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Discussion Starter #1
Apparently, at times when trying to crank, I am not getting fire. At first I thought it was a carb problem, but the last time it happened, I checked and was not getting fire thru the plug wires. This problem seems to be worst when I've run the car for awhile and it's hot. Evenso, it will do it when cold as well. I have an HEI dist and replaced the coil, cap, and rotor and still have this problem. If anyone has a wiring diagram I would appreciate it. Also any suggestions as to what may be causing this and how I can figure out, I'll thank you in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thats where I was going to check first. I have meter. How can I check...new ground for me. thx.
 

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set meter to dcv and one rod to ground the other to leads going to the(+) term of the coil. Have some one crank the motor. Meter should read 12v steady.
You may have a bad starter solenoid or loose or bad lead from the solenoid to the coil. Replace the wire if its damaged or appears that the plastic sheathing on it is melted or cut.
 

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Don't be ashamed to use an analog volt meter for this test. They are more tolerant of the flyback voltages that the coil generates.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ok. i checked the dc volts. it is running 12v at "switch on", but drops to 6 to 7 when turning the key to crank. The wire connected to the BAT terminal on the HEI Coil is 12guage and spliced to what appears to be a white braded wire that runs to the fuse panel. I assume this coincides with the BAT label on the fuse panel under the dash. Should I replace that wire and if so, how do I connect it to the fuse panel. Or, is there another location to route the 12g wire from the coil to a switch/run 12v source?

thx
 

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Sounds like you found your problem. HEI takes a full 12 volts and the wire you said was cloth braided is a resistance wire. Try jumping that connection straight to the battery and see what happens. It just might start unless all the cranking has flooded the motor.

What a lot of people do is replace the resitance wire with a solid copper wire for HEI. There are about three different ways to do it.

1. Remove the terminal from the fuse block. Install a new terminal (made by packard electronics) and crimp on a new copper wire. Don't try to dig the old stuff out of the connector and solder a new wire to it. Solder won't stick to the brass and you'll eventually have a bad connection.

2. Cut the resistance wire an inch or 2 from the fuse block connector. Then butt splice a new copper wire to the stub of resistance wire remaining. The short piece of resistance wire won't add a significant amount of resistance to the circuit. Just be sure to properly seal the connector from the weather. I like to crimp a bare butt splice, solder it, pack it full of dielectric grease and heat shrink over it.

3. A third method is a variation of method 2. Insead of just crimping one new copper wire to the butt splice, crimp both the new wire and the old resistance wire to it. Then on the business end of the wires, add two small female bullett connectors. This way you can switch between an HEI and solid state ignition just by plugging into the appropirate wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I cut the resistance wire and greased as suggested. I saw improvement in the voltage, but still had problem. I then replaced the ign module and she cranks up every time. So, as for now, looks like prob solved (knock on wood!). I appreciate all the great advice. It's been most helpful.
 
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