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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,
First let me say great site, great people(haven't seen any bashers like you find on most sites) and lots of info.Lots of info, thats my problem. I have a 67 that I am just starting to build, subframe & control arms are at the sandblaster now. I need help with building the suspension. I have read several posts regarding this and I feel like I now have too much info. I have a budget of about $2500 for this. My first plan was to just put on the Hotchkis TVS kit & shocks and the PST front end rebuild kit, but there are alot of options I did not consider. Anybody have pics of the stance the TVS kit gives? So what would you guys do with $2500 as a budget?

Thanks in advance,

Brandt
 

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first off consider if you want to go rack and pinion or a good steering box, if you go the rack route that would kill alomost half your budget i was in this same boat and i am considering the dse 600 box the afx 670 box or the agr box, all three i have heard everyone loves them, i have the hotchkis tvs and love it, as for control arms, if you want tubular use global west, dse, or speed tech, or if you want stock do the guldstrand mod for a better handling feel, well lets see a good box good coils, and shocks a bigger sway bar, new front end parts and either tubular arms or g-mod check or re do your brakes and you will be set...what are you doing for the rear, may want a subframe connector..id deffiately go the hotchkis tvs route, you love the handling and the stance
 

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#1 Guldstrand mod (this one's free!)
#2 del-a-lum bushings
#3 thirdgen steering box
#4 all new wear parts
#5 Springs of your choice (just TOO many!)
#6 1 1/8" addco swaybar, or 1" tubular swaw bar (hotchkiss i think?)
#7 blow some leftover money on good shocks, konis or bilsteins

The good news: it'll handle like it's on rails.
The better news: you'll get a grand change from your #2500!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I will probably replace the box down the road. I will get subframe connectors but I hate that I probably will not be able to turn the exhaust out the side(same as with my nova) due to ground clearance.
Will the tubular arms make that big of a difference in cornering? I have reservations about the Guldstrand mod at this point based on my fabricating abilities. I am not going to be racing but would still like to get into a corner pretty hard. Would the Hothckis springs work with a decent set of tubulars?
 

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yeah my car is a daily driver and i love the hotchkis stuff they will work with the tubular arms but if you arent racing or really conering hard then just do the g-mod..u can do it i was scared at first since i am only 19 but after talking with harley and david pozzi i am ready to do it whrn i go home to my car i heard it is killer....and really easy
 

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I would do the box now, it is in your budget, and it really really adds to the "feel" of the car. search "thirdgen steering box" and "Brian Lewis"

I did the g/s mod squatting in the fenderwells, with the spindle and lower control arm between my legs, headers on engine in. Only took off the upper arm. It took 3 hours total, from on the wheels to on the wheels.

The only tricky part is printing the template to the right size. The x's for the original bolt holes hafa line up with the original bolts. Use pozzi's template, not guldstrand's. People have had trouble with guldstrands even tho they are supposed to be the same. Best way on the template is to measure the distance between the bolts, then take it to your office copier, and play with the zoom till you get the right distance.

Before you drill the second hole, measure CAREFULLY, or even put the crossbar in place to ensure the 2 new bolts will actually go thru both holes.

Then cut the ears off with a sawzall, again, you can do this from under the wheelwell. Might want to take the plug wires out of the way.

This simple lil thing makes a HUGE difference in how the car handles.

Tubular a-arms are bling. They really don't do anything but look good. They add a lil camber, but you don't need more than 4 degrees and you can get that with shims. Tubular arms DO NOT change the basic geometry of the suspension.

Study on the springs, both the rate and the ride ht. there's simply too many choices. The racers like stiff springs, I get along real well with near stock spring rates and a big swaybar. My front fender lip is 23.5" off the ground, and my hooker comp headers rarely strike pavement.
 
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