[Gehrkmania]

I have a '67 RS/SS coupe and have lost my brake lights!

Here are the things I've done to try to find the culprit:

Checked the fuses - all seem ok
New brake light switch - tried one, no luck - returned it
Verified that running lights and turn signals light up at rear

I tried putting a jumper wire across the 2 receptacles that the brake light switch plugs into - nothing. Shouldn't that have lit them if everything was working?

I tested for power at the switch too - not sure if I did it right. I put one of the leads into one of the receptacles and grounded the other one and got 12 volts.

Any ideas?

Thank you!

 

[wiskeesour]

inside the trunk the back of the brakelight assy's are some bolts around the assembly attaching the assy to the rear of the trunk. Make sure the are not corroded or loose, may have to tighten them a little. they are the grounds for the system.

 

[SixtyAte]

Also check the bulbs. Dual filament 1157 should be in there. Check that both the filaments are good in each bulb. Take the bulb out and turn it 180 and put it back in. Use a tester and tough the center of the socket while attaching th ground to the socket and to the body while someone steps on the brake.


Kev

 

[Gehrkmania]

I'm not opposed to testing the bulbs except for one thing... My bulb sockets tend to wander out of the housings, so I sealed them in with some silicone sealant. Of course, I can just re-seal them if I take them off, but I'd like to avoid having to mess with that if possible.

Isn't the filament that lights up for the turn signal the same one that lights up when you apply the brakes?

 

[dnult]

Yes Gehrkmania, the turn signals and emergency flashers are the same circuit. I'm thinking your problem may lie there. I'd get a schematic and figure out which wires are which at the semi-circular connector under the column and try shorting wires there to confirm the brake circuit works. Do the emergency flashers light? If so, then the wiring and bulbs in the rear are OK.

 

[Gehrkmania]

I checked the bolts on the brake light housing - everything seems to be ok. There's no rust or corrosion, and everything's tight.

The turn signals and hazards all light up too. Weird!

Am I right in assuming that if I run a jumper across the 2 receptacles that the brake light switch plugs into, it should light the brake lights as though the switch were thrown?

Also - did I test that part of the circuit correctly by putting one test lead in 1 receptacle and grounding the other?

Thanks guys!

 

[wiskeesour]

Pull the kick panel under the dash on the drivers side. Under neath that is the plug that connects the dash harness to the rear harness. You may have a wire broke from there to the rear somewhere. Like under the carpet somewhere...?

 

[Gehrkmania]

Well, I had a little success today! There is a rounded connector behind the dash carrier that had come partially apart on one side. When I snapped it back together I got brake lights, but only on the driver's side.

I tested the flashers to make sure the bulbs still work on both sides and they do. How can I have brake lights on just 1 side?

Thank you!

 

[SixtyAte]

Test the directionals with the brake on and off. A bad flasher will make one light stay off. Check th bulb in the socket and try grounding it better while someone is stepping on the brake. Last, check the wires that run from that side of the car over to the drivers side along the inside trunk,wheel housing and under the rear seat to the front of the car.

Kev

 

[JimM]

It's really got to be the turn signal switch. That where the single signal from the brake light switch gets separated into 2 signals for each side.

 

[dawg]

how about checking for burnt out bulbs?

 

[Gehrkmania]

OK - I assume the turn signal switch is located in the steering column somewhere, probably pretty near the end of the lever? Any advice on tackling that before I dive in?

Thank you!

 

[JimM]

I believe JimL82 posted a teardown of a column once, they are all similar.

The turn signal switch is under the steering wheel. That curved connector is part of it, the wires feed thru the bottom of the column shell. The whole thing pulls out from the top after the steering wheel is off. It can be replaced without removing the column from the car.

I've never actually pulled one completely off, tho I've replaced the "moving part" that the lever attaches too. The hazard switch is part of it too.

If I was pulling mine, I'd find some sort of guide or exploded view to help me along.

 

[Gehrkmania]

Cool - Thanks guys! I will go out and pick up a new turn signal switch and a new switch for my headlights. I think I fried part of it awhile back because the dimmer doesn't work anymore. The dash lights are either all the way on, or all the way off!

Now's a good time to fix that too, since I have the dash carrier off.

Here's a link to that teardown:

http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-content/uploads/2006/01/67-68A&FStdColumnD&R1-31JA06.doc

Thanks again everyone! I will work on it today and post results.

 

[Gehrkmania]

Got the headlight switch replaced fairly easily. When I got to the turn signal switch, I got stuck trying to get the old switch out. I followed the directions as best I could, but could not get the thing out.

I decided that before I broke something I would just try reconnecting the electrical parts and try the brake lights for the hell of it. And yes, of course, they work now. That has happened a few times before with electrical stuff. I'll take something apart, stare at it sternly for awhile and put it back together. I guess maybe some connection that wasn't good is good now.

'Til next time - Thanks!

 

[SixtyAte]

`Its good news that everything is working again.

Kev

 

[JimM]

:hurray: :thumbsup: :beers: