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Discussion Starter #1
I bought a new brake booster from Year One

http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/fbshopmain2.asp?input=bg111&SM=1&SC=8

and a master cylinder from Classic Ind.

https://www.classicindustries.com/controller.cfm?type=product&action=productDetail&productId=101286&productSearchCatalogId=1


The new brake booster push rod (the one that contacts the back of the master cylinder, not the part attached to the pedal) is slightly longer than my old brake booster rod was. The problem now is, my brakes drag constantly because the master cylinder piston doesn't get to retract fully.

The new brake booster came with two rods. According to their website, one short one and one long one. I can't tell which one is loose and which one is in the unit already.

My question is: how do you remove the pushrod from the brake booster? I've never done this before and don't want to screw it up.

I kept my old brake booster and may try and use the pushrod out of it.

Thanks Everybody -

Mark
 

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Just pull it out. It's only held in by the resistance of the o-ring.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Okay, problem discovered, but not solved:

The short pushrod that's in the brake booster is the same size as the old one in the old booster. However. the distance (gap) between the tip of the pushrod and the mounting surface on the booster where the mas. cyl. attaches is not the same:

The old booster had 6mm
The new one has zero.

That's the problem, but how do I solve it? Can the travel length of the pushrod be adjusted with the rod that attaches to the brake pedal? I'm thinking it can't, because doesn't that one only adjust the actual pedal travel and not the pushrod travel ?

Whaddya think? Thanks.
 

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Pushrods were a different length on my replacement as well. And thats all I did to counterbalance the different lengths was adjust the brake pedal adjuster thingy!
 

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The pedal rod adjustment has absolutely nothing to do with the front pin length.
If the front pin is too long, and all the after market 11" boosters have been coming with these for awhile now, you can either put some flat washers between the master and booster to gain the needed clearance or grind the round end to shorten the pin to the appropriate length. There should be about .030" clearance between the master plunger and the end of the pin.
 

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Well the pedal rod adjustment has nothing to do with the pin length as long as your pedal rod is not too long and pushing the pin out (like when your pressing the brake pedal)...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I checked the pedal rod and it is adjusted all the way back. So, the pedal is not pushing the pin out. I also put the old pin and the new pin side by side and they are within millimeters of being the same length. The problem lies inside the booster, where the pin does not sit as far back as it did on the old booster. This indicates to me, that they didn't measure very carefully when they started making these new boosters.

I'm not wild about the washer-idea, as that will leave a noticeable gap between the master cylinder and the booster. I guess I will try and grind down the new pin. No one should have to be doing that, imo. Where is the Quality Control in these expensive parts (a rhetorical question) ???
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks Paul. I ground down nearly 1/4" to get it to match the same depth as the old master cylinder. Re-installed and it works great now. I'm still pissed about this, though. I drove my car about 60 miles before I discovered the right front caliper was hanging up because of the too-long pin. No doubt I've lost a ton of brake pad and maybe a warped rotor out of it. With this not being an isolated incident, they really should recall these or at least include an apology with their sub-par product : (

Thanks all for the help; without this forum, I'd be sunk !
 

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I'm doing this now. I replaced fairly new caliper on front thinking I didn't drive car enough and the piston stuck in place. Turns out my booster rod is too long still as I too bought chrome aftermarket master. Too boot the master depressed too long and dripped fluid all over freshly painted booster
 

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Ground mine down yesterday... agree, shouldn't have to.
 

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Hi All

After reading this Blog, I took the New Master Cylinder off
Replaced my Power Brake Booster/ Master Cylinder, Bought from Ground up, Came from "The Right Stuff".

My New Master Cylinder Pushrod is about .045" Shorter than my Original.

Took a Pic of the Difference.

Thanks
Timmy
 

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Hi All

After reading this Blog, I took the New Master Cylinder off
Replaced my Power Brake Booster/ Master Cylinder, Bought from Ground up, Came from "The Right Stuff".

My New Master Cylinder Pushrod is about .045" Shorter than my Original.

Took a Pic of the Difference.

Thanks
Timmy
Hi All
OK - As an update, went to Bleed the Brakes last night with my Son, could not get any Fluid out of the Bleeders on the M/C.

I remembered when I installed the M/C, it ran up to the end of the Push Pin and stopped, was like 3/16" from the Booster so I pushed it on and installed the Nuts.

That must be moving the "Cups" on the Piston Forward of where the Fluid flows in.

Will take apart tonight and Shorten the Rod looking for .030" of clearance for the Rod to Piston Dim. And take some pictures.

Timmy
 

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Reminder: that Brake Boosters inc does a great job of restoring original boosters! :)
 

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Reminder: that Brake Boosters inc does a great job of restoring original boosters! :)
Hi Gary
Yes, I looked into having my Original Booster done, Not worrying about all Original on my Car :)

Will take that stuff replaced after I am done, Clean up and have rebuilt and then sell to someone who needs that #'s matching/ Period correct items.

I have P/S Box, Starter, M/C and Booster.

Does Brake Boosters recondition Master Cylinders ?

Timmy
 

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Another 'great' reason to rebuild the original parts from your car is to avoid dealing with the junk people sell as reproduction!
 
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