That agent was primarily for lacquer. SEM makes texture coating. Restoration Shop does also. If you ever do the hood blackout on a Ranchero , they were texture/sand like. PPG has a small color deck with all the gloss levels. Take one home.
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That agent was primarily for lacquer. SEM makes texture coating. Restoration Shop does also. If you ever do the hood blackout on a Ranchero , they were texture/sand like. PPG has a small color deck with all the gloss levels. Take one home.I just kept adding flattener until the egg shell disappeared. The ratio using the PPG product was about 1 part color to 1.6 part flattener.
The DX 685 data sheet called for 1:1 to get Flat but that produced an eggshell result.
1.6 to one provided flat results. I tried buying the PPG additive for the suede texture but it was discontinued.
Looks good 👍🏻So, we had an issue with the hood. We brought it out to buff and after 3 weeks in the house it looked like crap.
I think either Katie forgot to mix hardener in or the trick we used to clean up a mistake soaked into the existing paint.
I was worried about the number of coats we had added so Katie and I stripped it down to primer and started over.
Anyway, here is the finished product. Superior in every way to what we had applied previously.
I kept the gun about 4 inches from the surface and overlapped by about 80%. Doing so eliminates the need to cross hatch or feather.
I also slowed down a hair to ensure a wet coat. This consistency was needed on a big surface like the hood.
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Looks good 👍🏻
Not sure what you are doing with the e-brake. They were originally natural in color and the lever was masked off and painted black . The upper portion generally rusted to varying degrees. I have a few in stock. You can shoot parts like that and others wet on wet. Apply your epoxy reduced, let flash well. I ve shot the e brake with Cast Blast. When that flashes well, mask off the arm and shoot the black...al in one session.Here are pics of the last few parts painted with sealer and color. View attachment 307122
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I dipped the entire assembly in a etching solution that leaves a metal oxide coating and removes all the rust. This particular assembly was dipped as a single piece and had the coating all along the bottom. I certainly went a little higher than the dipped lines.Not sure what you are doing with the e-brake. They were originally natural in color and the lever was masked off and painted black . The upper portion generally rusted to varying degrees. I have a few in stock. You can shoot parts like that and others wet on wet. Apply your epoxy reduced, let flash well. I ve shot the e brake with Cast Blast. When that flashes well, mask off the arm and shoot the black...al in one session.
I just blasted and painted side covers for a 72 Triumph wet on wet. No way was I going to let primer dry and have to scuff all those deep fins prior to topcoat. Have fun.
May my prayers and the Force be with you.Tonight’s project! Hideaway headlights! View attachment 307307
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If your fenders are replacements, they may not come pre-drilled for the splash guards (goes behind hide-a-ways) brackets. I learned after final assembly was complete that my brackets were missing and it’s dang near impossible to get a drill/bit to pop one hole location. I had to use a flex bit ext & still a difficult task. Just FYI from my experience & frustration to help y’all avoid similar issue.Tonight’s project! Hideaway headlights! View attachment 307307
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I agree with that process. We just forgot about them. We did fill the holes with a clear coat/base coat mixture. But, not nearly as good as drilling before paint.I fit moldings and drill prior to paint. More efficient. Looks like your having fun.