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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Not really. But it’s imperative to have a fully charged battery when troubleshooting the charge system.
You car does NOT have console gauges does it?

Does anyone know should the negative side of the battery be grounded straight to the starter vs we have it grounded to the engine block right up by the battery?
 

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Wayne, 1968 camaro rs, 350 , 4- speed
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Yes, that clip should be bolted to one of the bell housing bolts. Usually near the opposite side of starter , it keeps the wires away from the heat of the exhaust.
Also the ground wire from the battery Usually is bolted to the block near the front. But also there should be a ground strap on the rear of the block that goes to the body.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Yes, that clip should be bolted to one of the bell housing bolts. Usually near the opposite side of starter , it keeps the wires away from the heat of the exhaust.
Also the ground wire from the battery Usually is bolted to the block near the front. But also there should be a ground strap on the rear of the block that goes to the body.

Thank you! Think we have that all correct. Still cannot get the alternator light to go off. Or keep the car running when we disconnect the neg side of battery. It starts up great. And runs great. Just won't stay running. We are so confused as to what is going on.
 

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Thank you! Think we have that all correct. Still cannot get the alternator light to go off. Or keep the car running when we disconnect the neg side of battery. It starts up great. And runs great. Just won't stay running. We are so confused as to what is going on.
Please stop disconnecting the battery with the car running.
 

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Al - Waterloo, Iowa
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Can you explain why? How else do we see if it's not being charged?
You answered that question yourself in post #18. It's not charging. At this point just replace the voltage regulator with a solid state as I posted before. It's ~$20. You could take the alternator to a parts house and have it tested just to be sure it's good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
You answered that question yourself in post #18. It's not charging. At this point just replace the voltage regulator with a solid state as I posted before. It's ~$20. You could take the alternator to a parts house and have it tested just to be sure it's good.
So earlier you gave two diff ones. Tuff Stuff 7635 and now solid state. Which is better?
 

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Al - Waterloo, Iowa
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Discussion Starter · #37 ·

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Now a tribute-1968(L30/M20) Z-28 Black stripes/white, 350, M22,12bolt. WIP since 8/1979
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Is the top center screw that holds the dash cluster missing? Just a thought. It's a ground.
 
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