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Discussion Starter #1
I'm 95% completed with a frame off restoration on a 69. I now have all my electrical components working except the brake lights. Some notes:

1) Again, everything else is working. Headlights, tail lights, turn signals, etc

2) I removed the connector from the switch at the pedal and the orange wire is hot

3) The switch itself tested good

4) I ran a jumber between the two terminals in the connector (that connects to the switch) and still no brake lights

5) Since the tail-lights work I obviously have good ground to the bulbs

6) The yellow wire to the driver's side bulb and the green wire to the passenger side are both dead no matter the testing tried up to this point

What should I test or do next? Is there an inline fuse or somthing at the fuse panel I can check?

Thanks in advance!
 

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Turn signal switch.
It is possible for the turn signals to work, but not the brake lights. Try another turn signal switch. You don't have to fully install it. Just plug it in.

PS Not sure WTH Nauman is talking about.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Turn signal switch.
It is possible for the turn signals to work, but not the brake lights. Try another turn signal switch. You don't have to fully install it. Just plug it in.
Bilo,..turn signal switch? In the steering column (I suppose)? Enlighten me. Do I pull the steering wheel? What am I looking for? What am I replacing. Thanks for your help!
 

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Emergency flashers use the same circuitry.
No flashers, bad turn signal switch.
You can jumper the jumper the brake switch and wiggle the t/signal handle to see if lights come on. The heavy handle does wear out the bushing in the switch and causes the contacts to open up.
 

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I know you probably checked but Stop & Hazard have their own fuse. Tail lights will still work. Might be worth a check.

Nevermind, I see the orange wire on brake sw was hot.
 

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Bilo,..turn signal switch? In the steering column (I suppose)? Enlighten me. Do I pull the steering wheel? What am I looking for? What am I replacing. Thanks for your help!
The brake lights go thru the T/S sw so when you step on the brakes and are turning the one side flashes and the other is Brake light. I would get another T/S sw and just plug it in under dash before I took the sterring column all apart to replace. Just my .02

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Emergency flashers use the same circuitry.
No flashers, bad turn signal switch.
You can jumper the jumper the brake switch and wiggle the t/signal handle to see if lights come on. The heavy handle does wear out the bushing in the switch and causes the contacts to open up.
Emergency flashers work fine. Would that mean the turn signal switch is good?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The brake lights go thru the T/S sw so when you step on the brakes and are turning the one side flashes and the other is Brake light. I would get another T/S sw and just plug it in under dash before I took the sterring column all apart to replace. Just my .02

Jeff
Big Jeff,..see my post above to Everett. Should I still try another turn signal switch?
 

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When the emergency flashers are on and you hit the brake do the lights stop flashing and the brake lights come on?
 

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Big Jeff,..see my post above to Everett. Should I still try another turn signal switch?
If the T/S work on the rear I would purchase and plug in another switch. I've never checked the Hazard operation on a car with a bad T/S switch causing no brake lights. If the T/S and hazards work on the rear then the circuits from the switch and the bulbs are good to the rear.

Have you checked the white wire at the T/S switch for power with the brake light switch jumpered?

If the power is on the white at the T/S sw there's not much else it can be except The T/S Sw.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #12
If the T/S work on the rear I would purchase and plug in another switch. I've never checked the Hazard operation on a car with a bad T/S switch causing no brake lights. If the T/S and hazards work on the rear then the circuits from the switch and the bulbs are good to the rear.

Have you checked the white wire at the T/S switch for power with the brake light switch jumpered?

If the power is on the white at the T/S sw there's not much else it can be except The T/S Sw.

Jeff
Big Jeff,..are you saying I should pull the steering wheel and test continuity through the white wire from the connector (for the brake pedal switch) to the turn signal switch? Or is there an easier way? Thanks again!
 

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That's the part. You can get one @ your local auto parts for about half of what Rick's wants.

You might try putting your test light on the yellow and green wires as they exit the t/s switch just to be sure. There is also a plug connector in the trunk for the rear light harness, but it would be a longshot if only those two were faulty.

Just for the heck of it pull both flashers and see if that has any effect.

Replacing the t/s switch isn't really a very fun job.
 

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I just went through this over the weekend.

1. Disconnect the turn signal switch from the rear harness. This is a flat connector on the steering column.

2. With the ignition OFF place on the rear body harness connector place a jumper between the white and dark green wire. The right brake lights should light up. Placing a jumper between the white and yellow wires operates the left side brake
lights.

If the lights work the problem is in the turn signal switch and wiring harness. If not the problem is in the rear body harness, which doesn't sound likely given the original post.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I just went through this over the weekend.

1. Disconnect the turn signal switch from the rear harness. This is a flat connector on the steering column.

2. With the ignition OFF place on the rear body harness connector place a jumper between the white and dark green wire. The right brake lights should light up. Placing a jumper between the white and yellow wires operates the left side brake
lights.

If the lights work the problem is in the turn signal switch and wiring harness. If not the problem is in the rear body harness, which doesn't sound likely given the original post.
Rocket,..make sure I understand. Near the lower steering column, disconnect the harness to the turn-signal switch. From the white wire in this now disconected connector, run a jumper to the rear of the car (either the connector in the trunk or to the light sockets themselves).

Do I have it right?
 

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Big Jeff,..are you saying I should pull the steering wheel and test continuity through the white wire from the connector (for the brake pedal switch) to the turn signal switch? Or is there an easier way? Thanks again!
you can check continuity at the connector at the base of the column before you take it apart. I don't recomend you go in the steering solumn until you know for sure the T/S switch is bad, It's to much work on a gamble.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Thanks but still a bit confused. Thanks for your patience.

From the connector at the brake pedal switch, the white wire goes to the Turn Signal switch. So I need to test coninuity from the steering column connection (that attaches the pigtail to the turn signal switch) to the bulb sockets.

If I don't get continuity, the T/S switch is bad. Correct?
 

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Correct. Remember, there are a few connectors between the brake switch connector white wire and light socket.
You may want to split it and test the circuit.
 
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