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Discussion Starter #1
OK my new TT2's the rims are 9.5 with 5.5 back space (i am going downstairs to remeasure) I hade slapper bars on the car now I switch over to shock plates with 2'' lowering blocks and thought every thing was good then I walked in the hause today and looked at the rims and saw the lower part of the shocks and plates sittin on the rim? Wht is this happen I read with 9.5 rims I needed 5.5 rims.





HELP BEFORE I JUMP OFF A BRIDGE
 

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I ran into the sme problem trying to use 2" block. I had to use 1" block and it still looks good. I am going to order DSE 2" drop springs. I use the same rims and size tires as you. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news>
 

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First I think the block is too big and it looks to me like you have the wrong shocks for the multi-leaf shock plate. My shocks have a stud that is built into and through the bottom eye that is flush with the eye on the wheel side, nothing protudes out towards the wheel.
 

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Two choices, I see:
1. Shorten the lowering block by half the thickness
2. Add a spacer between the wheel and axle flange.

I vote for #1.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Rex some times bad news is what i need to hear, it figures since I loved the look of the 2 inch blocks. I was wondering if I could heat and bend up where the shocks mount so they are sticking up
 

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Discussion Starter #6
What worries me is when the spring begin to sag over time even if I have 2 inches the spring plate on the bottom will hit the rim.
 

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No, shock plate and wheel are connected to each other. If spring sags, shock will never hit wheel if you have a shorter block.

Shock plate is bolted to axle, wheel is bolted to it. The distance will never change unless, God forbid, the axle flange breaks.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Then I dont understand why it didnt hit when I put them on it seems that after a few days the spring settled a little is when they started hitting.. Thank all for the help.
 

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The sag, if you are experiencing some is most likely from the rear shackles settling in after installing the blocks. Your springs have a certain arch and if you didn't remove them when you installed the blocks the shackles started out where they were before the blocks. The blocks changed the arch of teh spring. The spring as it tries to find it's natural arch for your load slowly moved the shackle lowering the car some.

Loosen the shackles (both upper and lower) and try a 1 1/2" block. Set the car back on it's wheels and then tighten the shackles.
 

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A '67 car use's a through bolt!

A '68 and '69 use a stud!!

My 17" x 5.25" or so allow my '67 stuff to tuck inside, otherwise you need a 3.75" B/S for a 14" rim!!

Hope this helps??

pdq67
 

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I should have added with those 255's if you run a 1/4" wheel spacer you might not have to to trim the fender lip with the car sitting still or driving in a straight line but corners and driveways at an angle to avoid scraping may cause some tire rub. If you have drums in the back it will be less of a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
:thumbsup: Thanks guys, I am going to cut them on a band saw tomarrow 1 1/2....
 

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Discussion Starter #14
First I think the block is too big and it looks to me like you have the wrong shocks for the multi-leaf shock plate. My shocks have a stud that is built into and through the bottom eye that is flush with the eye on the wheel side, nothing protudes out towards the wheel.
I cut them down 1/2 inch and still have the problem If my shock was mounted without that little spacer I would be cool. Does anyone have some pic's of the proper shock on and off the mount. Thank you
 

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You had to gain something removing a half inch... The spacer is required but not the nut and bolt head.

Here's a multi-leaf Koni...
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thank you.... I think I will need to go with 1 inch blocks because even with that correct setup I can tell they will still hit.... Thank you for the Pics that helps me a lot
 
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