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Hey guys, I really need any help I can get. Tried starting my 1994 Camaro z28 after it has sat for a few months and battery is brand new, lights come on and are strong, and all gauges read but oil (not sure if oil gauge starts to register a reading until after engine starts running or not). When i put the key in and turn there is no security light, but there is also no noises what so ever but the fuel pump coming on. I have not modded the car engine or electrically wise, i do have an aftermarket Audiovox Prestige APS 785 alarm system with remote start, it also has the ability to cut the starter off. The car alarm opens and closes the door locks, but the remote starter part is not working either, when it did it would beep and then the car would crank over. But now when i hit the remote start it does absolutely nothing.
Sorry for the long post but I need as much help as possible because ill be trying to get it started on my days off and the car is in upstate New York where I get no internet service at all, so I need to be as prepared as possible before I go up there.
Thank you for any help any one can give, in advance, i trully need the insight cause its driving me nuts and i want to put the car on the road. - Dan
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94 teal z28, LT1, A4, 4.11's, flowmaster cat back, vortech elbow,TB airfoil, t-tops,

 

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Try replacing the batteries in your remote starter fob. I would bet your issues are with the car alarm disabling the starter system.

alan
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for replying Alan, but im not sure what fob is. If it is the alarm system how can I go about correcting the problem?
 

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A "fob" is just something on your keychain, in this case, the little alarm armer/disarmer. The fob's batteries might be exhausted, in which case, it can't send out a dis-arm signal.
[You may be able to test this by seeing if the car "beeps" and locks, and unlocks, from a bit of a distance. 20-30 feet? Okay, I see you've tried that and it works, good.] [You have also tested the battery and its ground by turning on the headlights, good.]
One thing I can't assess is if the old battery died during the winter and the car sat, would the alarm have kept all of its codes? You might check the alarm manual on that one.
I too think the problem is in the alarm system; I had all of my tail-lights fail from alarm relays just getting old and tired ... in two years.

There's no oil pressure until the engine is spinning, no worries on that.

It has a remote starter capability, you try that, it doesn't work. Hmmm. I wonder if there's a relay interrupting the starter signal in there...

Something is interfering with the battery's +12 to the starter solenoid.

It looks something along these lines:

Battery +12 -----> Fuse ----> Starter KeySwitch ---> Transmission Safety Switch ----> Clutch Safety Switch > Alarm Kill Starter Relay ----> Starter Solenoid
(If it's an automatic, you don't have a clutch, etc.)
First, check the fuse.

The transmission safety switch only allows you to engage the starter if it's in Neutral or Park. Put the Emerg. brake on, and try holding the starter keyswitch to START and wiggle the transmission selector around Park and around Neutral. If it tries to start, that switch is out of adjustment. I can only start my Camaro in certain positions when its in Neutral, for instance.

What is supposed to happen is the +12 reaches the starter "solenoid". It's just a big electromagnet. This does two things: It moves the cogs of the starter to engage the flywheel to spin the whole engine, and it closes a *huge* switch to the really thick cable of the battery, since hundreds of amps of current are going to flow. (If it was weak, you'd hear click-click-click, since the starter solenoid pulls enough current that a weak battery can't hold it extended.)

Hey ... try turning on the headlights with someone watching, and turn the key to START. Tell me if anything changes.

You could "hotwire" the car by directly connecting Battery +12 to the starter solenoid, -BUT-, if you look at the solenoid, there is a forest of wires there, all there for good reasons, and you'd be feeding +12 to them... which is not good at all. You'd burn something up.

If you're really patient and have time, go get the wiring diagrams on this car, and a Radio Shack Volt-Ohm Meter, start at the battery, and trace out the starter side until you find where the starter signal dies. Or, trace backwards from the starter. It's a little tight under these cars! Be very very careful you don't accidentally start the car while doing this.

I hope this helps some.

-- Thanks,

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Wow, Dave seriously thanks for the information thats really cool of you. Im from New York so getting help from someone you dont know, and to that extent blows my mind haha. I got alot to test with all the things you explained. Im going to try it right now, ill let you know what i discover. Thanks again I appreciate it.
 

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I'm happy to help. I'm in Colorado, and I've had my share of dead cars to start.

(You know... what it really is... is I've goofed a number of ways over the years, and I remember the goofs really clearly, especially the spectacular ones. For some reason this is called "experience" instead of "one idiocy after another add up to ... well, what?". )

For example, it's a bad idea to run thick ammeter wiring over an exhaust manifold that will melt its insulation, then dead short the wire, and fill the car full of cheerful, happy ... smoke. My parents were quite uncheerful and unhappy.

When putting a new intake manifold on a car with a friend, if you come up short one bolt, and your friend's little brother is around, just assume he has done the worst, rather than think the bolt fell into one of those "it's gone" places in the frame. The sound of the intake valve jammed open by a bolt is interesting.

I don't even want to tell the story about, if you accidentally put +12 onto the starter solenoid lead, another wire on the starter will supply voltage to the ignition coil, and it'll really try to start the car. This can be ... much too interesting... in a manual transmission car that's in gear. (That's why those switches are in the starter-key path, to keep you from starting it except in Neutral/clutch in).

It's a wonder my parents didn't send me to the French Foreign Legion, come to think of it. No wonder they're still a little twitchy.

*grin*

Dave
 

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Hey Guys:

I certainly don't know much about this stuff, however like Dave, from experience, I have learned that alarm systems, etc. can cause all sorts of quirky problems when they don't work correctly. Have you tried to just disconnect the entire alarm system/keyless entry/remote start from it's power source and see if the motor will crank?
 
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