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Discussion Starter #1
Well fellas, finally was able to get the party started today, and fire up my 1.5 year project. Would have been much easier had I not moved and had to put the half baked block into storage for 8 months last year, but who cares, its all good.

I'm running a hydraulic setup, so ran it for about 20 minutes today, varying the tach between 1500-2000. Initially I was running hot, and realized that my timing was way retarded. I was actually surprised that it started right up as I was about 12 degrees ATDC. Got the light out and settled on 10 degrees BTDC, and she runs like a top with 60lbs of oil pressure at first start, never rises above 190 degrees, and am about 700 RPM at idle. I'll have to post a video and pictures here soon. The only caveat that I had was a small oil leak out of the bottom side gasket of the fuel pump mounting plate, but no biggie. Also had to replace the Summit water pump at the last minute, as it had completely busted at the seam on the bottom side of the pump and was leaking like crazy. Just a predictable hazard when you buy parts in advance and can't test them out right away.

Anyhow, the engine is on a test stand right now, and am getting ready to rebuild my Muncie. The car is up on the lift, and won't be coming back down for a few weeks, which is when I'll install the new engine and complete the break in process.

So a couple of things. Should I go ahead and change the oil/filter now after 20 minutes of run time? Also, since I won't be installing the engine for a few weeks, should I start it up from time to time on the stand in the meantime, just to keep things fresh and lubed?

Thanks!
 

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If you have no reason to believe there is an issue I would leave the oil alone. On the other hand changing it for inspection is not an expensive option. I don't see any reason you need to start it until it's installed either. Cars are stored longer than a few weeks at a time with out being ran.

Based on what you wrote, I would leave it alone if it were mine.
 

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Being a new motor ,been in storage, been moved around, I would AT least, Pull the oil filter off and cut it open, look for anything like sparkles, dirt and stuff other than oil. Since its still gonna be a while until you go full ahead, I would change oil as well. Is your oil filter adapter plugged or allowed to bypass? Adapters that are not plugged , allow all oil and trash to bypass the filter momentarily, thus if you had any trash, it went back into the motor. Plugged bypass forces all oil thru the filter. Never know how many roaches were in that motor prior to startup.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Being a new motor ,been in storage, been moved around, I would AT least, Pull the oil filter off and cut it open, look for anything like sparkles, dirt and stuff other than oil. Since its still gonna be a while until you go full ahead, I would change oil as well. Is your oil filter adapter plugged or allowed to bypass? Adapters that are not plugged , allow all oil and trash to bypass the filter momentarily, thus if you had any trash, it went back into the motor. Plugged bypass forces all oil thru the filter. Never know how many roaches were in that motor prior to startup.

Adaptor has bypass, so hopefully most everything was collected in the filter. Thanks for the feedback!
 

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First oil change and some valve adjustments. Took a video to see what you all thought. See link below.

https://vimeo.com/179572629
 

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Hey Chad,

Engine sounds great!

I have the same engine test stand (Larin METS-1 Mobile Engine Testing Station). I noticed you have different gauges on yours than the ones that came with mine. Did you by chance have problems getting the original gauges to work properly?

I did on mine and after doing some testing found the manufacturer of the gauges mis-labeled the 12 volt connections (they are backwards, positive should be negative and vise-versa). Reversing them allows the gauges to function properly (in case you still have the original gauges and want to use them, the gauges are very accurate when wired correctly).

Also, after having my current SBC 283 project on the stand for over a month, the rubber tire on one of the wheels failed (big chunk came out of it) so a trip to my local Home Depot and the purchase of some casters with cast iron wheels did the trick to upgrade the stand a bit. I left the original casters on the stand and just replaced the wheels.

Best wishes with the rest of your project. :thumbsup:
 

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Hey Scott,

Thanks for the feedback! Regarding the gauges, the tach came broken in the box, but I had a spare one so used that.

I bought some Summit gauges for $30 to take place of the other two, so didn't even hook them up.

Thanks for the tip on the wheels, I'll keep an eye out. The only real difficulty I had with the stand is that the legs on my engine hoist were too large to fit underneath, so had to put the engine stand up on jack stands, load the engine, and then used my floor jack to pull the jack stands out. Not a big deal. The gas tank itself was also nasty and had to be cleaned before use. It's uncoated steel inside so flash rusting almost starts immediately in the absence of fuel. Other than those two minor things, the stand has been great so far!
 
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