted and I though this plate would have allowed an easy assembly.. On their instruction they don't talk about the lip...

Can you tell me if a vintage air system can be installed behind this plate without room issue? I had a previous vintage air plastic heated plate with a large protruding box where the hoses came from. (I will take a picture to show you if needed)


I am glad to start this build topic here with you as I see all your help this is great!

Marc
 

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When you say “Bolt In”

This is the bolt in. Shown in post #7. It it the one you have? It completely cover the heater hole so trimming should not be a problem with the firewall painted.
 

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Camaro 1968, going along with a propane powered BPE 383 ci, T56, Eaton Posi 4.10:1, MCB Big Brakes
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yes this is the one vega$69. Just used metal chisel and pliers and it was done in 5 minutes.
As I am a perfectionniste I will repaint the edges next time I will be using paint...

I am going to paint the engine block as well a second layer, using epoxy orange paint.
 

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OK that particular cover bolts onto the studs that hold the interior heater core box to the firewall

you can remove the heater core and box completely and use nuts and bolts to secure the cover to the firewall
 

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Camaro 1968, going along with a propane powered BPE 383 ci, T56, Eaton Posi 4.10:1, MCB Big Brakes
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hi guys,
I've been out this w-e, and could only work on the project yesterday night... I am cleaning parts mostly fr engine assemby, and I messed around with the heater delete plate...

1. This heater delete plate needs modification, holes do not align with the firewall holes. It takes some time, not a big deal though...
The round part behind the fender is not easily reachable for fixing it. (my fender is not removed)
I can sit in the engine bay for the moment and fix everything but after the engine will be installed that will not be possible.
These are the sequences :
  • cut a square section from the heater delete plate where the 4 hoses (2 AC + 2 heater) will protrude.
  • align all fixation holes, paint the plate, and insall it forever
  • install the engine
  • prepare a plate with 4 large holes at the right dimension with the right grommets for the installation of the heater and AC hoses, toghether with the help of a AC shop.

For the first and third step, I'd like to have some hard lines with elbows going through the firewall, so no soft hoses are going inside the car.
Any suggestions?
I found this picture on this forum :
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Below I add a picture of my vintage air system out of the car.
Electrical wiring Gas Cable Wire Electrical supply
Thursday, I am going to a shop specialized in hydraulics, sure they can help for my power steering hoses, and I'll ask them about the AC as well.

2. This leads me to talk about the steering system.
I have a Iroc Z steering gear, and now I have these new pumps and reservoirs from CVF to install
Product Font Gas Auto part Machine


I want to go to the shop with all my parts : steering gear, pump and reservoir so they can make the hoses with fittings crimped for me.

Can you help me define the right lenght of both hoses high pressure and return line to the steering gear??
I don't know where to install the reservoir but will listen to your suggestions...


Thanks!!
 

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Camaro 1968, going along with a propane powered BPE 383 ci, T56, Eaton Posi 4.10:1, MCB Big Brakes
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Didn't worked a lot on the camaro as we left for summer vacation with my familly... I made an intake port matching job on the intake manifold to fit with heads.

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I also decided to pain 2 more layers of orange epoxy paint on the engine block.
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I masked and painted it. The block surface is now really smooth.

I continued other small prepair jobs. Made some joints to plug the fuel pump hole
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And I also repainted complete rear end after a good cleaning and after the wheel wels painting, I miss these pictures....

In August I hope to get the help from a neighboor who is a prefessional weder, to install the DSE subframe connectors. I installed the new Global west solid bushing following the procedure and I want to check the chassis squareness with right measurements soon...
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Last week I focussed on the engine, I got a torque wrench 15 lb ft to 60 lb ft and could install the intake manifold. As you told me (Socal) I even cleaned the flanges with aceton. The block is a Blue Print casting and the gap on chinese walls is very tight, I think only 1 mm (didn't measure) : not so much RTV was needed, I used the Loctite product I had. As you told me I used only on the chineese walls and some more in the corners below and over the gasket edges.

I torqued to 15 lb ft and not 11 because this is the lowest reading on the wrench I have. Don't believe this difference matters.

Then I installed the tortionnal balancer. Needed to heat it up quite a lot with heat gun. I played with different layers of shims so the bolt could engage the thread.

At the back I placed the flywheel in position and a bolt on it to get a leverage while torquing the balancer. Found out some of the flywheel counterweight parts are missing - Summit will proceed with a warranty.

I followed the procedures for CVF system installation.
I almost forgot to install the hose barb to 1/2" NPT on the water pump before starting .. fortunatly I though about it.

While installting the serpentine system I wondered if I needed to torque to spec, finally I only torqued to spec the vibration balancer to 60 lb ft, water pump and crank pulley to 30 lb ft.

The brackets I fixed good, a good hard hand tight.

The belt was pretty hard to get inposition. I removed the just installed alternator pulley but still the tension was hard!
I am glad I don't have to install this belt with engine in the car I wonder how it would be when I need to change a belt!!

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I will install the cover caps when I 'll buy the 9/64" allen because this small allen I was missing.

Maybe I'll leave the caps install when the engine is in the car, it is easy install and I don't want scratches.

Next plan on the engine, when I get the parts from summit is to bolt on the flywheel, clutch.

On the CVF instructions it says to route a extra ground wire for the alternator. I don't understand why : I will have a ground harness from the chassis to the block and from the block to the battery. Aluminum is a lot more electrically conducive then steel, so what is the reason? Aluminum oxyde?

Before to install engine in the car, I need to decide what to do about the preparation for cabin heater unit / ac unit. I started to work on the heater cover plate... I will share with you my idea before proceeding with the work.


Marc
 

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Looks nice. I would cover the carb mounting. Now would not be a good time to accidently drop anything down the intake.
 
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