[SoCal805]

67 Camaro, power drum brakes

need the Front L hard line from proportioning valve to the rubber line

I see "kits" but not finding just single line

 

[X-77 keith]

I have not seen single lines for sale. It is a short line. If you can get yours off without bending it, you could use it as a template to bend a new one. I like the NICAD lines. They bend/ flair easy. Needs to be double flaired.

 

[SoCal805]

I have bent lines before. Could get this one off without bending. Have a HF flare tool...not sure if its got the right flare part though

would need at least the fitting that goes into rubber line as it is getting rounded...even using a flare wrench

Will look to see if I can find a local brake line shop to make up a new one

now thinking my new made in china pos rubber lines don't mate well with the hard line flare....

but it is weeping from that connection and I am getting nothing but air when bleeding, especially the LF side. Rears are fine and PS front bleeds clean after a few pumps...but when I go back & forth on the front lines air bubbles come out PS

This all started when I replaced the rubber lines as the old ones were leaking and pedal started to get soft. Brake fluid drops on garage floor from the weeping lines.

Now I can't get the fronts to bleed after going through a qt of brake fluid

so its either the new rubber lines not mating well with hard line fitting or my seems to be very new (PO) MC/poster died suddenly when I swapped rubber lines...

 

[Sauron67MM]

I would call the company and ask. I have had numerous single lines shipped to me because they were incorrect. They are bent as orders are received. The proportioning valve of which you speak is located on the subframe, and depends on component application. The components under the master cylinder for power disc or drum are the distribution block and metering/hold-off valve. Info here: Camaro Brake Valves. If restoration accuracy is not your goal, just make your own line.

 

[SoCal805]

The proportioning valve of which you speak is located on the subframe, and depends on component application. The components under the master cylinder for power disc or drum are the distribution block and metering/hold-off valve. Info here: Camaro Brake Valves. If restoration accuracy is not your goal, just make your own line.

pics of my system

I do not have a metering valve, or proportioning valve on my sub-frame. I traced both front brake lines from distribution block and they both go direct to the rubber front brake lines



On my distribution block the line coming off the front (with loop bend in it) goes to front DS. The line that is closer to fender goes to Front PS. The line that goes towards engine is the rears



This is the hard line to rubber line union I have had trouble sealing. It was weeping and I assume the source of air in system when bleeding. I just used vice grips on it and got another 1/8 turn (had been using just my flare wrench). Pumped the brakes several times and checked it does not weep so "maybe" I have resolved the air in system issue. Will need to find another friend to help me bleed to see.

 

[X-77 keith]

Could be the new line leaking, but it can also be cross threaded. When those lines go bad your brakes usually stick. Soft pedal points to master cylinder. That one is a replacement anyway. You don't have the valve under the drivers side Seat area. Because you have drums in the front if I recall your first post.

 

[SoCal805]

Fitting is not cross threaded.

The old rubber lines were visibly leaking and pedal started to get soft. My assumption was the leaking lines were causing the soft, but working, pedal.

Replaced rubber lines and did 4 wheel bleed. Rears never had any bubbles. Fronts had a lot of bubbles and pedal never came back even when bubbles stopped coming out

Maybe the MC was starting to fail same time as rubber lines started leaking...IDK

Given the pedal starts to firm up during bleeding but then goes completely soft I am thinking this is more a MC issue now

The weeping fitting I tightened more as I had removed both new rubber lines to inspect the inner mating surface for the flare end fittings, they looked good. I must have not tightened the DS one enough on the re-install as it had a "slight" build up of fluid on its threads after bleeding attempt. I have since tightened it and pumped brakes and no more weeping from that fitting.

I had initially gotten the large bubbles typical of adding new rubber lines and wheel cylinders which after a few pumps turned into large amounts of fine bubbles that would go away after a few pumps but then return.....and not go away. This is just specific to the front brakes. Rears have always been clean fluid on bleeding, no bubbles.

Looks like a trip to NAPA for a new MC

 

[Brettallen59]

It's amazing just how THIN brake fluid is! I have had a brake fluid nightmare. Many different replacement fittings/lines and I finally read somewhere about Earl's Conical Seals, which seemed to by the answer in my case. Put one in the location between my rear fitting and the Distribution Block. So far it looks to be holding. One part number is: 169103ERL (Summit). I think it was John even mentioned a drop of oil on the fitting before assembly.

Brett.......

 

[SoCal805]

Well pre-Super Bowl yesterday I replaced the MC. Did bench bleed it first. Was rock hard using a plunging tool and could only press tool in maybe 1/8" when finished

During bleeding pedal would firm up but then just drop to floor. Went back & forth on the fronts getting more air out each time. Rears I get no bubbles but the fronts, especially DS took several passes

Now have pedal pressure but still a slightly soft pedal. No leaks at any line connection

I had adjusted the front brakes lose so I could pull drums and confirm the wheel cylinders (new) were not leaking. When I adjusted them it did take quite a bit of travel out of the pedal but it still seems a little soft.

I do have a Mighty vac but no fitting to go over the MC.

I did notice if I barely cracked the bleed screw (read maybe 1/16 of a turn) I got a clear stream of fluid vs just opening the screw up 1/4+ turn (always seemed to get bubbles this way) and better pedal pressure. Seemed like with the bleed screw open more than that air was getting back into wheel cylinder through the threads of the bleed screw.

Thinking I need to find a way to get the adapter to use a Mighty Vac or shop that has a pressurized bleed tool. Have bleed brakes a 100 times on many different cars both disc & drum and never had this kind of problem. The new MC (not a rebuild) at least I as able to get pedal back so that appears to have been the initial soft pedal issue but still not feeling good about current results

Not sure if booster could be the reason....

 

[davidpozzi]

When bleeding with a clear plastic hose, if the end of the hose is below the bleeder screw, it sucks air past the bleeder screw threads, giving a false impression the air is coming out of the system. Wrap the threads with teflon tape. The tape is also useful when vacuum bleeding but it often does not seal the threads 100%.