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1968 Camaro 454 LS6, Holley 950, Tremec 5 speed, Currie 9 in
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"When you step on the brake pedal with the key off or on you should get 12 volts at the white wire and at the yellow and green wires going to the tail lights"
So if I get 12 volts on the white lead but nothing on the yellow and green I can assume the turn signal switch is bad per blitzer454 prior post?
I would say so, yes
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I would say so, yes
I disconnected the two connectors and performed the test, got 12.67 volts at the AAW white feed lead. Plugged the turn signal harness back to test the green lead and the fuse blew when I depressed the brake pedal. At this point I'm assuming a short or other problem with the turn signal switch/harness.
 

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1968 Camaro 454 LS6, Holley 950, Tremec 5 speed, Currie 9 in
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I disconnected the two connectors and performed the test, got 12.67 volts at the AAW white feed lead. Plugged the turn signal harness back to test the green lead and the fuse blew when I depressed the brake pedal. At this point I'm assuming a short or other problem with the turn signal switch/harness.
When you tested the white wire when it was disconnected, you were pressing on the brake pedal? If so, then something in the turn signal switch or the wiring after it is causing the short. I'd start with a new turn signal switch, they aren't big money, and it's unlikely a new wiring harness has a short.
 

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Wylie, TX - Lee
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Plugged the turn signal harness back to test the green lead and the fuse blew when I depressed the brake pedal. At this point I'm assuming a short or other problem with the turn signal switch/harness.
Next, disconnect the connector and do a continuity test on the yellow and green wires on the column side of the connector. One of them is probably shorted to ground. If you find that one is shorted and not the other then you could de-pin the shorted wire from the connector housing and continue the switch test to see if the switch is good or not. Maybe you just pinched a wire to ground somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Next, disconnect the connector and do a continuity test on the yellow and green wires on the column side of the connector. One of them is probably shorted to ground. If you find that one is shorted and not the other then you could de-pin the shorted wire from the connector housing and continue the switch test to see if the switch is good or not. Maybe you just pinched a wire to ground somewhere.
Ok, but I will need to pull the turn signal switch to get at both ends of the lead to do a continuity check. That means removing the steering wheel, etc. Might as well order a new turn signal switch/harness if I'm going in that deep. Besides, the original is 50+ yrs old so it's probably time. Thanks for your help, I appreciate it. I'll let you know how it goes.
 

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Al - Waterloo, Iowa
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Tom, blitzer454 is talking about checking continuity to ground. Not one end of the wire to the other. Disconnect the 2 pieces and check each wire running up the column for ground by probing from the wire end to a known ground. If there is continuity then that wire is grounded inside the column somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Tom, blitzer454 is talking about checking continuity to ground. Not one end of the wire to the other. Disconnect the 2 pieces and check each wire running up the column for ground by probing from the wire end to a known ground. If there is continuity then that wire is grounded inside the column somewhere.
Ok, understand. Electrical is not my skill set.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Tom, blitzer454 is talking about checking continuity to ground. Not one end of the wire to the other. Disconnect the 2 pieces and check each wire running up the column for ground by probing from the wire end to a known ground. If there is continuity then that wire is grounded inside the column somewhere.
Ran the continuity check. Set my meter to the proper setting (readout shows 0L. -open loop). Touched the probes together and got the signal 'beep' and indicator light flash which is the continuity pre-check. Disconnected the harness connectors, ground the 'COM/neg' probe to dash ground and then probed each contact on the steering column turn signal switch 'piano' connector. The meter did not give any readings, stayed at the initial setting of 0L. open loop . What might that indicate?
 

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Al - Waterloo, Iowa
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Tom, That tells me none of the wires are grounded out and that's good. You can check the turn signal switch operation by probing the same connectors in going and out going wires with the turn switch in different positions. Also the hazard operation. Off hand I don't know which wires they are without studying a schematic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Tom, That tells me none of the wires are grounded out and that's good. You can check the turn signal switch operation by probing the same connectors in going and out going wires with the turn switch in different positions. Also the hazard operation. Off hand I don't know which wires they are without studying a schematic.
hmm, I was actually hoping to find the brake leads WERE grounding out. If the leads are good then I don't understand why the fuse blows when the connectors are put back together and the pedal is pushed.
 

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The only thing I can think of is that the dash ground you were using wasn't really a good ground. Did you try touching the red lead to another body ground while leaving the black lead attached to the body ground point just to verify your ground connection is good?

If grounds checks out then the problem must be in the switch assembly itself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
The only thing I can think of is that the dash ground you were using wasn't really a good ground. Did you try touching the red lead to another body ground while leaving the black lead attached to the body ground point just to verify your ground connection is good?

If grounds checks out then the problem must be in the switch assembly itself.
I did the test and the ground is good. I ran another test by reconnecting the two harness pieces and removing all of the brake lights and replacing them with new correct bulbs. After each light was replaced I depressed the brake pedal to see if the fuse would blow. The fuse did not blow. Brakes and turn signals still don't work but the fuse did not blow. I have ordered a new AAW turn signal switch and a new brake light switch. Thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
The only thing I can think of is that the dash ground you were using wasn't really a good ground. Did you try touching the red lead to another body ground while leaving the black lead attached to the body ground point just to verify your ground connection is good?

If grounds checks out then the problem must be in the switch assembly itself.
The new AAW switch arrived (pic attached). Can this be tested by plugging it into the dash side harness and run it through the brakes and turn signal functions prior to mounting it on the steering column?
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Yes, another person on this forum did just that.
Retested my running lights and all work, including side marker lights. Replaced the TS switch with the new AAW piece, still no brake lights. Replaced the brake switch with a new piece, still no brake lights. Tested the dash side harness, white lead (always hot lead) which feeds the TS switch and got a reading of 12.05 volts. Moved to the other side and tested the TS switch side white lead and got a reading of 11.46 volts. Shouldn't both side read the same? Why would the TS switch be sucking up that much voltage? I assume the system needs a full 12 volts operate. Could the flasher module be a problem?
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
so the plot thickens. Went back to do more testing to see where I might be losing voltage between dash side and TS harnesses. I decided to test the hazard switch on the TS switch. When I pushed it in the fuse blew. What might that indicate? How do I test for a problem there?
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
so the plot thickens. Went back to do more testing to see where I might be losing voltage between dash side and TS harnesses. I decided to test the hazard switch on the TS switch. When I pushed it in the fuse blew. What might that indicate? How do I test for a problem there?
I just realized the new brake light I put in was not yet mounted so it was hanging in the grounded position (button all the way out) perhaps that's why the hazards blew the fuse.
 
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