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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My Manley push rods are wearing from my guide plates and the ones I have says, For Use with Guide plates. I need a stronger brand like the steel they used on my original LT1 push rods. My LT1 push rods are too long for a roller cam. Any recommendations who sells 4130 chromoly?

Manley 25733-16

For Use with Guideplates: Yes
Pushrod Tube Diameter: 5/16 in.
Pushrod Material: Chromoly
Top Tip Style: Ball
Bottom Tip Style: Ball
Intake Overall Length (in): 7.200 in.
Exhaust Overall Length (in): 7.200 in.
One-Piece Pushrod: Yes
Oiling: Yes
Tapered: No
Tip Attachment: Formed
Top Tip Diameter: 5/16 in.
Bottom Tip Diameter: 5/16 in.
Wall Thickness (in): 0.080 in.
 

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Make sure you get the heat treated type.
 

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If you're abrading the sides of Manley pushrods while using them with guide plates, you either have a set that didn't get proper heat treat or you have some other misalignment problem. It's the heat treating that allows them to survive with guide plates. I've put thousands of 7000+ RPM runs on Manley and Manton pushrods that have been heat treated and I've never had an issue with abrasion.

If you're using aftermarket cylinder heads, the spacing may be a tad off. On those motors I use Isky adjustable guide plates to get the correct clearance.

I have my serious pushrods custom made to the correct length by Manton Pushrods in Lake Elsinore, California, (951) 245-6565, <www.mantonpushrods.com>. They make pushrods for all motors and their technical help is outstanding and their turnaround time on orders is fantastic.

Good luck,

c
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Their GM 2.02 heads. My stock LT1 PR have about 132k on them with no wear, just little discoloring where the guides were. The Manley's I have, 12 out of 16 are wearing. I can take a knife to the side wall and scrape into it. When I try this on my OEM LT1 PR, the knife just slides off because it's so hard. That's the way it sb. One of the Manley PR got bent at a 45* at the wear spot. I'm not impressed with 600 mi.
 

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I believe that your last post reveals the crux of the problem. I've been running LT1 motors for the last fifteen years in race cars and on the street and they definitely require application-specific guide plates if you are using non-self-aligning rockers. Guide plates from a traditional small block head will fit properly under the rocker studs but they do not properly align with the normal travel path of the push rods. I've had good success with running either self-aligning rockers without guide plates or non-self-aligning rockers with Iskenderian adjustable guide plates. Be sure to take the time to carefully align each individual guide plate with the push rod on that specific cylinder before you tighten them down. It's a time consuming exercise but necessary in order to avoid problems such as you describe.

It sounds as if you may already have an undetermined amount of hardened steel debris floating around in your motor. If you have magnets secured with epoxy in the oil return channels of your heads you probably caught most of it. The next line of defense would be a magnetic drain plug. Lacking either of those safeguards, you might be well-served to dissect your oil filter and try to find out where the junk went. It doesn't take much of that stuff to ruin a set of bearings and trash your whole motor.

Good luck,

c
 

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Their GM 2.02 heads. My stock LT1 PR have about 132k on them with no wear, just little discoloring where the guides were. The Manley's I have, 12 out of 16 are wearing. I can take a knife to the side wall and scrape into it. When I try this on my OEM LT1 PR, the knife just slides off because it's so hard. That's the way it sb. One of the Manley PR got bent at a 45* at the wear spot. I'm not impressed with 600 mi.
Scrape them with a knife? Not heat treated properly. Wrong push rods labeled as the correct ones. Doesn't matter what they are made of if not heat treated correctly.

Uhh, btw, those manley push rods you have now ARE 4130 chrome moly.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
4 out of 16 are still good. There is no mention in the description that these are 4130's.

Maybe my friend here that makes .50/hr and doesn't give a F about part numbers put the wrong parts in the box. He gets the last laugh at all the Companies that are having parts made in China. Ah-so!

 

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If you're abrading the sides of Manley pushrods while using them with guide plates, you either have a set that didn't get proper heat treat or you have some other misalignment problem. It's the heat treating that allows them to survive with guide plates. I've put thousands of 7000+ RPM runs on Manley and Manton pushrods that have been heat treated and I've never had an issue with abrasion.

If you're using aftermarket cylinder heads, the spacing may be a tad off. On those motors I use Isky adjustable guide plates to get the correct clearance.

I have my serious pushrods custom made to the correct length by Manton Pushrods in Lake Elsinore, California, (951) 245-6565, <www.mantonpushrods.com>. They make pushrods for all motors and their technical help is outstanding and their turnaround time on orders is fantastic.

Good luck,

c
This /\/\/\/\.

While you probably don't need Manton pushrods with your motor, they are exactly as described, an awesome piece with exceptional customer service.

I had Manton make pushrods for my new motor, they are not cheap but an amazing piece. People don't realize how important a pushrod is, a lot of valve train carnage could have been avoided with a good quality pushrod.

I'm surprised the Manley pushrods failed though, they are typically a quality piece.

I would price a set of Smith bros. or Manton PR for you application, they may not be that much more but will be well worth it.
 

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My walls are not black oxide finished. They are dull silver.
Black oxide does nothing for hardness. Cosmetic only. You sure on the part #? Those are your push rods if thats the correct part number unless they were mis-packaged.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Black oxide does nothing for hardness. Cosmetic only. You sure on the part #? Those are your push rods if thats the correct part number unless they were mis-packaged.
My builder ordered them cause the ones that came with the Lunati Roller kit were too long. I'll call him after the long wknd here and tell him the news. Not sure if we should try another set of Manley or go with Isky's 4130's. I don't want the same thing happen a 2nd time.
 
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