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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Is the top center screw that holds the dash cluster missing? Just a thought. It's a ground.
The screw is not missing. But should there be a wire on there?

We have a new horn relay, new voltage regulator...and voltage regulator capacitor and new ignition switch coming to install. If none of those fix it... we will be completely lost. As we have already replaced all that. But trying it again.
 

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Now a tribute-1968(L30/M20) Z-28 Black stripes/white, 350, M22,12bolt. WIP since 8/1979
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The screw is not missing. But should there be a wire on there?

We have a new horn relay, new voltage regulator...and voltage regulator capacitor and new ignition switch coming to install. If none of those fix it... we will be completely lost. As we have already replaced all that. But trying it again.
There is a metal strap that is connected to the flexible circuit board. I've had a problem in the past but I do not remember what it was, maybe the alternator light was on.... just not sure.
 

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Now a tribute-1968(L30/M20) Z-28 Black stripes/white, 350, M22,12bolt. WIP since 8/1979
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Post # 19 I gave simple detailed instructions with a simple Voltmeter and jumper wire. They seem to want to just keep replacing parts instead. Can't help those who won't listen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Post # 19 I gave simple detailed instructions with a simple Voltmeter and jumper wire. They seem to want to just keep replacing parts instead. Can't help those who won't listen.
Thanks buddy for the encouragement. If you would read above before making snide remarks. We had replaced it w a brand new one. And I said we have another one on order. We want to replace all the few remaining parts that could be in question. And start it up one time. So as to not ruin the new parts. It's not that we are not listening. And we are not amateurs at this. If you only knew the amount of NEW parts we have ordered. That are bad when we get them. It's been hard to keep up with. We will try to do your test...if we are still not getting the light out.
 

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Thanks buddy for the encouragement. If you would read above before making snide remarks. We had replaced it w a brand new one. And I said we have another one on order. We want to replace all the few remaining parts that could be in question. And start it up one time. So as to not ruin the new parts. It's not that we are not listening. And we are not amateurs at this. If you only knew the amount of NEW parts we have ordered. That are bad when we get them. It's been hard to keep up with. We will try to do your test...if we are still not getting the light out.
Test first then replace
 

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Thanks buddy for the encouragement. If you would read above before making snide remarks. We had replaced it w a brand new one. And I said we have another one on order. We want to replace all the few remaining parts that could be in question. And start it up one time. So as to not ruin the new parts. It's not that we are not listening. And we are not amateurs at this. If you only knew the amount of NEW parts we have ordered. That are bad when we get them. It's been hard to keep up with. We will try to do your test...if we are still not getting the light out.
That's not the way to repair a charging system Keep replacing parts to see what fixes it. You take offense I'm trying to help you with a simple procedure. But you just keep.saying I replaced this I replaced that . Looking for a magic answer. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
That's not the way to repair a charging system Keep replacing parts to see what fixes it. You take offense I'm trying to help you with a simple procedure. But you just keep.saying I replaced this I replaced that . Looking for a magic answer. Good luck.
It was not just the charging system. We are restoring the whole car to put up for sale. Started at the gas tank and worked our way forward.
 

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Thanks buddy for the encouragement. If you would read above before making snide remarks. We had replaced it w a brand new one. And I said we have another one on order. We want to replace all the few remaining parts that could be in question. And start it up one time. So as to not ruin the new parts. It's not that we are not listening. And we are not amateurs at this. If you only knew the amount of NEW parts we have ordered. That are bad when we get them. It's been hard to keep up with. We will try to do your test...if we are still not getting the light out.
What Ernie was trying to tell you was, if you would just use his testing method, that would tell you what is working and what is not. The idea is to test it first, figure out what part is faulty, and replace it. This would save you time and money instead of just buying one of everything it "could" be, waiting for those parts to arrive, and installing them. And, you should be installing them one at a time because if you put all those parts on at once, and your light goes off and it's charging, you won't really know what part was faulty. So, changing one part at a time is time consuming as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
What Ernie was trying to tell you was, if you would just use his testing method, that would tell you what is working and what is not. The idea is to test it first, figure out what part is faulty, and replace it. This would save you time and money instead of just buying one of everything it "could" be, waiting for those parts to arrive, and installing them. And, you should be installing them one at a time because if you put all those parts on at once, and your light goes off and it's charging, you won't really know what part was faulty. So, changing one part at a time is time consuming as well.
We would agree w that 100%. But what u don't get is...they were all already replaced one at a time and then this started. Today we will be replacing the horn and horn relay. As we have been told this is a common problem and that this runs thru the horn relay. So we will see when we fire it up later today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 · (Edited)
We just fired it up. After adding the other new ignition switch. Voltage regulator. And capacitor. And new horn and horn relay. And the generator light is still on. And all these parts have been replaced previously....one at a time. And just now replaced again. Anyone have any ideas?

We also just disconnected the alternator and fired the engine and the generator light stays on.
 

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In your 4th picture of the back of the alternator, you have a black wire attached to a nut on the alternator and then to what looks like a bolt on the engine alternator bracket at the header. My 68 does not have that jumper wire and works correctly. What happens if you disconnect that wire?
 

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We would agree w that 100%. But what u don't get is...they were all already replaced one at a time and then this started. Today we will be replacing the horn and horn relay. As we have been told this is a common problem and that this runs thru the horn relay. So we will see when we fire it up later today.
I do get it. Apparently what "you" don't get is, that same test Jaytm explained to you should tell you what component is faulty whether they were already replaced or not. Whether all those parts were old original ones, or brand new out of the box. That's the point. What are you going to do next, buy a new alternator and battery and replace the ones that have been replaced already?
 

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Might be worth double checking, but make sure both of these wires are pushed all the way in and seated in the connector. I had a similar problem with the light and the battery not charging and it turned out one of the wires had pulled back just far enough to loose contact


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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
In your 4th picture of the back of the alternator, you have a black wire attached to a nut on the alternator and then to what looks like a bolt on the engine alternator bracket at the header. My 68 does not have that jumper wire and works correctly. What happens if you disconnect that wire?
Might be worth double checking, but make sure both of these wires are pushed all the way in and seated in the connector. I had a similar problem with the light and the battery not charging and it turned out one of the wires had pulled back just far enough to loose contact


View attachment 294273 .
Thanks for this. We did check that already. Was not the case.
 
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