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Discussion Starter #1
I decided to upgrade the rear brake on my 68 to disc brakes. I went with the rear disc conversion kit from Right Stuff since the previous owner of my car used their kit for the front brakes and I've been pretty happy with them.

The kit is advertised as a simple bolt on conversion.... however, I am going to need your help. For example, it says in step 2..


2) Remove the old Drum Brakes. (there are two options here.)
  1. "c" clip axels.
  2. Drop Out Axles
It essentially says to pull out the axles and remove the drum brakes. I don't know which type I have OR how to go about doing this.... Does anyone have a good reference guide that's available online (which photos) that can walk me through the conversion process? I've included a pic of my 10 bolt rear end if it is any help....

 

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You have c-clip axles.

First, put the rear in the air on jack stands. Remove the tires and brake drums. Pop the rear end cover off and drain the fluid. In the middle of the differential, you will see a round bar going through between where the ends of the two axles enter. Rotate until you find the small bolt going sideways through it. Loosen it and pull it back far enough so the round retainer post slides. DO NOT slide it all the way out and DO NOT rotate either axle.

With the round post pushed back, you can now push each axle in slightly and remove the C clip by sliding it out. Then you can pull each axle. The brake kit comes with a spacer that replaces the drum backing plate

With the axles out, you will see four bolts holding the drum backing plates to the axle flanges. Remove those and pull off the backing pates and shoe assemblies.

Slide the included spacer onto the axle and reinsert the axle opposite to the way you pulled it out. Reinstall the C clips and push the post back down and retighten the retaining bolt.

Once you get a look at it, it'll make sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, I found a video on YouTube on how to remove the axle by removing the c clips... Doesn't seem to difficult, however, I'm a bit hesitant because the video I saw mentioned that the bolt holding the pin in breaks off about 20% of the time requiring it to be drilled out.... If thats the case, I will be in a heap of trouble.......
 

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If it breaks just buy a 12 bolt.:D

If you're worried about it, use a propane torch to heat the area around the bolt a little. Sometimes people put red Loctite on it which requires heat to remove.
 

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this may be a silly question, but I thought that the fluid was flamable....?
The flash point of gear oil is higher than the little bit of heat you'd need. No reason to worry about that until you actually try removing the bolt.
 

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When putting the axles back in dont turn the hubs anymore than you absolutely have to - there are thrust washers in the gears that will fall out and are a bitch to put back in
 

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Another hint. You may need to push the axle in slightly in order to remove the C clip. No, don't heat the bolt, just use a good 6 point wrench to loosen the bolt.
 

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Does anyone know how much gear oil I should get and what kind is recommended? Thank you so much!
Get 3 qts just to be safe , you will probably use a little over two. If you have a posi, don't forget the additive. This is also a good time to replace axle seals and take a peek at your axle bearing rollers.

I did the same conversion with Right Stuff kit from Matts. I went a step further and ordered the rotor backing plates. They fit super, sure complements the kit.

You probaly got the kit with e-brake cables, I did and they fit like a glove. Remember you adjust your disc pad clearances with the equalizer bolt on the intermediate cable.
It may pay you the time to bleed the rear calipers off the right rotor (place a block of wood between pads) or tilt the caliper back enought to allow all air to come to top. Its a pain but it's the only way to get all the air out .

Clean up all pad surfaces with brake kleen. Smile when you stop.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Get 3 qts just to be safe , you will probably use a little over two. If you have a posi, don't forget the additive. This is also a good time to replace axle seals and take a peek at your axle bearing rollers.

I did the same conversion with Right Stuff kit from Matts. I went a step further and ordered the rotor backing plates. They fit super, sure complements the kit.

You probaly got the kit with e-brake cables, I did and they fit like a glove. Remember you adjust your disc pad clearances with the equalizer bolt on the intermediate cable.
It may pay you the time to bleed the rear calipers off the right rotor (place a block of wood between pads) or tilt the caliper back enought to allow all air to come to top. Its a pain but it's the only way to get all the air out .

Clean up all pad surfaces with brake kleen. Smile when you stop.
Don, thanks for the advice. What weight gear oil would you recommend?
 

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Don, thanks for the advice. What weight gear oil would you recommend?
I am using 85-90 for my area. I do not use sync oils but some guys do.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well guys... it is all installed and the brakes work great!

Strange issue though.....

With the car on jackstands, when I spin the rear wheels on the axle with no rotors or calipers, the wheels/tires spin perfectly straight.

When I spin the rear tires/wheels on the axle with rotors, they spin perfectly straight with the car in the air.

When I spin the rear tires/wheels with rotors and calipers the wheels slightly wobble. (In the air)

But, when I put the car on the ground and drive, the wheels are absolutely straight with no wobble at all.

Any ideas? I asked a mechanic friend of mine and he said that I shouldn't worry about it. We took it for a drive down the highway and there are no vibrations or wobble....
 
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