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Discussion Starter #1
Hello there!
So I just bought a 1968 Camaro and I'm looking for some input on pro touring set ups. I've got a few components in the front already, but I'm not sure what to do with the rear. I've been considering putting in a 4 link as apposed to leafs but I don't know the disadvantages compared to advantages. Anyone have any suggestions??
 

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Hello Josh. When you say pro-touring, what are you looking to do with the car. Whats been done in the front and what's you budget. These are things we will need to know before we can give you a good answer to your question. Also you may want to try your luck at the pro-touring.com site also. There are a lot of builds going and some good reading material as well. I personally like both worlds, meaning originality as well as pro-touring features. My care while maintain mostly a stock look other than wheels, I wanted that somewhat old look and its not a track car made it a lot easier to choose parts.

Sedric
 

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If I was planning a major upgrade to the rear end I think the best thing to do is contact Detroit Speed INC. 185 McKenzie Rd. Mooresville, NC. 28115 Phone: (704)662-3272 EMAIL: [email protected] QUADRALink™ Rear Suspension:
https://www.detroitspeed.com/1967-1969-F-Body-products/041703-QUADRALink.html
Rear Mini-Tub Kits: https://www.detroitspeed.com/1967-1969-F-Body-products/041203-mini-tub-kits.html They also have a complete fabrication facility so if you want them to install everything call and get an estimate.
 

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Having DSE or any other shop install a quadralink and minis is very expensive.

Last quote I saw was 4-5000 labor only.

As stated above. #1 quantify how you intend to use the car and determine your budget.

Keep in mind if you tub it you will be most likely buying new wheels and tires. Most also upgrade to bigger brakes.

More budget friendly is Ridetech's new street grip system

http://www.ridetech.com/store/streetgripI
 

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I just ordered DSE mini tubs and a RideTech 4 link suspension from Matt's Classic Bowties. The Ridetech option is a heckuva lot cheaper than the DSE Quadralink (I'm not going to be racing). I plan on doing the install myself and the RideTech kit is mostly bolt-on except for having to weld a couple of tabs on the rear end. The mini tub kit should be challenging for a true noob such as myself.
Lots of info here, on Pro-touring.com and on lateral-g.net .
 

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RideTech prices are going up on March 1st. Keep in mind that if you mini-tub with leaf springs you'll likely have to buy a new gas tank. You can use a stock width tank on most of the 4 link kits with a mini-tub (moving the leaf springs inboard narrows the area for the gas tank). I looked into the pros and cons and decided it was going to be about a wash to do a minitub with the DSE leaf spring kit and narrowed tank vs the Ridetech and regular tank, so I went with the 4 link.
 

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Also with mini tub you're gonna wanna narrow the rear end
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So to answer some of the questions, I have tubular control arms and springs in the front with Willwood disk brakes. Not sure what brand the control arms or springs are, that's what they came with. What I'm thinking of doing right now is putting the ridetech bolt on 4-link and disk brakes in the rear. And the wheels I'm looking at would be 18x10 fronts and 18x12 rears. There is a hell of a flare job done to the fenders. I don't want to mini tub so I'm trying to avoid that. Basically I want it to be a well handling car I can take on some road courses. I live relatively close to mid-Ohio. I don't really have a budget and I also have a fully functional shop at my disposal. So labor isn't an issue either.
 

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18x10 are going to cause serious rubbing and severely limited turning radius.
18x12 will require either an mini tub or flares. Also if you have the talent to flare you have the talent to mini tub. They cost about $300.

A buddy of mine just installed some on his 69 and by following the instructions they came out nice. He probably put 30-40 hours in the complete job. He also did the Ridetech 4 Link.

Another option is to run 18x8 on the front and 18x9 on the rear. You can run probably a 295 tire.
 

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If you have all these tools at your disposal and a place to work on your car, why not mini tub? If you can weld and take your time to layout your cut lines - you'll be fine. Having never done it myself, I jumped in with both feet and I was surprised how easy it was. Hardest part was cutting though the triple layer steel near the shock tower. Had mine done in a weekend!
 

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The car is already flared. And it's a very nice job. I've checked to see if the fitting was there before I decided on whether or not to tub. The 18x10's and 18x12's are going to be ok. The only thing I need to make sure of is that I have enough room in the rears while I run on the springs. I probably won't switch to the 4-link until winter and I put the car up. For now I'm gonna drive it as is and just put some new wheels and tires in. The stuff I have now moves around to much at higher speeds. Just taking it to around 80-85 has it dancing around and hard to control. I also need to look into a steering gear box or possibly another steering linkage option. Possibly a rack and pinion.
 

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I am working on my 67 and with the Heidts ProG in front and their 4 link in back. So while we are talking about the back ends & tire fit, I mini-tubbed the rear and have a 58" Ford 9". I was planning on squeezin in 18x12s with 335s on the rear but found the way the 4-link hooks up to the old rear spring bracket, I loose some of that added mini-tub space. As far as your car 68 being flared, there is no impact with the Heidts 4-link. Its back to mocking up for me!
 

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If you are wanting to run 18x10's up front you might take a look at our Ridetech TruTurn package for the first gen's. With the right wheel offset you can fit up to a 10" wide wheel and a 275 tire.
 

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I will be moving my spring perches inboard to allow for the 335's.
 

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(I'm using a RideTech 4 link).
 
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