did the easy stuff first....changed out flashers (#552's), changed out bulbs (1157's), checked fuses (by site), checked and cleaned a ground area near RR turn signal, and no luck. Brake switch was replaced not too long ago (cheap looking switch), and all turn signal wiring is fairly new too. Running lts work. I also cleaned the sockets and all prongs. Sockets look old and mis-matched though. The 1157 in the RR had a couple of stripes on the inside of the glass but the filliments were not broken so I interchanged them. The left signal then looked very weak and again the RT didn't work. What's the next logical step? Thanks!
Turn on emergency flashers and use this mode to look for voltage to the light/socket.
If you find voltage from the socket to another ground point on the body, then ground has an open path from the socket body to bezel to body.
Orange wire from fuse panel to bk sw, white wire to turn sig sw, out column connector to body harness, yellow for left side, dark green for pass side brake lights, through bulb(s) to ground.
So you might jiggle t/sig handle to make contact.
put in new RR socket and got the turn signal to work. I did jiggle the wires above the kick panel....the big plug. Took apart plug and sprayed with electrical cleaner. Put plug back together and no rt turn signal. Pulled plug apart and put meter on dark grn lead with rt turn signal on....and no power!....had it working a few minutes ago but now nothing.
If you have the original designed flasher, aka, P/N 512, and unplug the harness or remove the selected bulb, the load has been removed and flasher will not flash, BUT, you should have battery voltage present.
I can imagine the connector contacts may have lost some of their 'tension' to provide a good contact with the mating connector/contact.
Now I'm stumped. I finally got some life out of the Rt turn signal after replacing the socket, only to have it quickly stop working again. I missed out on the joy in seeing the Lakers getting stomped by the Mav's trying to get this car ready for this weeks show. What's the next logical step? BTW, no sign of life out of the brake lights yet!
You should place a weight on the brake pedal to engage the brake lights, and take your meter or test light and start probing for power starting at the socket, the spring loaded contacts, to the splice to the body harness, to the steering column, to the orange wire to fuse panel. You should also check the new socket fingers, the parts holding the socket in place in the bezel, making good contact. Most aftermarket sockets have little 'fingers' vice the wide contact snaps of OE design and aftermarket socket fingers lose their grip. Got to have a good ground to complete the circuit.
Of course, you've checked the fuse and you have power on both sides, you've even removed the fuse and cleaned the fuse socket and fuse.
If you have brake lights and no turn signal, then remove the weight, select rt turn, and unhook the ign primary wire to the dist, and proceed with test light. Turn signal sw changes brake light power to t/sig power, but uses the same wires from column to light socket.
It's fixed:hurray:and it turned out to be a loose turn signal connection under the dash (the big flat plug). Brake lights work perfectly too. Thanks for all the suggestions and a special thanks to Everett for sticking with me throughout this dilemma! It's appreciated:thumbsup:
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