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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1969 Camaro, 350, 4 speed. I have a brandnew battery, voltage regulator,and a rebuilt alternator. I can drive the car then turn it off and the battey will not turn the car over, and there you sit. This also did it with another battery and Optima also, so it is not a battery issue. The alternator was rebuilt and is fine as is th new voltage regulator.I am driving the car to the shop who did he alternator, as he thinks that the voltage regulator does not have any power going to it. Anyone have input on this before I go to the shop. Thanks, Jerod
 

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If your 69 charging system is a still factory set up alternator, Voltage Regulator, and Horn Relay bus.

Here is the wiring diagram for reference.
http://www.camaros.net/techref/electrical/69er_wiring/charging.pdf

The Voltage Regulator should have four wires in the connector.
Three wires from the Alternator:
Terminal F or #1 on the Regulator is Blue wire from the Alternator F port terminal. (Tells the Alternator field to generate power to the battery)

Terminal 2 on the regulator is the white wire from the R terminal of the Alternator.

Terminal 3 on the regulator is the orange fusible link spliced into the red wire that comes from Alternator and connects to the Horn relay which is mounted below the voltage regulator.

Terminal 4 is the brown wire that heads into firewall to the GEN light.

I would start here to make sure the alternator is routing power correctly and more important is being told to charge the battery.
 

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Is your rebuilt alternator still stock amperage (60A)?
If higher amps, the VR needs to suit. 100A current will fry a stock/similar VR.
I ran into this exact problem last week.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The shop gave me the new voltage regulator to go with the new rebuilt alternator. I also have the horn relay next to the voltage regulator and it looks to be orginal. Do not know if this could cause a problem also. As far as wiring goes I cannot get it. The shop owner who is also the one who also works on the stuff said to bring the car down and he can figure it out. Cannot really go anywhere with the battery not holding a charge. Thanks, Jerod
 

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Is there a electrical device staying on when car is off?
Was a charging voltage measurement made across the battery posts after all new parts installed? Should look for min 13.5 volts to 14.5 volts.

Let us know what the Man finds wrong.
 

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It is not unheard of to get a bad new part. I boight a new voltage regulator that was bad about a year ago. I agree with everett, have you checked to make sure there is not a draw on the battery?
 

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Ckeck your grounds,especially the main battery ground both at the battery terminal and at the block.Make sure the wire is not cracked or broken.Physically wiggle the battery terminal to see if it is loose.I had a no start problem a while back.The car would run and charge fine while running,had 13 volts at the battery when the car was off,but would randomly not start,not even a click from the starter.Turned out that the negative battery terminal was loose.By looking at it,it appeared to be tight.I had some one wiggle it while I cranked and the car fired right up.Anything is possible with these cars.Good luck.
 

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As far as wiring goes I cannot get it.
While some wiring can be confusing, Alternator, Voltage Regulator hook up is real easy as there are only three wires to trace. And the wiring diagram posted here shows the colors so its easy as one two three.

If the blue wire on the Voltage Regulator is connected to the F- Field post of the alternator and the connection is good and if the voltage regulator is not damaged and correct amp rating for the alternator then it should trigger a charging state when needed.

I agree with Matt on a double check of the battery connections, as the charging system may be working just fine, but a battery drain or dodgy cable or master connection could be preventing correct grounds and therefore poor or nonexistent charging.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The shop said that one of the wires that connects to the voltage regulator would not stay on, so he soldered a new connector onto the wire. He added a ground wire from the voltage regulator, and cleaned up the junction block as it was corrorded. I have the negative battery cable running to the long alternator bolt to the block. He told me to move it to one of the empty holes down by the fuel pump, and to clean the paint beore I mount it. Hope fully this will fix it. As now it turns over then stops then cranks again after a second or two. So it sounds like a ground. Thanks, Jerod
 

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Not the best place for a ground cable hook-up, it misaligns the belt by throwing off the alt, but still, a good ground.
However, the places he suggested are good.

As now it turns over then stops then cranks again after a second or two. So it sounds like a ground. Thanks, Jerod
A couple reasons could be a partial discharged battery. Yes, it is a new one, but it may not have ever gotten fully charged due to other influences. The other reason could be too much initial ignition advance, but I don't think so. The symptom you gave is the starter stops, then turns - again, battery generating current demand slowly because of its state of charge.
 
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