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Discussion Starter #1
Heres a run down -starter clicks two to four times before starting.I have replaced the ignition switch on top of the column,new battery and a new GM ministarter. This has been going on for a year now. It will start correctly once in a while and the clicking happens hot or cold. I'm running a MSD distributor and blaster coil, I have the starter wired--
Batt positive to big post on starter.
Purple from ignition switch to "S" terminal on starter,Batt negative to engine block.the yellow is run to the starters R terminal. Some have said in other posts that you dont need the yellow wire with HEI ignition, is this true and if so is this 8360 distirbutor one thats wired that way? I've bypassed the neutral saftey switch with no difference.:mad:

I really need Help to bring this issue to an end!!
 

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I'm assuming the solenoid clicks before the starter begins turning the engine.

The ignition has nothing to do with the starter so you don't have to think about that.

Sounds like a bad ground.

Clean the battery terminals. Try using one cable of a set of jumper cables to temporarily add a gound cable from the battery to the block. Test.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm thinking ground also. I have double checked the battery ground to the block but I'm thinking of running it directly to one of the starter bolts. Battery terminals are spotless. I may replace the cable itself but its not very old and I dont think its bad........I'll try the jumper..
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Update, I pulled the starter and cleaned the mating surface for a good ground, pulled the ground from battery to the block again to clean and put a new star washer on for good grounding and checked reshimed the starter also. Still getting occational clicking. Weird thing is it will start or click, whichever, when the ground wire from the battery is not even hooked up. Also took the small yellow wire off the starter since I'm running an HEI dist....So what should I check next????????
 

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Just a suggestion. Check to make sure you are getting 12V to the starter. Trace all the starter wires and see if any are frayed. Another idea is to change + battery cable.
 

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Good suggestions given. Both cables should be of 1 AWG.
Also, pull off the solenoid and the front cover of the solenoid to reveal the copper bolts and plate. If they have deep pits, you can turn the bolts and plate to new surface for better conductivity.

You can eliminate, for troubleshooting puposes, the ign START circuit by subbing a remote starter switch on screwdriver across BAT post and S teminal.

Your starter working without a ground cable is through another wire, possibly through the ground straps to body to pass fender to battery post and not a bad thing, but a clean connection from the engine block to battery is good as well as the body.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for responding....the mini starter is only two weeks old, I replaced the old original starter because it was doing the same thing. I'm going to get a longer battery ground and run it to a starter mounting bolt. I also am going to check voltage to the starter tonight. I guess I'll replace the Positive cable also but I have not had any trouble with any other electrical issues. I feel like I'm replacing parts with no results......
 

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A couple measurements you can do is to see/read the amount of voltage dropped between the two items due to cabling connections.

Place a meter lead on the battery post, not the clamp, and place the other lead on the stud/spade at the other end. This measurement reads the voltage loss by the connections of the terminals, the crimp of the terminal to wire, and the wire itself. Ideal results are less than 0.5 VDC total - post-to-post, so to speak. Do the same for both cables and wire brush all inclusive.

You can do the above measurement to any wire connection and should get the same results - less than 0.5 VDC loss, any measurement over 1 VDC requires further investigation.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks!! Ok will do that tonight. Also thinking the wire connection at the ignition switch.....I'll check that also but I'm sure I did that when it was replaced. I was told that the replacement ignition switches are not that great and it could be faulty out of the box but if I'm getting clicking at the starter would the switch have anything to do with it ??????
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Update--I checked the Pos. Bat. cable for voltage drop and there was no drop, checked voltage at the starter on the S post while trying to start, When the solinoid just clicked it was 8 volts, just enough to push the bendix gear to the flywheel but not engage. I then checked voltage at the ignition switch and it was 12v, moved to the neutral saftey switch and had 12v going in but coming out it did vary between 12v and 8v so I now have the saftey switch isolated for now to see if it eliminates the problem. I drove it enought to up to operating temps and have not had any issues yet.
I'll leave it for a while before replacing the switch just to be sure....
Thanks to all for the imput !!! I'll post after running for a while with a final determination..
 
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