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Discussion Starter #1
so how should we go about this..? i don't know if im overthinking it and confusing myself or what but i figured i should ask for your guys help

the staging controls ask for the orange wire to be applied 12volts via manual/toggle switches, linelock,or transbrake

dads not using a transbrake, is only gonna use linelock for burnouts
and wants to wire up his nos to the button on his shifter so i guess linelock and the staging controls both get a toggle switch of their own.

thing is, how does the staging control work? do you hit it once, to activate it, and then hit it again to deactivate? it only says it is triggered by applying 12 volts to that wire...soooo im assuming you just flip the switch again to not apply 12 volts and d/c it? is there an easier way of wiring that up so you don't have to flip another switch while you're launching and/or in 1st gear climbing up the rpm ladder? what do you guys do about that?

i guess its really just the staging control wiring that confuses me...

is there a way we can wire up the nos and the staging rpm controller to that same button on the shifter? or would that even work right??

and also, TIA..appreciate it!! :)
 

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You could add a 2 or 3 way switch to control which of the devices get the 12 volts coming from the button on the shifter.
But I have no idea how the staging control works. Seems like you would want to hold the button while staged and let go to, well, go.
 

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so how should we go about this..? i don't know if im overthinking it and confusing myself or what but i figured i should ask for your guys help

the staging controls ask for the orange wire to be applied 12volts via manual/toggle switches, linelock,or transbrake

dads not using a transbrake, is only gonna use linelock for burnouts
and wants to wire up his nos to the button on his shifter so i guess linelock and the staging controls both get a toggle switch of their own.

thing is, how does the staging control work? do you hit it once, to activate it, and then hit it again to deactivate? it only says it is triggered by applying 12 volts to that wire...soooo im assuming you just flip the switch again to not apply 12 volts and d/c it? is there an easier way of wiring that up so you don't have to flip another switch while you're launching and/or in 1st gear climbing up the rpm ladder? what do you guys do about that?

i guess its really just the staging control wiring that confuses me...

is there a way we can wire up the nos and the staging rpm controller to that same button on the shifter? or would that even work right??

and also, TIA..appreciate it!! :)
Brian,
If the "staging controller" that you are referring to is actually a "rev limiter" they are normally used in conjuction with a transbrake. However, I see no reason that you shouldn't be able to wire it and the line lock together to the same switch. The "staging controller" or "rev limiter" when used with a transbrake and 2 step module gives you 2 controllable rpm limits.......on the starting line for consistent launches.......and for protection against high rpm's in the event of a missed shift or other malfunction. You might also consider wiring the components mentioned above to relays to minimize the loss of voltage caused by having them all connected to the same voltage source. Here is an excellent link on relay's.

http://www.bcae1.com/relays.htm

David F.
www.firstgens.com
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Brian,
If the "staging controller" that you are referring to is actually a "rev limiter" they are normally used in conjuction with a transbrake. However, I see no reason that you shouldn't be able to wire it and the line lock together to the same switch. The "staging controller" or "rev limiter" when used with a transbrake and 2 step module gives you 2 controllable rpm limits.......on the starting line for consistent launches.......and for protection against high rpm's in the event of a missed shift or other malfunction. You might also consider wiring the components mentioned above to relays to minimize the loss of voltage caused by having them all connected to the same voltage source. Here is an excellent link on relay's.

http://www.bcae1.com/relays.htm

David F.
www.firstgens.com
thank you sir! yeah, it has the RPM engine protection(rev limiter) on one side and the staging RPM on the other...so it has both. he has the rev limiter set real high because he has a full roller cam and all....but we have the staging rpm set even higher because we aren't using it right now obviously...and i think i actually have that orange wire for the staging rpm controls already wired in somewhere so i have to undo that and hook a toggle switch to it or something...

the thing though is that my dad doesn't want to use the linelock at the line to launch, he just wants to foot brake it...the problem with that though is our brakes won't even hold it past 2-3k rpm...he wants to use linelock so he can do burnouts, wire the nos to the button on his shifter, and im not sure what to do about the staging rpm controls...

i still don't know if im overthinking it, but it just seems like alot of work to
hit the nos button off the line, and then hit the staging rpm control toggle switch real shortly after launching so he doesn't start hitting the limiter for the staging asap...

what do ya guys think? lol...thanks again! :)
 

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thank you sir! yeah, it has the RPM engine protection(rev limiter) on one side and the staging RPM on the other...so it has both. he has the rev limiter set real high because he has a full roller cam and all....but we have the staging rpm set even higher because we aren't using it right now obviously...and i think i actually have that orange wire for the staging rpm controls already wired in somewhere so i have to undo that and hook a toggle switch to it or something...

the thing though is that my dad doesn't want to use the linelock at the line to launch, he just wants to foot brake it...the problem with that though is our brakes won't even hold it past 2-3k rpm...he wants to use linelock so he can do burnouts, wire the nos to the button on his shifter, and im not sure what to do about the staging rpm controls...

i still don't know if im overthinking it, but it just seems like alot of work to
hit the nos button off the line, and then hit the staging rpm control toggle switch real shortly after launching so he doesn't start hitting the limiter for the staging asap...

what do ya guys think? lol...thanks again! :)
I would use the line lock on the starting line with the rev limit set just below the rpm that the torque converter overcomes the brakes which you said was between 2-3k rpm. Hurst's website recommends using it on the starting line in addition to burnouts. Just my 2 cents.

David F.
www.firstgens.com
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I would use the line lock on the starting line with the rev limit set just below the rpm that the torque converter overcomes the brakes which you said was between 2-3k rpm. Hurst's website recommends using it on the starting line in addition to burnouts. Just my 2 cents.

David F.
www.firstgens.com
thanks, ya i was thinking that too. imo and yours obviously it seems like the best bet. whats weird is, the stall converter is i dont know, what my dad calls it not broken in yet or something, because if were at a stoplight and the light turns green, it doesnt make us take it up to 4k rpm before we start going either...how do we fix that also? sorry to go somewhat off-topic but thats just another bug we gotta figure out...

the brakes definitely won't hold it up to whatever rpm my dad would really like to launch at i know that...lol they're non-power front disc brakes and drums in back, maybe we should just bleed them more? i dont know.

how is your monster set up? any chance you could throw in a pic or 2?? im gonna be doing all the wiring so im sure it could be good assistance if you don't mind :) lol...thanks everyone so far!!
 

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whats weird is, the stall converter is i dont know, what my dad calls it not broken in yet or something, because if were at a stoplight and the light turns green, it doesnt make us take it up to 4k rpm before we start going either............

the brakes definitely won't hold it up to whatever rpm my dad would really like to launch at i know that...lol they're non-power front disc brakes and drums in back, maybe we should just bleed them more? i dont know.

how is your monster set up? any chance you could throw in a pic or 2?? im gonna be doing all the wiring so im sure it could be good assistance if you don't mind :) lol...thanks everyone so far!!
In regards to your question about torque converter stall,here is a quote from a link & the actual link itself that should explain what you're experiencing while driving on the street.

"Does stall speed effect normal street driving?"

"Generally speaking, normal driving is not adversely effected by converters with stall speeds up to approximately 3000 RPM. The vehicle will begin to roll normally and acceleration will be favorably influenced when higher stall speed converters are used. A very high stall converter ( above 3000 RPM ) would not be satisfactory for street use."

http://www.mojave-green.com/stall_speed_


The only electronics on my Camaro are the MSD 6AL ignition with integrated rev limiter ,distributor and MSD Starter Saver(Ignition retard module). No line lock(yet) or nitrous.

David F.
www.firstgens.com
 

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Discussion Starter #8
In regards to your question about torque converter stall,here is a quote from a link & the actual link itself that should explain what you're experiencing while driving on the street.

"Does stall speed effect normal street driving?"

"Generally speaking, normal driving is not adversely effected by converters with stall speeds up to approximately 3000 RPM. The vehicle will begin to roll normally and acceleration will be favorably influenced when higher stall speed converters are used. A very high stall converter ( above 3000 RPM ) would not be satisfactory for street use."

http://www.mojave-green.com/stall_speed_


The only electronics on my Camaro are the MSD 6AL ignition with integrated rev limiter ,distributor and MSD Starter Saver(Ignition retard module). No line lock(yet) or nitrous.

David F.
www.firstgens.com
cool thanks, so it would be different when you're revv'ing it and holding the brakes or linelock for the stall converter to work properly? what exactly do they mean not satisfactory for street use? lol

if you plan on using the linelock and nitrous, how would you end up setting it up if you mind me asking, if you've thought that far ahead yet? lol thanks again!
 

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A very high stall conv heats up the fluid too much and requires alot of throttle to move the car.

I use the footbrake to hold the car on the line, not LineLoc®, front & rear brakes.
I would set up two switches to operate by thumbs, one on the steerring wheel for nitrous and the other switch on the shifter for LineLoc®.
 

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i use my shifter button for nos and a line loc. i have the thumb buttom wired to a 3 way switch.
if im going to use nos that day i just foot brake the car in the burn out box.
i have 4 wheel disc and the line loc is not going to hold it back. i still can only foot brake it up to 2500 or so with a 3000 stall.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
i use my shifter button for nos and a line loc. i have the thumb buttom wired to a 3 way switch.
if im going to use nos that day i just foot brake the car in the burn out box.
i have 4 wheel disc and the line loc is not going to hold it back. i still can only foot brake it up to 2500 or so with a 3000 stall.
cool, maybe i can do it that way. how does a 3 way switch work?
my cousins friend that works at a shop said to bring it in for a dyno and they can wire it up for a few pennies, but my dad im sure if i mention that which i won't even bother, would say f that. lol
 
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