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Discussion Starter #1
I thought it would be fun to build a new engine for my project car .i never built one from the ground up but i give it a whirl and now it's giving me, a headache. Here's what I got.

i put an eagle 383 stroker kit in and used plastigauge to check clearances and tolerances ....checked out fine

just crankshaft in ...it turned easy

when i put the connecting rods and pistons on....kinda had to bow up....but would turn

but now with engine in car and all accessories on ...when i try to turn it over it jus barely turns???? to give you an idea the alternater pulley may make an 1/8 of a turn..(maybe try to post a short vid). i have bumped it enough to make 3 revolutions with the crank but kind of wondering if i need to keep going ..

things i've done to help lower compression/friction ,by the way compression is 10.7:1 ......
removed plugs ..
backed off rocker arms...
put a dab of oil down sparkplug holes

also put a new starter on today...no help
i kicked the tires a couple of times and cussed it ...didn 't help either

i'm lost please help:confused:
no more ideas
 

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Time to tear it back down and see what's going on. A short block should turn with less than 50 ftlbs of torque. You may have a rod in backwards or multiples.....
 

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Bubba,

With the spark plugs out, you should be able to turn the engine over with a long 3/8 drive rachet on the damper bolt. If you cant, you need to take it out and apart and find out why.

The longer you keep messing with it, the more damage you are doing :(
 

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I agree with Bill.

Altho, Ones version of 'hard to turn over' might be "turns to easy' for the next guy.
 

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On reassembly, check the rotation after every part you add.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks for the input guys that's what i was thinking the best bet would be is to just reassemble, i did turn it with a torque wrench with just crank and rods,before i dropped it in , it was about 85 lbs of torque to turn it, i was semi-concerned then but,i had asked a couple of ol dirt trackers i work with about that and the answers were split between 50 lbs and 80 lbs ..oh well better luck next time
 

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oh well better luck next time
"Luck is directly proportional to the effort put in"
Mark Twain

Hey its your 1st build...you are better off having tight and have to strip down, than to fire up and do damage like collaspe a piston

In my books you should be a happy chappy
 

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If it makes a difference, my newly rebuilt motor (never ran, new everything, bottom end, crank turned, bearings...) was very difficult to turn over, especially after setting the valves. Even with the rockers loose, it was still difficult, I'm not saying there isn't a problem, but it's probably nothing to worry about.

After turning it over after 6,000mi by hand, it seemed way easier.

good luck!
 

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Insufficient piston to wall clearance could add a fair amount to the torque required to turn it over,but you would feel that when installing the pistons.My bet is ring end gap,or the oil ring expanders popped out when you were putting the pistons in and now you have a mess in the oil ring groove consisting of an expander rail turned on it's side with the rails wrapped around it.Another thing could be an excessivly rough bore finish.Rods in backwards like another post said is also a possibilty.These are the places I would checkThats a huge amount of torque to turn over a short block as far as I am concerned.
 

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Could there be any problem with the transmission binding or restrictions? Don't know what you have attached in your car. My newly built BBC could not be turned over by a 3/8 racket and starts fine with starter. Did you put a ring in the bores and measure ring end gap @ top and bottom of cylinder
 

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I believe the turning torque should be about 35-40 ft-lbs for the crank, rods, and pistons in the block or about 5 ft-lbs per piston/rod installed. You had double that at 85 ft-lbs. :eek:

BiGBuBBa said:
i did turn it with a torque wrench with just crank and rods,before i dropped it in , it was about 85 lbs of torque to turn it
Take the advice form the guys and pull the engine and find out what the problem with the short block.
 

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If you look at the first post, Bubba put in a 383 stroker crank. The first thing I'd look at is was the block clearanced for the longer throw of the crank or not. I'll bet a cold one he has a rod rubbing the block.
 

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If you look at the first post, Bubba put in a 383 stroker crank. The first thing I'd look at is was the block clearanced for the longer throw of the crank or not. I'll bet a cold one he has a rod rubbing the block.
Good call....or the oil pan. Turn it counter clockwise and see how it turns.
 

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I bet you thats it too. I had to do some significant beating on my oil pan to clearance it. The block has to be slightly clearanced too.

I have a 7 qt pan and still had issues. Check the front 2 cylinders if its hitting it will be on the outer corners. I don't think it would turn over if you were hitting the block and you would have noticed it when the crank was in.

85 ft/lbs is a little high though, what was crank clearance? My friend had his at 18 thousandths, told him it was to tight and he locked it up and trashed the motor on the track. Have you primed this engine with a drill yet??? I know basic stuff but just go over everything in your head.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
i got a automatic 400 turbo on it with driveshaft out and tried it in every gear ..no issue with converter bolt clearance..I had checked the crank clearance it was just over .050..that was the biggest gauge i had , the speed-pro pistons that had come in the kit had really short skirts..no problem there. when it got hard to turn was when i was torqing connecting rods.the torque was 40 lbs. i did it 3 steps ..15..30..40 15 turned fined ...30 probably could of turned it at the crank with 3/8 breaker. but 40 made it hard to turn ..i'm 6"4 300pds and had to "roll up my sleeves" to turn it.. i was really carefull,took my time and the eagle rods are marked really well so i don't think i would of turned one around ...i gotta work this weekend but next weekend i probably pull it out.. i was just baffled at why it will turn out about 85 lbs. of torque with breaker but the starter i have was rated @ 120 lbs of torque or i was told by the guy @ oreilly's wouldn't turn it ..it's not totally locked up as i have made about 3 complete turns on it.i was just thinking of a way to get it to spin hoping it would get a little easier the more it turned
 

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"Luck is directly proportional to the effort put in"
Mark Twain

Hey its your 1st build...you are better off having tight and have to strip down, than to fire up and do damage like collaspe a piston

In my books you should be a happy chappy

So what happens if you put in a ton of effort and get only bad luck..

IE take the time to buy alot of lottery tickets but dont win, or other stuff :D
 

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He's made three turns with it and very hard to turn, no stops. I've experienced in short block form and with heads on, no rockers, no spark plugs, 30-35 ft./lbs to continue turning.

Valve spring pressure has an effect in torque.

I suggest before doing anything, lube the bejesus of the cylinders/squirt oil into the cylinders, and prime the engine, then do another torque test. It should loosen up by half, i.e., 40-45 ft./lbs. with trans in place.

Crankshaft endplay is usually no more than 0.006" and rod clearance no more than 0.014".
Oil clearance for both main & rod is generally 0.002".
Torque convertor bolt head clearance to block is min 1/4 inch as determined by flexplate.
 
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