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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I just did some work under the hood and when I hooked everything back up I had no power to the Horn, Fuel Gauge and the Acc that I use for my after market radio. The first thing I checked was the fuse. When I found there is no power to the fuse marked "Gauges". I tried to track it down with no luck. Can anybody give me any suggestions on where under the hood I should be looking. Let me make note that the original charging system had been converted to a single wire system a long time ago, and there is an HEI ignition. There was never any issues in the past. I am afraid that I may have messed with a wire unintentionally.
Thanks
Mike
 

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Mike - The fuse panel is the drivers side of the bulkhead connector on the firewall. Do you have a standard horn relay? If so trace its feed back to the main splice behind the battery and check there is power from the splice and junction block to the horn relay, then up to the bulkhead connector. If the answer is yes, then the issue may be behind the front side of the fuse panel, remove the two screws and unclip it and inspect for broken or loose wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I will try that.
Thank you! :thumbsup:
 

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these might help if you don't have one already... One is a typical Chevy wiring diagram and the other is for a first gen Camaro that has changed alternator type, charging circuit and swapped to HEI ignition and uses a tachometer filter.
 

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Since you didn't say what kind of car you're working on, I'll assume it's a gen 1 Camaro...

The fuse box is fed by a single 12ga (red) wire from the front light harness via the bulkhead connector. The only exception is the INST LPS fuse which is fed from the headlight switch.

It seems very odd that you can have power to some fuses but not all.

For a 69, the ACC spade on the fuse block is protected by the RADIO fuse

The IGN spade is protected by the DIR SIG BACKUP fuse.

To test these fuses, ground your test light (I usually use the park brake bracket), turn the key to ON and test both sides of the fuses. Power to both sides means the fuse is good. Power to one side only means the fuse is bad. Power to neither side means ???.

Also, the fuse clips in the box tend to rust on these old heaps - if yours are they need to be cleaned to shiny metal.

Edit - The horn button on your steering wheel completes the ground side of the circuit, so it's normal to find no power there. The horn gets its power from the horn relay bus - if you have no power there you have big issues
 

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Since you didn't say what kind of car you're working on, I'll assume it's a gen 1 Camaro...

The fuse box is fed by a single 12ga (red) wire from the front light harness via the bulkhead connector. The only exception is the INST LPS fuse which is fed from the headlight switch.

It seems very odd that you can have power to some fuses but not all.

For a 69, the ACC spade on the fuse block is protected by the RADIO fuse

The IGN spade is protected by the DIR SIG BACKUP fuse.

To test these fuses, ground your test light (I usually use the park brake bracket), turn the key to ON and test both sides of the fuses. Power to both sides means the fuse is good. Power to one side only means the fuse is bad. Power to neither side means ???.

Also, the fuse clips in the box tend to rust on these old heaps - if yours are they need to be cleaned to shiny metal.

Edit - The horn button on your steering wheel completes the ground side of the circuit, so it's normal to find no power there. The horn gets its power from the horn relay bus - if you have no power there you have big issues
OK - the part highlighted in red is wrong.

For a 69, the following fuses are fed directly from the dash power-up wire:

CLOCK CTSY LIGHTER
TAIL
STOP HZ

These are fed from the ignition switch:

RADIO
HEATER
WIPER
DIR SIG
GAUGES

INST LPS fed from headlight switch.

The fuses with problems are both fed from the ignition switch. That is where I'd be looking if you had the key on when testing.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Its a 67 Camaro RS. I am sorry I assume that everyone knows what I have :p.
With that being said, the wiring has been modified in some ways during the years by previous owners. So I have to assume its stock then work from there. I will be working on this tomorrow, if I make any headway I will let you all know. Thank you all VERY much for the replies. I hate electrical Gremlins!
 

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Mike when you get a second go to your control panel and fill out your signature block with the details of your ride, then everybody will know what you have. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Mike when you get a second go to your control panel and fill out your signature block with the details of your ride, then everybody will know what you have. :)
:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I just wanted to give everyone who was kind enough to post suggestions a big thank you and an update.
About 6 months ago I sent the car to a local muscle car repair shop to finally fix (after years of not working) the electric headlight doors (An RS). The guy got them up and running with an after market relay set up from Painless. I am very happy with them. Now fast forward. I just finished up some work under the hood. I replaced all the half assed 69 set up and put the engine back to an original looking 67 set up, less the ignition , I continue to use a GM HEI one wire set up. While I was under the dash I bumped the wire the guy set up that goes to the ignition switch that sends power to close the light doors. The guy had spliced 2 wires together and the connector had come loose. while I was messing under there the hot wire hit the radio. It apparently sent the power backwards though the system grounding out the dash items I listed. I pulled out all the wiring and cleaned it up with nice new splices and connectors. I also replaced all the fuses in the box for good measure.
Now everything seems to be working fine.
Thank you all once again for the input and the diagrams!
 

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Glad all is well and thanks for the wrap-up.
 
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