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New restoration including new springs. Looks like I have 3 choices:
1. Wait, and hope it settles down.
2. replace coil springs or cut them down.
3. Replace spindles with drop spindles.



What should I do?
 

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Check to make sure the spring is in the cup right. If so take it for a drive. If that doesn't do it cut a coil.

It might be the control arm bolts were tightened while the wheels were up. You might need to loosen them, drop the car onto the ground, then tighten them.
 
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No to drop spindles for sure .. and yes to coil-overs, Ive had QA1's and Viking's from Speedtech ... both good, but Viking's quality is much better

Cheers
Steve
 

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You could also replace the coil springs with QA coil overs that give you great adjustability.
But then you need to change the lower control arms. Any nobody likes mismatching control arms so you should do the uppers as well. While you're in there you might as well upgrade the brakes to 6 pistons.

...and now your back end doesn't match the front so get a 4 link set up. Since you have the rear end out you might as well change gears as well. Oh and with all that out of the way change the tank so you can add EFI...


...and that's why my wife made me sell mine...:D
 
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I am with Steve on this Tony. Andrew is right with spindles although there are spindles out there that do work.
Which ones? Don't they all change the geometry out of design necessity? Also he has stock wheels. The control arms will interfere if he uses drop spindles.

I put them on mine and struggled for a solid year to get rid of bump steer. It wouldn't go away.

I put stock ones on, cut 2 coils, got the exact look I wanted and never looked back. New bushings, wide tires with short sidewalls (17" wheels), and a lower center of gravity makes these old cars drive surprisingly well. Mine had very neutral steering in the corners, stopped really well, and loved to tear up highway miles.

Sure you can go full resto-mod and make them into extreme canyon carvers but if you're just driving it on the street a fresh stock suspension does surprisingly well without the need for all that stuff I jokingly listed in the post above.
 
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The car is not going the settle that far. The springs not indexed into the spring pockets would not make it that high.

You have 3 choices. #1 replace the springs. #2 cut the springs. #3 install coil over springs.

You don't need to change control arms to install coil overs.

I would cut the springs.
 
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Ben - Delaware - 67 Camaro
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i have the Viking coil overs and absolutely LOVE them. total adjustability in ride height and firmness. completely transformed the car. Also, I'm using them on STOCK lower control arms without an issue. the only difference is the bottom ears will sit on top of the control arm and you'll have to drill out the factory welded nuts to run the larger mounting bolts through and install nut on bottom. the instructions are very clear and easy to understand. installation was surprisingly easy. Hands Down the SINGLE GREATEST modification I've made to the car (and I've changed just about everything)

do yourself a favor and step into the 21st century. the Viking coil overs will make that thing feel like a modern car.


I'll be waiting for my check in the mail Viking.....
 

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I had the same problem, I cut 2/3 of a coil off the top and it dropped about an inch. Had no problems afterwards but I did get a front end alignment just to make sure everything was ok.
 

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New is not always better. But the old ones back in.

Roger
 

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another option is coil spring specialties. They can rate your old spring and make a set at what ever height you want. They did several for me and always on the money. you may need to weigh your front end so they know the weight and give them one of your springs.
 

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But then you need to change the lower control arms. Any nobody likes mismatching control arms so you should do the uppers as well. While you're in there you might as well upgrade the brakes to 6 pistons.

...and now your back end doesn't match the front so get a 4 link set up. Since you have the rear end out you might as well change gears as well. Oh and with all that out of the way change the tank so you can add EFI...


...and that's why my wife made me sell mine...:D
sorry couldn't help it
I guess YOU WEAR THE PANTS IN THE FAMILY:surprise:, but she picks the color:crying:
 

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sorry couldn't help it
I guess YOU WEAR THE PANTS IN THE FAMILY:surprise:, but she picks the color:crying:
To be fair I bought it for her in the first place. She always wanted one. Then she wanted a bigger house. Now she has one and not the other.

On a brighter note: I think I have her convinced to buy a boat! Wish me luck!

(something small. Nothing outrageous. Nothing worth as much as the car was since the lake near us only allows up to a 20 hp motor...)
 

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Another vote to cut the springs. Even if you chose to purchase another set of springs it "may" still produce the same problem you have now. I just put new multi-leafs, shocks and coils on my 69, 327ci small block V8 about a month ago and from what a reputable local Auto shop told me at the very most it will settle is 1/4". I have heard & researched where others say they have had theirs settle more than this however so far I have driven about 75/100 miles since the install and little to no settling. Also, if you cut the coil in my opinion you have a better chance of attaining the exact ride height you prefer. I went for the assembly line/factory correct stance. What a difference the new parts made on the ride and handling! Best of luck in your decision.
 

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Cutting the springs is really an easy task so give it a try. I cut one full coil off my springs and the car sits exactly where I wanted. Even if you screw it up, another set of springs is not that expensive. A new alignment will likely be needed as well just to be safe. If I remember correctly it only took me about an hour and half to do both sides. Dropping the lower control arm by removing the two mounting bolts makes it super easy and the spring decompresses nicely as you lower the jack that is supporting the control arm.
 

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Great looking car.

Cheap coil overs would be the last path I'd take. Especially ones that mount to stock lower control arms.

Drive it as is for 100 miles, if it's still too high cut a a little over 1/2 a coil (the first 1/3 of the coil doesn't impact ride height). In my recent case, new rear leafs settled more that the new coils.
 
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