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Now a tribute-1968(L30/M20) Z-28 Black stripes/white, 350, M22,12bolt. WIP since 8/1979
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Thanks for the URL SoCal805. The photo is a great help.
I must agree to do the measurement in the car. I had to cut my driveshaft, M22's come in different lengths.
 
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1969 Camaro Restomod
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Nothing wrong with aluminum drive shafts. Back whenI had my supercharged SVT Lightning it made nearly 600 RWTQ on the chassis dyno and that was the factory driveshaft on those sport trucks. Many of my Lightning buddies were making 700-800 RWHP and nearly 700 RWTQ with the factory driveshafts and running 9 second 145 mph quarters never had driveshaft problems. The ones that were making double that HP with single (1100) or twin turbos (1800) usually went with a custom aluminum or mostly carbon fiber driveshafts. All that being said, a well-balanced steel drive driveshaft should be fine for our street rides or some track outings.

Pix below is my friend Paul on his way to an 7.9/184 run. Amazingly, this truck is still street legal LOL.

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I put a Quick Performance 9" rear with billet 1350 input yoke in my 69 'vert. Short tailshaft TH350 tranny. Denny's built me a steel driveshaft with a slip yoke with 1330 u-joints (I guess the biggest available for that yoke) and 1350 u-joints in the rear. It fit perfect, no vibration, and it's one thing I do not have to worry about. Worth the money IMHO.
 

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If you're still looking for recommendations, I just bought mine from Strange, through Summit. 3 inch chrome moly with 1350 ujoints. $300, balanced and delivered in 10 days. Denny's is great, but had a 5 week wait.
Local shops wanted more.
 

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If you're still looking for recommendations, I just bought mine from Strange, through Summit. 3 inch chrome moly with 1350 ujoints. $300, balanced and delivered in 10 days. Denny's is great, but had a 5 week wait.
Local shops wanted more.
Can you provide a link?

$300 is considerably cheaper than "house brand" Summit, let alone with 1350 yokes
 

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I will take a look. To me it looks like a mark (scrape?), not a crack but worth a look
Not seeing it in this pic, same side as other pic....maybe its just a black fiber from my garage carpet
I mentioned it just in case, probably just a mark but it's best to play it safe.
 

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it says the DS needs to be balanced with whatever slip yoke you need..that you either buy from them or send yours to them

If going with 1330 or 1350 rear U joint you would need to swap out the corresponding pinon yoke on your rear end. What I did for my 1350 yokes on my Denny's DS on my Impala
 

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I had to wait for a while to get the Spicer pinion yoke I wanted so I used a transition ujoint for the time being.
 

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Denny built my Camaro DS which took about 2 months to get at the time. He said supply chain issues were huge for them saying Spicer kept pushing back orders for 2 more months. Covid ripple effect on supply chain

While I initially ordered a standard 3" 1310 AL DS....He built mine with what he had which was 1330 & 3 1/2" AL tube as he said Spicer was telling him another 2 months at that time (about 6 months ago) for parts

It appears the parts roadblock is opening up some now
 

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I believe you can benefit from a aluminum driveshaft more if its in conjunction with a aluminum flywheel. The flywheel selection will have more overall effect. For street cars its recommended that you use a steel flywheel to help gain inertia to move the vehicle.
For slightly modified & moderate horsepower application a 3" steel driveshaft that's balanced correctly will suffice, after all these cars with big blocks came with 1310 u joints and were steel.
I needed a driveshaft for my Tremec conversion and rather than cut down my original driveshaft and re-balance I ordered one from this place for 267.27 delivered, came with 1350 and a 1350/1310 conversion joint, balanced. I haven't had the engine up in the RPM's yet cause its just broken in to see about the vibrations.
Once the new rear end goes in I'll get the Strange chrome moly one with the forged weld ends ends

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FWIW I have run my 4200 LB car down the 1/4 mi over 1000 times with a 3.5" AL DS with 1350 yokes (Dennys) making 400rwhp/418rwtq through a T56 running a MT ET Slick. The McLeod Twin Disc clutch is not forgiving....no problems. Billet flywheel, 31 spline hardened axles and Diff girdle

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Nothing wrong with your setup at all but if you had an aluminum flywheel your engine would probably rev quicker because there is less power needed to accelerate the flywheel thus in turn the driveshaft to operating RPM There are pro's and cons to everything but for a street car clutch manufacturers generally recommend steel flywheels for vehicles over 2800 lbs.
 

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Even though the rear brakes don't do much, for autoX, I wonder if an aluminum flywheel gives you a shorter braking distance?.
 
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