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Unfortunately due to UPS I only got my front wheels and all 4 tires, but that didn't stop me from getting the fronts mounted and bolted up.



Who needs rear wheels:





Tires are:
235/45ZR17 Sumitomo HTR Z II
255/45ZR18 Sumitomo HTR Z II

I installed Hotchkis 2" lowering springs a few months back and didn't worry about it when the front of the car stayed the same height because I just assumed the originals were completely worn out.

It's looking really really high in the front now though. I'm guessing/hoping that they may not be sitting in the pocket properly and it's raising it up some.

If I put the front of it in the air and take the shock out, can I rotate the spring in the perch or do I have to separate my balljoints again? I really hope I don't have to do that.
 

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Did you torque all of the control arm bolts with the weight of the car on the ground or did your torque them while the car is in the air?

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I've never touched my control arm bolts.

When I installed the springs they moved well enough to bent the LCA down and shove the spring in there.
 

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If I put the front of it in the air and take the shock out, can I rotate the spring in the perch or do I have to separate my balljoints again? I really hope I don't have to do that.

If you just take the shock out, back the lower ball joint nut off almost all the way and then whack the flat spot on the spindle with a sledge hammer it'll pop apart, maybe enough without separating balljoint from spindle to turn a 2" drop spring. If not and you still wind up having to put a jack under it and drop the LCA down a little it still won't be bad. Antisieze on the ball joint shafts is a blessing for that. The indexing hole you line the end of the spring up with is in frame pocket up top.

Even so you still may want to loosen the LCA bolts and then let it set down before you tighten them back up. The bushings may have a "memory" spot in them where the arm can't swing past with the bolts tight.
 

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If you just take the shock out, back the lower ball joint nut off almost all the way and then whack the flat spot on the spindle with a sledge hammer it'll pop apart, maybe enough without separating balljoint from spindle to turn a 2" drop spring. If not and you still wind up having to put a jack under it and drop the LCA down a little it still won't be bad. Antisieze on the ball joint shafts is a blessing for that. The indexing hole you line the end of the spring up with is in frame pocket up top.

Even so you still may want to loosen the LCA bolts and then let it set down before you tighten them back up. The bushings may have a "memory" spot in them where the arm can't swing past with the bolts tight.
Yeah I was hoping to not have to do that. When I replaced the springs the first time getting the ball joints to pop was a giant pain in the *** that too me a few days to accomplish. They literally wouldn't budge. I ended up replacing the covers on them after mangling them good. While I liberally used anti seize on the threads while reassembling, I imagine with so much less pressure than the factory springs they're going to be a chore to get undone again.
 

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You'd be surprised how easy they may come out since you had them apart once if you hit the spindle in just the right spot, no need for a pickle fork. I've gotten an upper on my 2002 with 60k on it to come out before with a whack in the right spot with just the weight of the spindle on it, no strut.
 

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After getting it onto the ground and giving it a few bounces up and down since it was hanging off the suspension it's actually not as bad as I originally thought. It's definitely still a bit high for my liking, but not like I thought it was.

I measured about 15 3/4 from the center of my wheel to the bottom of the wheel well trim.
 

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Floor to top of wheel well trim is about 27 3/4
 

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Those look almost identical to my AR's:



Ironically enough I got the rears first and the fronts about a week later. I feel your pain...

...but the wait was so, so worth it!



See? Much better!

I went 225's in the front and still rub on hard bumps. Not saying you'll do the same but it might happen. I really think it's the same wheel with different branding by the looks of it. The only difference I see is my lips have steps in them whereas yours are smooth. I'm considering rolling the front fenders to solve the problem. They only need about 1/8" to 1/4" at the most to clear just inside the lip. It's rare that I have problems but that sound!

Mine were AR-105 Torque Thrust M's. 17x7 front with a 4.02" BS and 17x8 rears with 4.57" BS. No rubbing on the back at all. Lots of rubber back there. Drives great!

You're going to love that first ride. I used to get a lot of complements before I put on those rims. Now I can't stop at a light without someone giving me a thumbs up or wanting to talk.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Those look almost identical to my AR's:



Ironically enough I got the rears first and the fronts about a week later. I feel your pain...

...but the wait was so, so worth it!



See? Much better!

I went 225's in the front and still rub on hard bumps. Not saying you'll do the same but it might happen. I really think it's the same wheel with different branding by the looks of it. The only difference I see is my lips have steps in them whereas yours are smooth. I'm considering rolling the front fenders to solve the problem. They only need about 1/8" to 1/4" at the most to clear just inside the lip. It's rare that I have problems but that sound!

Mine were AR-105 Torque Thrust M's. 17x7 front with a 4.02" BS and 17x8 rears with 4.57" BS. No rubbing on the back at all. Lots of rubber back there. Drives great!

You're going to love that first ride. I used to get a lot of complements before I put on those rims. Now I can't stop at a light without someone giving me a thumbs up or wanting to talk.
Out for delivery so hopefully they come early enough I can drop them off to get mounted.

As for rubbing, I've got .25" more backspacing so they shouldnt have any issues I hope.

They're definitely similar. In addition to the difference in the barrel mine also have hidden valve stems. I'm just hoping they dont leak because they look like a real pain to fill.
 

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Out for delivery so hopefully they come early enough I can drop them off to get mounted.

As for rubbing, I've got .25" more backspacing so they shouldnt have any issues I hope.

They're definitely similar. In addition to the difference in the barrel mine also have hidden valve stems. I'm just hoping they dont leak because they look like a real pain to fill.
Nice on all counts!

...and just in time for the holiday weekend! Enjoy! :beers:

BTW: Love the invisible rim shot.
 

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UPS just came and I promptly dropped them off to be mounted. I need to leave here at 4 so I hope theyre done soon.
 

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Any rubbing?
 

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not at all. Not even close. We'll see how it goes when I get the ride height sitting where I want it.

Thinking of getting these springs de-arched if I can find someone to do it, or otherwise finding a new set of leaf springs. Also going to start out with some tubular LCA's and see what that does for the front height. If it doesn't get it down enough I guess I'll pull out my cutting wheel and take a 1/2 coil out of the front.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Took this at a cruise I was at Saturday morning. New favorite picture of my car.

 

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Floor to top of wheel well trim is about 27 3/4
Jason - Those number look really high. I have Hotchkis 2" front and 3" rear lowering springs. My front measurements are 25-7/8" floor to wheel well and 13-7/8" center of wheel to highest point on wheel well. My front wheels and tires are just a bit taller than yours but only 1/4"R. When I compare to stock ride height I'm actually about 1.5" lowered. That would put you about 1/2" higher than stock.

That's a great picture at the car show.

Murph

 

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Discussion Starter #20
I've got new DSE LCA's on the way so we'll see what they do.

Still debating 1.5 or 3" lowering rear springs.
 
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