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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Today I replaced my original GM console fuel gauge because it wasn't damping the needle movement when fuel "sloshes" around in the tank. I used an OER replacement. In comparison the OER has internal resistors so you don't use an external one. Just for the sake of it, I measured the external resistor and it measures about 85 ohms. When I opened the package with OER gauge, I noticed the needle positioned up to "max full". It appears the default position is "max full" when ignition power is turned off. As soon as you turn the ignition on to power it, the needle goes where I would expect it to be. I haven't run a tank of gas through yet to confirm it's accuracy but It does dampen the needle movement like it's supposed to. Can anybody using one of these OER gauges confirm theirs also works like this?
 

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I have an OER . It's about 5 or 6 years old now. It goes to empty when the power is shut off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I don’t have the gauges, but am curious how much fuel is in the tank when the needle starts moving a lot.
Without the damping effect of the gauge, the tank down anywhwre less than about 3/4, sloshing of fuel will make the needle react quickly.

Mine is CHQ, but it has an internal resistor as well. It goes to E with the ignition off.
I would have preferred CHQ, sometimes it's hard to know what your getting from a vendor.
 

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Well, at least you know it’s working. You’re filling up near 1/4 tank anyway. If originality isn’t an issue for you, I’m sure someone out there would buy an original gauge. Not me, because I have a 6 pack and no gauges. I did replace the tank sender last month, because it failed after 55 years. I guess they don’t make things to last like they used to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Something that doesn't work the way it's meant to will bother me me, I'll get one that goes to empty when ignition is off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I just got back from a ride buring about 1/3 of a tank of gas and voila! The new gauge now remains at the same spot after I shut off the key. This is the way my original one always worked. I guess it just needed some operating time to "settle in".
 
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I wish I understood what you all are talking about. I have an after market console and gauges in my 68. I got them so long ago I have no idea even where I bought them much less what brand or manufacturer it is. But it has always bugged me. Mostly because the low fuel light starts coming on at 3/4 to 1/2 tank when I go around curves etc. I've never paid much attention to how the gauge actually reads. I can't afford to fill it up anymore anyway :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Now that gas costs more than beer, we should drink not drive.
 
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