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Discussion Starter #1
I am in the process of installing a painless harness in my '68 and noticed there is no provision for an electric choke. I really don't want to run any wires from inside for this but the only key on 12v wire I can see on the engine side of the firewall is for the coil. Should I just tap the coil wire for 12v to the choke? I'm sure the choke is minimal draw but I'm running an HEI and want to make sure it gets the full 12volts. Anyone know of any other key on 12v sources on the engine side of the firewall?
Thanks,
MStarmer
 

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Just an opinion here, but both my buddy and I just recently disconnected our electric chokes (my Z and his SS Chevelle) and both cars still start fine and don't idle rough while the engine is sucking that raw fuel into the chambers and creating a smoke fog behind the cars. If the car is not going to be driven in real cold weather, I would say can the choke.

I had a mechanical automatic choke on my 67 SS Chevelle with my stock manifold. I put a Performer RPM on it and lost the ability to use the automatic choke and the now I have none and the car starts and runs fine.

So if you don't have a hot wire available, I wouldn't worry about even hooking it up unlesss you are driving in cold weather...even then it may be borderline whether needed unless the cold is extremes.

Hopefully someone else can answer your question if you are bent on hooking up the electric choke.

R. Stacho


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67 SS 396 Chevelle 350HP 4speed
70 SS 396 Chevelle 350HP 4speed
68 RS Z/28 302 350+HP? 4speed
 

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Do not connect to the coil wire for the choke. You could create unwanted ignition problems. There is a ignition switched hot wire in the wiper circuit. I used this for adding the choke to my '69.

TTFN
Mat
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I wouldn't mind using the wiper circuit but I don't know which one will be hot key on. I guess I could call painless and find out. I don't ever plan on using my wipers anyway.
MStarmer
 

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MStarmer, do you have a multi-meter to test these circuits? Even when someone tell you the proper colored wire, it pays to be able to verify the circuits and connections...If you don't have a multi-meter, get one ... it's the best thing to have when doing electrical work ...
 

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I put an electric choke on my '68 and it works great! I ran a wire from the fuse panel under the dash thru the rubber grommet in the fire wall by the steering. My fuse panel had an empty space labeled "ignition" which allowed me to fuse the line.

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68 convertible
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Called Painless today had a few other questions...I am using a one-wire powermaster alternator so I can use the brown regulator (excitor) wire since I would just be terminating and stowing it anyway. So far I am quite happy with the quality of the harness and the availability of accessories it allows. I really like the 50 AMP maxifuse to protect the whole system instead of electrical meltdown. My only complaint is that the kit although was supplied with insulated terminals they were not weather-proof sealing terminals. We use these at work which seal with adhesive when heated. They never vibrate loose or corrode. With the limited amount of connections I will be using these.
Thanks for the help,
MStarmer

[This message has been edited by MStarmer (edited 07-05-2001).]
 
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