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Discussion Starter #1
I replaced my underdash harness for one with console gauge connectors. I also replaced the engine harness for a gauge harness. I tried to start the car, and I can hear the solenoid click, but it doesn't start after that, not even a turn over. The yellow and white wires coming off of the coil also are heating up when I turn the ignition to on, then cool off when it is turned to off.

Also, my old harness had a dark green wire coming off of the ground terminal of the ignition switch, and my new harness does not have that wire. Anyone know what the green wire is for, and why i'm getting hot wires and no starting?
 

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On the no starting, and hot yellow wire, It's possible the wires are reversed on the starter, although this shouldn't be possible with a new oem style harness, the holes in the terminals are different sizes.

The purple wire should be on the stud closest to the engine block.

No joy on the green wire from the ignition switch
 

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Discussion Starter #3
the wires on the starter seem to be correct, with the purple wire on the stud closest to the engine, and the yellow wire on the opposite stud.

The green wire may not be necessary in a car with gauges. It goes from the ignition ground to the plug on the back of the instrument panel, and then to the ignition fuse on the block. Maybe it is only necessary if you don't have gauges.

The yellow wire and the white resistance wire both seem to feel hot, and I can feel heat along the harness. Both are on the positive side of the coil. Anyone with any ideas?
 

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Is the Distributor grounded to the negative side of the coil? Check and see how many volts are going to the positive side of the coil. It sounds like you have a major draw going to the coil.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The distributor is on the negative side. I'm getting 6.30 volts on between the positive and negative side of the coil when I have the key in the on position..
 

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The green wire does go to the instrument cluster. It is for the Temp light on the dash. If you trace the wire, it goes to the temp sending unit on the intake manifold. Since you have the new harness with gauges, it is a different set up and the green wire is no longer needed.

As far as the yellow and white wires to the coil heating up, something might be reversed causing the current to flow in reverse? or a major short not blowing a fuse? Are the fuses the correct rated amps? There is obviously too much current flowing through the yellow and white wires. Why the fuse doesn't blow is surprising.

Another thing might be a bad solenoid on the starter or the ignition switch shorting out between two terminals on the switch. Double check the connector to the ignition switch and see if any wires are touching or look burned.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Is there any problem with switching the yellow and purple wires on the starter to see if it will work? That's the only thing I can think of that would be causing an incorrect power flow. Everything else seems fine, the ignition switch plug looks good and it doesn't seem to heat up. I think the tach wire and the temp sender wire are pretty much the only changes between the gauges engine harness and the non-gauge harness, right?

The firewall plug was bypassed with another ignition wire before, because the old engine harness plug often caused the car to die on the road when it would wiggle around. I removed that wiring when I got the new harnesses. This is the first time it's been hooked up the way it's supposed to, that's why I never had an ignition problem before.
 

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Don't switch the starter solenoid wire if they are correct.....yellow towards the exhaust and purple towards the engine side. I guess the best thing to do now is get a wiring diagram and trace each wire at the ignition circuit and see if everything is hooked up correctly. Get an Assembly manual if you don't have one. It will help alot. It has the wiring diagrams in the manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I just found out the clicking I heard is coming from one of the 3 relays for the rallysport headlights, not the solenoid for the starter. That means the starter is not making any noise when I turn the key.

I put a tester on the starter and I am getting 12 volts between the battery terminal and the other terminals when the key is off, and I am getting 6 volts between the 2 other terminals when I try to start it. Is that correct? How exactly can I test the starter to see if it is working?
 

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ok, progress.

Always test voltage from what you're testing to ground, anything else will give false readings.

I'm thinking at this point that you have no "start" signal to the starter. Neuutral safety switch. Check it.

EVERYTHING else you described is normal, except possibly for the headlight relay clicking, but I wouldn't worry about that yet. Concentrate on getting 12 volts (to ground) on the purple wiure at the stsarter, check your neutral safety switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
We have had a breakthrough!

first, the bad news. The yellow and resistance wires still feel hot to me.

Now the good news. I checked my neutral safety switch. The car has the original switch and I just replaced the console harness with a new one.

Well.

The 4 wires inside the plug on the new harness weren't in the right places! The plug was turned 180 degrees from the way it should be. I don't mean it was plugged in wrong, I mean the factory put the wires in the plug housing in the wrong orientation. No wonder it wouldn't start. I switched the wires around the way they should be, and cranked the key real quick, and it turned over. Woohoo!

Now I just gotta figure out why I have the warm wires. I've never left the key turned long enough to see if it actually would start to burn up, but it does seem to be hotter than it should be.
 

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Depending on the coil resistance, the ignition wires can build substantial heat if the points happen to be closed (which they are 2/3 of the time, depending on where the motor stops) I melted a mopar style ballast once, accidendatly left the key on with the motro not running.

As I said before, don't worry about that wire getting hot. Just git er fired up.
 
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