[derek_vh]

I currentli own a 1996 camaro z28 a/t, I want to make faster in the 1/4 mile, I want to know, wich are the best bang for the buck non internal extras, tips, anything that works. I currently hit 14.4 1/4 mile run completely stock. if you can help me i would apreciate it thanks. I talk spanish also .

 

[502pacecar]

Re: need 1996 lt1 tunning tips, convinations!!!

What worked for me was putting headers and a good exhaust system,also a better air induction system then the stock one.I would also look in too hypertech's power programer, it will reprogram you cars computer for a richer mixture and also harder shifts.


Rick

 

[derek_vh]

Re: need 1996 lt1 tunning tips, convinations!!!

What worked for me was putting headers and a good exhaust system,also a better air induction system then the stock one.I would also look in too hypertech's power programer, it will reprogram you cars computer for a richer mixture and also harder shifts.


Rick

thank you rick

 

[edd Gordon]

Re: need 1996 lt1 tunning tips, convinations!!!

I have a 96 SLP SS bone stock it ran 13:33 a couple of Years ago with radials. I would start with good ignition wires and new plugs and bypass throttle body coolant lines and 160 Degree Stat and reprogram computer. Headers would be next on the list. Check on the Fbody 4th Gen site they have lots of upgrade forums on there for the LT1. I am leaving Mine Bone Stock because it runs fast enough for Me. Good luck with Yours

 

[novaderrik]

i'd not put in a 160 t-stat. GM made them run hot for a reason, and if it never gets up to temp, it will always run way rich- like having the choke always engaged on a carburetor. remember, when it comes to making power- lean is mean.
my only experience on these cars was a friend's 95 Z. we put a Flowmaster cat back kit on it, and some headers with the cat converter deleted, and it seemed like it gained 50 hp. then we put the K&N cold air kit on it, and it felt like another 25 hp. once we put new wires and plugs in it, it also got way better mpg than it did stock, too. the thing was actually scary fast. at anything under about 30 mph, it would just obliterate the tires and get all sideways if you got on it. hell, it even gained a little snappiness when we put the aluminum driveshaft on it.

 

[derek_vh]

thanks mates, well as I can see, i allready bought a hypertech power programer this week , left my stock thermostat, Im probably gonna do the tb bypass, buy a cat back, and probably soon a set of headers, and gears. thanks by the way avery body for the tips.

 

[502pacecar]

I think Hypertech recommends you put in the lower t-stat when you program it.
Good luck with the headers I lost alot of skin putting them in.

Rick

 

[redcamaro]

I would suggest selling the Hypertech and getting a mail order tune. Someone like MadZ28 or pcmforless.com would be perfect. Headers are the single biggest bang for the buck. Longtubes (which won't pass emissions) are a proven 20-25rwhp. An intake is worth some and a tune as mentioned above is a great addition too. With simply headers, an intake, exhaust cutout and drag radials a friend's 97 Z28 M6 went [email protected] Once your past the bolton phase, a cam would be the next improvement. These can be worth upwards of 50rwhp depending on which one you go with.

 

[derek_vh]

I would suggest selling the Hypertech and getting a mail order tune. Someone like MadZ28 or pcmforless.com would be perfect. Headers are the single biggest bang for the buck. Longtubes (which won't pass emissions) are a proven 20-25rwhp. An intake is worth some and a tune as mentioned above is a great addition too. With simply headers, an intake, exhaust cutout and drag radials a friend's 97 Z28 M6 went [email protected] Once your past the bolton phase, a cam would be the next improvement. These can be worth upwards of 50rwhp depending on which one you go with.

in the cam part, I was thinking in a GM hitechperformance lt4 hot cam kit since its my DD. I would also like to send my ecu for a mail tune, but it is really hard and expensive since i live in guatemala city central america, so I would have to pay about $450 just to send it to the us!!! so probably i would prefer to buy a used one on the us and send it there, and then send here to guatemala! it sucks not living in the us! ajajja

 

[redcamaro]

in the cam part, I was thinking in a GM hitechperformance lt4 hot cam kit since its my DD. I would also like to send my ecu for a mail tune, but it is really hard and expensive since i live in guatemala city central america, so I would have to pay about $450 just to send it to the us!!! so probably i would prefer to buy a used one on the us and send it there, and then send here to guatemala! it sucks not living in the us! ajajja

yeah, I didn't even think about what it would cost from outside the usa. Are there any performance shops that would do a dyno tune for you in guatemala? If so, that would be the way to go hands down for the ecm. As for a cam, the lt4 hotcam is alright, but it leaves a fair amount of power on the table. I would suggest a compcams 503 instead. It is 224/230 at .050 and .550 or so lift with 1.6 roller rockers. It pulls strong to 6200+ and should dyno in the 340 range with all the supporting modifications (headers, intake, exhuast etc.). A more aggressive grind would be a GM847. This wants to run to 6700, but if your brave enough it is about as fast as it gets on untouched heads. Keep in mind LT1s start spinning rod/main bearings in the 6500+rpm range, but some seem to get away with 6800...at least for a little while.

 

[derek_vh]

yeah, I didn't even think about what it would cost from outside the usa. Are there any performance shops that would do a dyno tune for you in guatemala? If so, that would be the way to go hands down for the ecm. As for a cam, the lt4 hotcam is alright, but it leaves a fair amount of power on the table. I would suggest a compcams 503 instead. It is 224/230 at .050 and .550 or so lift with 1.6 roller rockers. It pulls strong to 6200+ and should dyno in the 340 range with all the supporting modifications (headers, intake, exhuast etc.). A more aggressive grind would be a GM847. This wants to run to 6700, but if your brave enough it is about as fast as it gets on untouched heads. Keep in mind LT1s start spinning rod/main bearings in the 6500+rpm range, but some seem to get away with 6800...at least for a little while.

THANKS,,,,, UNFORTUNATELY THERE IS NO DYNO HERE, THERE USED TO BE A COUPLE BUT THEY ALL BROKE DOWN. on the cam part, i dont want a strip only cam, since its my daily drive car. the only one I own by now. probably in a year i can manage to buy another daily driver. since a performance cam will drop mi epa city high way m/G,,,,, i dont really want to go that far. also im racing in a stock v8 category here and your able to bend the rules a bit but that far, so i think a lt4 hot cam kit would by fair enough.

 

[Jeff H]

Cat-back exhaust, longtube headers & y-pipe, 160 t-stat(is needed to run maximum timing without pinging), MSD plug wires, MSD coil can't hurt, some form of cold air intake. Cam is a lot of work so if you do decide to do that get a cam that will make it worth it.

 

[redcamaro]

THANKS,,,,, UNFORTUNATELY THERE IS NO DYNO HERE, THERE USED TO BE A COUPLE BUT THEY ALL BROKE DOWN. on the cam part, i dont want a strip only cam, since its my daily drive car. the only one I own by now. probably in a year i can manage to buy another daily driver. since a performance cam will drop mi epa city high way m/G,,,,, i dont really want to go that far. also im racing in a stock v8 category here and your able to bend the rules a bit but that far, so i think a lt4 hot cam kit would by fair enough.

The hotcam will behave like an aggressive cam, without the benefit of the increased performance of some of the newer grinds. The hotcam is old technology. The Comp Cams 503 will behave better and make more power. There really is no reason to get a hotcam unless you just want the cheapest option. The kit is damn cheap, but for all the trouble of changing it out, might as well get something that is better.