[zlek131]

Converting from manual 4 drum to manual 4 disc on my 68 coupe. I want to replace my brake lines while I am doing this and I want to order a kit from Right Stuff. What if any are the brake line differences between manual 4-drum/4-disc setups? I think I simply need to order new lines for 4 drums instead of 4 discs as the lines I currently have appear to fit just fine (at least in the front as I haven't dug up the rear yet). The only two questionable plumbing areas are: New Wilwood master cylinder to original distribution block and the other is the distribution valve for the rear. First the Wilwod M/C question that I believe has already been resolved. I got the new M/C bolted on and it looks like there should be no issues at all running the original lines from the new MC to the distribution block. As long as the new 4 drum brake line kit includes these lines (and it should) I am good to go. Next is the proportioning valve for the rear. Assuming I will need one as I don’t think I will end up with a perfectly balanced brake system (I purchased a Wilwood adjustable one), where do I put it? Does the 4 disc line kit perhaps already account for this (maybe this is the difference) hence, the main line going to the rear brakes will be ready for an in-line prop valve insertion? Another way of saying the main rear line is actually composed of two lines that will eventually be joined together via the prop valve? Maybe I got it all wrong…??? Thanks in advance for any advice on this.

 

[john68]

You are building something that never was, you or your tech will have to do some
custom fitting. There will be some modifications.

 

[Pro-Street69Camaro468]

I made a bracket that bolts to the studs on the drivers side master cylinder.I made my own brake lines and the back part of the resivoir goe's into the proportioning valve and one line goe's all the way back to the rear and then splits.you can buy a proportioning valve that is non adjustable that may bolt right up to the kit.Here is a pic of what my master and proportioning look like.

 

[Pro-Street69Camaro468]

I meant to ask I have a thread started and I have after market rotors and calipors what did you get and how much.I was thinking wilwood but not sure...

 

[zlek131]

I went with Wilwood Dynalite Big Brake kit that includes 12.19 inch SRP rotors (drilled/slotted), 4 piston calipers (red). $932 for front and $844 for rears. I was thinking about their 13 inch, 6 caliper combo but the cost goes through the roof on that one and I don’t think it’s worth it. I have a question for you as well since you have a Wilwood M/C. Is the front of the MC somewhat less polished then the rest? Back is the same way but you can't see it when mounted. See the pics below that show this little annoying feature on mine. It's almost like the guy took a cigarette brake while he was polishing and then forgot to finish. Maybe it’s supposed to be this way and I am just a picky individual but something tells me I could have done a better job polishing it.

 

[Pro-Street69Camaro468]

Matt,post pics in vertical and not side by side it makes you have to scroll to read.I don't think mine was that way it seemed like it was polished nice.Have you installed the MC yet if not check the rod length it was to tight on my car I took the U bracket of and welded the hole and redrilled it to make it work.Thanks for the info on the brakes I don't know if I can cut that my wife would shoot me.If they have a liite cheaper set that are for 15" rims may be.

 

[zlek131]

Yes, I installed it but took it off as I noticed the polishing issue. Install was no problem on my 68. After removing the original MC, I simply unscrewed the original pushrod out from the U bracket. II had to loosen the locking nut on the rod first. The new rod seems like a perfect fit. BTW, my 7/8 bore MC came with the rod attached to it. I did see other Wilwood MC (1 inch plus bore) that did not came with the rod and you had to purchase it separately. Was yours like that? No more than 5 min install. I will post again under a different subject to see if others had this polishing issue. If I am the only one then the MC is going back to Summit. Sorry about the side by side pic...

 

[Pro-Street69Camaro468]

I think all 7/8 bores have the rod attached for manual brakes so it wont come out of the fire wall.I would call wilwood direct you may want to just pollish it your self it may be easier.Its not me about the pics some others will have more to say than me....

 

[zlek131]

Yah, I was chatting with others and they suggested I polish it myself. It just ticks me off that I paid for a polished one and got one that's 80% polished. Regarding the side by side pics...It's actually just one pic that I made myself by cut/pasting four pics together. I forgot to crop a bunch of extra white space to the right before I posted it and that's why it stretched everything to the right. However, my browser (IE) wraps the text automatically so I never have to scroll to the right. If I play with the window size, the text will automatically get wrapped to the window size. What browser are you running? I cropped the pic since than and it’s not much wider than the pic you posted but the text is still far right as I think it’s set to the original post with the wider pic.

 

[Pro-Street69Camaro468]

I was just dropping a hint that its not cool to post pics that are to large I have been repromanded for it before.You are talking to a computer illiterate Plumber that is on his sons lap top when I can steal it out of his room.I use the photobucket and size my piccs 660x440 and thats the size that I was told to use on here.

Back to brakes who did you get yours from I think I'm going to see what Frank has at Prodegy did you shop the price 2k is a little out of my range.I have four wheel disc I was thinking of getting a kit for up front and out back doing a factory replacment.Matt thanks for the chat...I made a rhime....My wife says I'm a geek but I don't think so especialy if I don't know what browser I'm on, but I probably still am.

 

[zlek131]

Yes, I shopped around for a while. There are some kits out there for less but you get less. Smaller rotors, less than 4 piston calipers, etc. Looks and quality were important to me and this is why I ended up with Wilwood. A lot of good threads here about Wilwood, including from Frank/Prodigy. I get just about all of my stuff through Summit Racing for two reasons. One, they will match anyone's price on the same product even though their prices tend to be the lowest most of the time and two, they offer same as cash financing for 12 months via their Summit credit card. I dug around all over the web for the Wilwood setup but I was not able to beat Summit prices. A lot of other places false advertise the "same" kit but then you find out that it's extra for the drilled/slotted rotors and for red calipers. $100 extra for this and a $100 extra for that and then you are above the Summit's price. As long as you make sure you pay the balance off in 12 months, you can’t beat the “free money” and it’s much less hit on the wallet as you’re paying it off in smaller chunks at time.

Plumber – that explains why you made your own brake lines. A task that you could probably do in your sleep.

 

[BPOS]

Make your own brake lines - it's simple and fun!! yipee!! If even sort of a do-it-yourselfer, you can do this. It takes a good quality flaring tool and a not terribly fancy tubing bender. With the 1/4" tubing, you don't even need the bender - you can do it by hand. Don't try any of this with stainless unleess you have experience - it's much harder to work with. With very little practice, you can make your own lines for VERY little money - sticks of brake line tubing are dirt cheap

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=145621&highlight=double+flare

 

[zlek131]

Sounds like I may have to pick us this new trade and make the lines myself.