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My daughters 67 RS Project

87240 Views 961 Replies 81 Participants Last post by  Sosh67
Well, my 19 year old daughter has been looking for a 67 Camaro project for us to do together and she finally found one.

It has solid bones but is going to need floors, quarters and outer rockers.

I made her restore a family vehicle earlier this year to get experience. So, she replaced rockers, primed and painted an 04 Jeep.

So, she has been hunting eBay and craigslist for a car and she found one last week.

67 RS with 2L option. It also has A/C and is marina blue with bright blue deluxe interior.

It came with a M20, 327 4bbl and 12 bolt rear end.

Not the original drivetrain but perfect for this car.

My wife bought me my own rotisserie so I don’t have to borrow one for this project.
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I just kept adding flattener until the egg shell disappeared. The ratio using the PPG product was about 1 part color to 1.6 part flattener.

The DX 685 data sheet called for 1:1 to get Flat but that produced an eggshell result.

1.6 to one provided flat results. I tried buying the PPG additive for the suede texture but it was discontinued.
That agent was primarily for lacquer. SEM makes texture coating. Restoration Shop does also. If you ever do the hood blackout on a Ranchero , they were texture/sand like. PPG has a small color deck with all the gloss levels. Take one home.
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So, we had an issue with the hood. We brought it out to buff and after 3 weeks in the house it looked like crap.

I think either Katie forgot to mix hardener in or the trick we used to clean up a mistake soaked into the existing paint.

I was worried about the number of coats we had added so Katie and I stripped it down to primer and started over.

Anyway, here is the finished product. Superior in every way to what we had applied previously.

I kept the gun about 4 inches from the surface and overlapped by about 80%. Doing so eliminates the need to cross hatch or feather.

I also slowed down a hair to ensure a wet coat. This consistency was needed on a big surface like the hood.

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Looks good 👍🏻
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Impressive work on the hood. Actually the whole build in fact. You don't know it but you two give hacks like me, motivation.
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Here are pics of the last few parts painted with sealer and color.


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Fitting the brake lines to the body today. The floor is brand new so some of the holes were missing and the holes in the frame rails for the rivet style clips needed to be expanded.

We just need to coat the areas we drilled out. I did have all the original clips and screws and will be using those instead of the ones in the kit.

I’ll post pics tomorrow.

We switched to completing the sound deadener in the wheel wells. But, all the clips are in and test fit with the lines.

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Here are pics of Katie applying the sound deadener.




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Here are pics of the last few parts painted with sealer and color. View attachment 307122
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Not sure what you are doing with the e-brake. They were originally natural in color and the lever was masked off and painted black . The upper portion generally rusted to varying degrees. I have a few in stock. You can shoot parts like that and others wet on wet. Apply your epoxy reduced, let flash well. I ve shot the e brake with Cast Blast. When that flashes well, mask off the arm and shoot the black...al in one session.
I just blasted and painted side covers for a 72 Triumph wet on wet. No way was I going to let primer dry and have to scuff all those deep fins prior to topcoat. Have fun.
Not sure what you are doing with the e-brake. They were originally natural in color and the lever was masked off and painted black . The upper portion generally rusted to varying degrees. I have a few in stock. You can shoot parts like that and others wet on wet. Apply your epoxy reduced, let flash well. I ve shot the e brake with Cast Blast. When that flashes well, mask off the arm and shoot the black...al in one session.
I just blasted and painted side covers for a 72 Triumph wet on wet. No way was I going to let primer dry and have to scuff all those deep fins prior to topcoat. Have fun.
I dipped the entire assembly in a etching solution that leaves a metal oxide coating and removes all the rust. This particular assembly was dipped as a single piece and had the coating all along the bottom. I certainly went a little higher than the dipped lines.

I have a cast iron paint as well but, the oxide coating will hold up quite well inside the car.

I did think of shooting a flat clear over it but with the armature, gears, I was worried about coverage. Appreciate the options you provided though!
Tonight’s project! Hideaway headlights!


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May my prayers and the Force be with you.

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Does anyone know where to get the rivets for the RS headlamp motors?
I taught Katie how to drill the wheel well trim holes. Not hard but, a little tape really comes in handy


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It's got to be exciting moving into the assembly phase!
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If your fenders are replacements, they may not come pre-drilled for the splash guards (goes behind hide-a-ways) brackets. I learned after final assembly was complete that my brackets were missing and it’s dang near impossible to get a drill/bit to pop one hole location. I had to use a flex bit ext & still a difficult task. Just FYI from my experience & frustration to help y’all avoid similar issue.
I fit moldings and drill prior to paint. More efficient. Looks like your having fun.
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I fit moldings and drill prior to paint. More efficient. Looks like your having fun.
I agree with that process. We just forgot about them. We did fill the holes with a clear coat/base coat mixture. But, not nearly as good as drilling before paint.
Inner fenders are originals. So, we have the original staple holes to work with. I create SS hand made staples and poke them through dust shields.
Anyone know where to buy the dust shields that go over the power headlamp electric motors? I can’t find the ones we took off the car.
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