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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I just installed new monoleaf springs (Ridetech composite with Delrin bushings)--1967. Before dropping the car back on the ground:
1. The front spring bolt was torqued to 70 ft lbs (cant leave it loose because it gets tucked up into perch). 2. Rear shackle bolts were left loose 3. The lower spring/shock mounting plate was snugged to keep locator pins in position.

After the car was on the ground: 1.Tightened the spring/shock plate to 55 ft lbs incrementally while alternating the pattern. 3. Rear shackles bolts were torqued to 55 ft lbs.

In the pictures, the outer holes of the lower mounting plates, there is a U bolt on the outside and individual bolts on the inside.

Does the angle look right? Notice the thread length in front bolts is longer than rear bolts.
 

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Longer existing thread length may be due to spring perch giving way/being pulled by the bolt head, since the shock plate does not meet perch as OE design - OE spring with pads.
You might check shaft angle at both ends as shim might need installing with thicker end towards the front of car.
 

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It looks good. The U bolts are likely a bit longer than the bolts are. The front eye bolts should be able to be reached with open end wrenches. I was able to do it on my 67.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Longer existing thread length may be due to spring perch giving way/being pulled by the bolt head, since the shock plate does not meet perch as OE design - OE spring with pads.
You might check shaft angle at both ends as shim might need installing with thicker end towards the front of car.
Thanks for the reply. I checked the top spring perch and there is no obvious compression/pull on the metal. On the outer holes there is no bolt head because of the u bolt and that front u bolt has 1/4 inch more thread compared to back u bolt thread. I also re-checked the top mounting plate above the leaf spring and they are both centered.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It looks good. The U bolts are likely a bit longer than the bolts are. The front eye bolts should be able to be reached with open end wrenches. I was able to do it on my 67.
Thanks David...While the u bolts (outer) are longer than the individual bolts (inner), both front bolts have about 1/4 inch more thread exposed. When I put the u bolts on the housing, the rear was slightly angled down. I wasn't really concerned about ensuring the u bolt was at a 90 degree angle (i.e., centered) to the pinion line. Should I have?

I was thinking the rear housing and/or angles would "settle in" back to stock once the weight of the car was on the suspension before I tightened everything up.
 

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You want about three degrees on the shaft angle to pinion. Usually point the nose of the rear down 3-7* for leaf spring cars, all depends on the rest of the car though. Tremec makes a mobile app you can check all your angles. I'm not seeing anything wrong from your pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You want about three degrees on the shaft angle to pinion. Usually point the nose of the rear down 3-7* for leaf spring cars, all depends on the rest of the car though. Tremec makes a mobile app you can check all your angles. I'm not seeing anything wrong from your pictures.
That's what I was thinking...as long as my angles are good, I should be ok. Thanks for the tip on the app, I just downloaded it. i am going to tighten everything back up, put it back on the ground and measure the angles. My visual observation is that the rear is slightly pointing down as it sits.
 
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