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I currently have 1955-62 1.72/1.50 60cc chamber (265 and 283) heads on my 327 and have been looking for something to replace with. I just came across the following, can I get some opinions on how these would work for me?(Stock 327, performer manifold,edel 4bl, headers)


Chevy Casting #3782461 Camel Back Heads 2.02 Intake 1.60 Exhaust

I read these could be either 1.94 or 2.02..How can I tell? He claims they are 2.02's.....

Will these bolt right up and wake up my little small block?
 

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These are decent heads but no accessory holes I believe. By the time you do all necessary work on them , you spent the price of better aftermarket heads like Dart or alloy heads. Need to determine what your long term goal is on this motor as you can move your heads to any future motor. What do you plan on doing with this motor/car?
 

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The car is just a driver. I plan on keeping into summer and then selling and moving up.

What exactly are the accessory holes for? The heads are off of a running engine... What would I need to do to them before I used them?
 

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The heads I have now dont have the acc holes either so I dont think this is an issue.

What would I need to do to check that these are 2.02's ?

They are off a running engine, can I just pull them and reinstall?
 

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A set of out of the box vortec heads would make more power IMHO. How much are you looking to invest in the heads you are now looking at? New vortecs can be had for around the $500 range. You would have to invest another $250 or so for the different intake and a set of valve covers, but it would be worth it. The smaller 1.94/1.50 valves and heart shaped combustion chambers would work well with the 327, keeping the air velocity up for more low-mid range torque.
 

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I can get the heads complete for 200 and they should bolt up to everything I already have.
The engine is on a stand, i heard it run and now he has the intake & exhaust off...

What should I look for to make sure there arent any issues?
 

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If they are in a runner...let the vechile stand for an hr or so the fire up..watch for a puff of smoke at fire up..sure sign of worn valve guides
take note what the upside of the plugs are..mark with a felt tip pen...Pull the plugs
Dirty side at the top indicates valve gguides, dirty side down rings.
Run a hydrocarbon test on the radiator..check for cracks/head gasket issues.
Check plug threads are in good condition
Check sideways wear on the push rods and head push rod holes...these holes are also the guides, if worn u will have to use after market push rod guides or late model 1:5 rockers that have little bumps the valve stem fits between (cant rem the right name of these rockers)

Short of pulling the heads measuring valves and crack testing the above is basically it

Before installing pay to have the heads surface scrimmed to make sure they are flat

No monting holes is not an issue for the bottom alternater...out of a scrape piece of 3mm plate shape a lower bracket to fit the 2 lower left water pump bolts, and the bottom alternator bolt goes thru this bracket...solid and doesnt move.
 

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I can get the heads complete for 200 and they should bolt up to everything I already have.
The engine is on a stand, i heard it run and now he has the intake & exhaust off...

What should I look for to make sure there arent any issues?
I would give the valve faces a good visual, look for a valve more recessed into the head than others. Look for combustion trails and heat trails. Don't expect them to look perfect, but when you see something let out a deep ugh and don't say anything else.:) Wiggle the valve stems and peer at the seals. Lay the head on it's side and take diesel or water and fill the intake ports while watching for leakage at the valve face. A few drops is normal, you're watchin for a stream but if you see a drop point at it and say ugh again:). On the exhaust side you have to stuff a rag into the crossover if it has one going to the intake side. If you find one that leaks it may be from a piece of carbon on the seat or the valve/seat may need ground...either way it makes the head less than perfect and you can bargain for a better price. (When you get the head home, if you found a leaker repeat the procedure but take a hammer and tap the valve open a few times to rinse the seat off. If it still leaks tap the valve face dead center a few times and see if it stops.)Lay a straightedge across the gasket surface. If you know a machine shop that does a buncha head work ask them if they have a 1.94 and a 2.02 junk valve they can give you to take and put up against the intakes to verify what you have. If not a tape measure works but it's hard to get accurate. A pocket machinist measure works pretty good, and they are cheap.

If his engine sounded good and didn't smoke, and you don't find anything scary take them home for 150(cuz you need 50 for gaskets:)) and clean em up and put em on and go.

Good luck.
 
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