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Discussion Starter #1
I am having problems with the fit of my LS3 into my 67. I have a 67 Camaro that was a 327 car with a power glide. I have a LS with A TKO 600 kit I bought from Hurst Driveline, my engine mounts are the tall small block perches with Energy Suspension mounts. I have Holley Hooker super competition engine swap mount kit #12611HKR stock location. My first problem is the engine sits to far back. The perchs are installed correctly double checked, the right side valve cover just touches the fire wall, I figured I could switch out the mount for the Hooker mount 12624HKR 1/2" forward and my shifter would be almost centered in the tunnel, they make a 1 1/4" forward but it looks as if it will drop the motor just a bit and that brings me to me to my other problem. I have the Holley retro fit pan and it just touches my cross member I was wondering if anyone else has run across these issues and if so what you did to correct them thanks.
 

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Re: My LS3 dont want to fit in my 67

Can you take a picture of the mounts and post it? You need to use the short and wide frame mounts. Those hooker mounts are crap by the way. They place the engine too close to the firewall. I know this isn't what you want to hear but I would sell those and buy some ATS/Autokraft/S&P/Energy plates, Autokraft oil pan, and stainless works headers.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Re: My LS3 dont want to fit in my 67

I will take some pics when I get off work today. I bought a turn key package that came with the Hooker mounts, pan and Hooker headers. If I can use the headers and pan that would save me repurchasing them. I hope the pan isn't to tall in the front, the short wide frame mounts are those for the small block or big block.
thanks.
 

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You need the short and wide for the 350. But regardless, you will need to toss those hooker mounts. These cars have different tolerances from the factory and some people get them to fit and some don't. Do a google search about those mounts and you can see all of the issues people have. Most people either redrill them or return them.

Now assuming your engine can come forward an inch without your pan or headers hitting then you can get away with just changing the plates.

If your pan is going to hit or your headers are going to hit if you move the engine forward then its time to get rid of the hooker stuff and get something that you know will work (see my first post).
 

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OK I think I found the issue. Hooker has their parts mislabeled. Their mount that is labeled 1.25 forward is actually a "stock" location mount. See this pic:
http://www.holley.com/12623HKR.asp

Their mount that says "stock" for the location is actually a 1inch setback mount. See this pic: http://www.holley.com/12623HKR.asp

Here is a carshop setback mount. Compare the 2 pics http://carshop.carshopinc.com/product_info.php/products_id/98457/CSP2370

Here is the Autokraft "stock location http://www.autokraft.org/products/

You can see that on the stock location mounts that the top frame mount bolt uses the same hole as the front top block mount hole.

What your looking for is where the top of the triangle is for the frame mounts. The single bolt hole.

That being said.. You need this mount to make your engine not hit the firewall. http://www.holley.com/12623HKR.asp It says its a forward mount but Holley has it mislabeled.
 

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I also ran into the same problem, if you have access to a metal or fab shop I would build my own. I used 3/4 plate and transfered to engine bolt pattern to it, which also allowed me to use the factory pan and original small block engine mounts.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
My motor mounts are the Energy Suspension 3.1114G short and wide, the width is 2 5/8 I talked to Classic Industries tech and they said I have the tall perches. The Perch on the right side measures 2 3/16 from cross member to bolt center and perch over all height is about 2 7/8 total height with mount installed is about 3 7/8 the adaptor plate is 3/8. The front of my Hooker pan from the block down is about 2 3/8 seems larger than some others.
John510 I think you are on to something the 1.25 is stock the location by looking at the other brands. So if I went that route I should get my fire wall clearance but I need to gain about 1/4'' some how for pan clearance or a different pan.
 

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My motor mounts are the Energy Suspension 3.1114G short and wide, the width is 2 5/8 I talked to Classic Industries tech and they said I have the tall perches. The Perch on the right side measures 2 3/16 from cross member to bolt center and perch over all height is about 2 7/8 total height with mount installed is about 3 7/8 the adaptor plate is 3/8. The front of my Hooker pan from the block down is about 2 3/8 seems larger than some others.
John510 I think you are on to something the 1.25 is stock the location by looking at the other brands. So if I went that route I should get my fire wall clearance but I need to gain about 1/4'' some how for pan clearance or a different pan.
Easy solution. Buy the mounts that bring it forward a tad and up about 1/4" then your pan should clear. These should help you:
http://dirtydingo.com/store/Muscle-...rsion-Engine-Mounts/c1_206_305_322/index.html

Im about to buy a set of those mounts to move my engine rearward 2 inches (firewall is clearanced for that)
 

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I have the Dirty Dingo's that I'm using on an LS swap in progress. They are a tad expensive, but I love them. Quality stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The company that I bought the turnkey kit from is going to send me a set of Transdapt mounts to try, They should move the LS forward but I doubt they will take care of my pan clearance. If they don't work I will purchases a set of Dingo's they look like the ticket.
 

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I had the dirty dingo sliders- they will not fit if using the fbody accessories. Not sure about other accessory drives, but the alt location would not allow me to mount the slider. I went with the dirty dingo double D mounts. They have 3 positions- nuetral/forward/back. I have used them on 3 LS swaps now in various positions and they work well. I had a clearance issue with the holley pan just as you pictured above. On 3 different stock subframe/stock perches (all on 69's) the driver side perch was slightly shorter than pass side. I solved the clearance issue by slightly dimpling the high spot on the cross member where the pan touched. And I dont mean mangling or butchering, lol. I then got some thick grade 8 flat washers & bolts. Used the washers under the frame stands to raise the motor slightly. I had about 1/8-1/4" clearance now between the pan & crossmember. Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Just a quick update. The company I bought the turn key package has been really good helping me out with switching out parts so far to try and make this beast fit. First I switched out the Hooker mounts for the 1 1/4 forward and that moved me a little too far forward and my left header without the gasket just hitting the pitman arm on the steering box. The pan had about 1/16 clearance on the drivers side just like yours Z06. Now I have the Dingo sliders installed and they clear my accessories. My pan clearance is about the same and my TKO 600 hits the top of the tunnel, I haven't had time to check header fitment yet maybe tomorrow. What do you guys think the max angle should be for the engine? I am currently at about 4.5 I thought about cutting the mount off of my rear cross member and lowering it down, it wouldn't be to difficult just worried about getting to much angle on the engine. I will need to shim my Moser rear end and Hotchkiss suspension it's at 0 degree right now. I kind of like the Idea of heating and tapping down the small lip on the drivers side of the cross member. My other option would be get a Auto Kraft pan and try custom building some lower mounts to get the front of the motor down to help with trans clearance but that sound like a bunch of work.
 

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Doug's LS conversion mount plates and headers along with Mast Motorsports oil pan = no clearance problems at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The Dingo mounts are in. My drivers side header clears the steering box and I have clearance in the tunnel. I done some modifacation to the cross member and have 5/32 clearance from the pan, do you think this enough? My engine sits at about 4.5 degree.
 

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I was told 3* down or less was optimal. It sounds like your trans needs to be raised by shimming the trans mount or trans crossmember. Can you massage the front of the tunnel at all to gain some add'l clearance? Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I am going back under this morning. I worked the tunnel quite a bit yesterday, I think I might get a shim under the mount. and get close to 4 degrees if I am lucky but thats all there is in the tunnel.
 

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Hey Chuck really interested in how you make out with the tunnel intereface. if you had to guess how much your tunnel needed to move up how many inches do you think it would take? I'm in that process at the moment.......
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Tony V. I need to get the car back on the ground. I have it on stands right now than I can get a more accurate angle. The drive shaft should of been here Friday hope it comes today, Then I can see what I really have going on. I have the Hurst conversion kit and with the Energy trans mount that came with it, I needed about 3/4" more for it to fit. I found out Energy makes a new mount 3.1158 that can be ordered It's about a 1/2 shorter I called them direct for the part #, the suppliers new nothing about it, I think This could bail someone out that don't have an extreme angel already. I have gained about an inch after working on the tight areas in the tunnel I did a slight trim job where the shifter base can protrude into the car a little bit. I think I am about 4.5 on the motor trans with about 1/4" left for clearance. I think I could get close to 3 degrees if I could find some custom shorter motor perches to get the front of the motor down, than you would not need to do any cutting on the tunnel. Hope this helps. I will post more info when it comes in. If anyone knows of some custom perches out there please let me know thanks.
 

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In my 69, i'm running an aftermarket sub (an older wayne due). I started out at 5* down. I massaged the tunnel in a few places where it was tight- mainly right where the tunnel & firewall meet. I then raised the trans tailshaft as much as possible using a shim. That got me to 4* down. I then shortened & re-welded the perches down about 3/4". This got me to 3*. My sub was used when i got it & it was originally set up for a big block. I have done 3 more swaps with a stock sub since then & had to shim the perches to gain clearance between the pan & the sub (holley pan). I used the dirty dingo DD mounts on all the motors. They are supposed to put the motor in the stock location & angle, so I did not bother to check the angle (lazy, i know) I sold the 67 a year ago but put 5000 miles on it & never had any issues. I am working on my 68 firebird & my buddy's 69 camaro currently, so I have not driven either at speed yet. I am going to check the angle on both if we get any vibration. I don't weld, thus my fixes arent quite as high end as a top notch shop would do. I'm curious to see what you are able to work out, keep us posted. Scott
 

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Thanks Chuck, good luck on the project. i just bit the bullet and raised the tunnel 2", i was smoothing the firewall at the moment and decided why not....Please keep us informed on your progress. sounds like you have it well handled.
 
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