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Discussion Starter · #441 ·
The window felt slots can be punched wrong. The two photos below show the slots punched at different heights. That little bit of variance makes a big difference how the window felt fits.

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Are you going to use reproduction glass? My reproduction door glass did not have a pronounced curve like the original glass. I had to cut the top of the door and move the felt closer to the glass.

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Miss Katie, you might be able to bend the door skin and the frame just a little to make the felt fit close to the reproduction glass before you weld the skin in place.
We are reusing the original glass.
 

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Discussion Starter · #443 · (Edited)
Well, that worked as hoped. I created a copper strip that fit the channel behind each window felt hole.

Katie welded up the bottom of each hole while I held the copper plate from behind.

We ground down the weld and then used a die grinder to ream out the hole.
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The felts now lock into place. Thanks so much for the heads up on the new skin. That would have been a pain to fix when the car was in paint.
 

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Discussion Starter · #450 ·
...at the peak only, flush at top & bottom. I'd shoot for .06 (1/16") as 1/8" is a bit extreme (obvious in appearance).
I am using my 67 L78 as a reference. It has all the original metal and the gaps are correct. It’s nice having a few cars around with original metal to take measurements from.
 

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Discussion Starter · #452 · (Edited)
Yeah, you've got good (old skool) taste (imo). (y) Apparently Katie has similar traits...has she decided on an engine? :)
Engine is being built now. 327 375hp. Roller cam, MSD ignition, all forged parts. Aluminum heads. Nothing too powerful but will still have some punch.

Katie likes the stock look with day 2 mods. So, do I.
 

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Tim - The Northwest 1969 Camaro
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We just sent the 12 bolt out to be powder coated and rebuilt. We have the Muncie M20 but We are planning on putting in a 5 spd. TKX is what I think it’s called.
You won't regret the 5 speed for sure. Great build!
 

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Discussion Starter · #455 ·
I followed the advice about not welding the door skin on before fitment. It is critical to successful door alignment.

We crimped the skin on and could not figure out why the lower door edge stuck out near the quarter. I remembered Sauron mentioning the door might twist.
So, I moved the door knocker out slightly and closed the door. I applied pressure to the lower door corner near the quarter. As I did that, the tabs in the door channel that need to be welded together lined up.
Additionally, the upper corner of the door turned in towards the fender which we needed.

Katie clamped the tabs and the door lined up correctly.
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Discussion Starter · #457 ·
The door will still twist with those tabs welded. Once you tack the hem it will be solid. I've twisted welded hems on doors that did not like up but it is combative.
I think we will leave it on the car. Clamp a few other spots to ensure it fits, and is secure, and weld it in place. Getting very close now. Amazing how much you have to fiddle with the panels when you disassemble the car to this level.
 

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Discussion Starter · #458 ·
Well, the driver door went without any issues. The passenger door did not. We tacked welds while it was on the car and then took it off to weld the forward section of the door. It now stick out a little more tan we want in the lower corner. I cut the tabs in the channel and can twist the door into shape (much harder now though). Door skins are no fun.
 

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Well, the driver door went without any issues. The passenger door did not. We tacked welds while it was on the car and then took it off to weld the forward section of the door. It now stick out a little more tan we want in the lower corner. I cut the tabs in the channel and can twist the door into shape (much harder now though). Door skins are no fun.
You can rack a door that is fully tacked and installed. Line the front to the fender put a block of wood top or bottom in the jamb and slam the door on it. Done this countless times. You'll get used to it after many cars. My 67 has original assembly line panels and gapped out nicely with little effort. Not all are like that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #460 ·
You can rack a door that is fully tacked and installed. Line the front to the fender put a block of wood top or bottom in the jamb and slam the door on it. Done this countless times. You'll get used to it after many cars. My 67 has original assembly line panels and gapped out nicely with little effort. Not all are like that.
I tried that last night but used foam. I think wood is the right way to go though. I’ll try it again tonight.
 
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